Help Making a zero clearance insert for a Delta TS350

[Jacob Snow]

I have a delta ts350 and i was trying to make a zero clearance table insert (since i am trying to make some splines for a steamer trunk). unfortunately the insert in the table is kinda wierd. The a is a little groove all around the top that is like 1/8 x 1/8, plus the area that the screws attach is like 3/8 deep versus the nice 1/2 on some saws. Anyone have any suggestions/recommnedations/experience with making one of these things?

[Mark Pruitt]

I've made zero clearance inserts in the past by rough-cutting the workpiece to just a little larger than the manufacturer's insert, then clamping the manufacturer's insert to the workpiece and using a router with a pilot (flush trim) bit. Then on the TS I cut the kerf for the splitter. If you have a planer, you can plane your stock down to the appropriate thickness. For the leveling screws, use threaded inserts.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

I've made zero clearance inserts in the past by rough-cutting the workpiece to just a little larger than the manufacturer's insert, then clamping the manufacturer's insert to the workpiece and using a router with a pilot (flush trim) bit. Then on the TS I cut the kerf for the splitter. If you have a planer, you can plane your stock down to the appropriate thickness. For the leveling screws, use threaded inserts.

That is just about what I did, but I used double sided tape.

Jacob, I'm not familar with your insert, do you have a pic of it?

Cheers!

PS, I used solid wood, not plywood to do this.

[Jacob Snow]

When i get home i will post a picture. The insert is not a standard one, unfortunately. So i am a little unsure on how to make it so it fits right... I was looking for anyone that has experience with this saw or any of the delta bench top models. This isn't a benchtop model, but it isn't quite a contractor saw either. It is kind of in the middle. Anyone out there have the TS350?

[Alex Shanku]

Since the lip is so thin, wood woudnt work for me. I used bondo sanded flush and the used spot filler to smooth it out. I then put my circular saw blade on the arbor and plunged it up through the insert.

[Jacob Snow]

I am not following your process? did you use wood at all or did you just use the insert that came with the table and just bondo the current opening? Plus have you made a dado insert?

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

OK, now I feel your pain :D

36827

I snatched this from the online manual.

The insert is a thin stamped metal thing, yes?

What I'd do is make a piece of wood that is larger than the opening, overlap as much as you can without hitting anything that would stop you from keeping the steel insert flush.

I'd then mark the hole on the wood, and either make a thin insert that would be glued on top of the piece underneath, or route around the line you marked on the piece underneath.

Does that make sense? :rolleyes:

I thought that Delta sold plastic inserts for this saw, maybe I'm thinking of something else.

Good luck!

[Tim Burke]

I have a delta ts350 and i was trying to make a zero clearance table insert (since i am trying to make some splines for a steamer trunk). unfortunately the insert in the table is kinda wierd. The a is a little groove all around the top that is like 1/8 x 1/8, plus the area that the screws attach is like 3/8 deep versus the nice 1/2 on some saws. Anyone have any suggestions/recommnedations/experience with making one of these things?

I used to have an older version of your saw. I was able to make zci's by using the plate as a guide for a flush trim bit. Cut the wood to a close size, then trim with the flush bit in a router table. Next insert a straight bit with a fence, or a rabbeting bit, and rabbet the edge of the underside of the zci. Finally clear out the additional area with a straight bit (see picture).

It's been a few years since I did this, and I no longer own the saw, so I can't help you with dimensions. But it worked perfect.

Tim

edit - BTW, this picture is from another woodworker who showed me how to make one. Mine was very similar, but I don't have pictures.

[Jacob Snow]

i will give that a try when i get home, whats the big hole you have in your insert? when you route around the edge how you keep the little lip from breaking on the router?

[Tim Burke]

i will give that a try when i get home, whats the big hole you have in your insert? when you route around the edge how you keep the little lip from breaking on the router?

The hole is a finger hole for removing the plate.

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by little lip, but if you are referring to the 1/8" lip, I didn't have any problem. I used a straight bit and a fence. I don't remember exactly, but I'm sure I rabbeted it in several passes. Mine was made out of oak plywood and lasted for several years until I got rid of the saw.

Tim

[Mike Ruane]

edit: whoops, I spent so long typing up that reply that there was time for new 3 posts in between!

I've only played with the demo model at lowes, so I can't speak from experience. But I have a TS350 coming within a few days myself and was planning on using a 1/4" thick piece of polycarbonite (maybe oak?) with a 1/8" rabbet milled around the edge to allow for the lip. Is there any reason you wouldn't think that would work?

The really tricky thing that I'm trying to figure out is adding a splitter. The factory splitter/blade guard on these look to be garbage and I wasn't even considering mounting them.

Thanks (and hello to everyone)
mike

[Jacob Snow]

the splitter isn't bad.

[Mike Ruane]

the splitter isn't bad.

Hrmmm I've had a lot of bad luck with splitters like that on my current jobsite saw. Aligned perfectly one minute, jamming against the wood the next. The one I inspected at lowes was a little beefier than mine, but I'm not too confident it will hold up reliably.

But what do I know, I don't even have the thing yet (shippers are due friday morning, not bad for an order placed w/amazon on sunday night!) :D

[Jacob Snow]

no kidding mine took like 3 weeks from amazon.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Welcome Mike, and congrats on the new saw.

I got rid of the guard on my DeWalt BT744, but I kept the splitter part, I don't use it all the time, but on some cuts, it stays on the saw for sure.

Jacob, looks like you got what you need, when you make up an insert, please post pics!

Cheers!

[Jacob Snow]

I will post them tonight, i finished it last night right before i had to leave to go to fencing practice so i didn't have time to take/post pictures. I made one out of 1/2" birch ply, then another one out of polyethalene (the stuff for cutting boards. The turned out pretty decent, especially for my first time. I did pretty much all of it with my router and bandsaw. Pictures comng this afternoon.

[Jacob Snow]

Here are the inserts that i made. The one on the left is my first one and it is made out of birch plywood. The center one is the factory on that came with the saw and the third one is made from a polyethelene cutting board. THe plywood and poly are both half inch, unfortunately since i don't have four leveling screws it doesn't sit 100% flush, it is about 1/64 or maybe a bit more lower then the table.


http://www.pbase.com/lrdtalon/image/58962843.jpg

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Looks great, you done good, how does it work?

Cheers!

[Jacob Snow]

it works pretty well, although like i said there is a small lip plus with no leveling capabilities, i am not sure if it is 100% square. I am hoping that doesn't affect it much.

[Mike Ruane]

Got the saw in Friday morning as promised by eaglegl, and also made a few out of UHMW:

http://www.ironvulva.com/temp/ts350/zci_on.jpg

and the backside:
http://www.ironvulva.com/temp/ts350/zci_off.jpg

Jacob, you were right about the guard not being *that* bad, but it did bind up on me once this weekend. Even though the metal and the support they use is much thicker than what came on my POS hitachi jobsite, since it doesn't connect to anything close to the saw blade there is still too much wiggle room for my comfort :\

I picked up one of those MJ splitters this weekend and it almost looks like there will be enough room for one even with a 10" blade fully raised. I'll have to take another look to make sure there's no interference, though.

And thanks for the welcome, Stu!

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Looks Good Mike, Enjoy the saw, and play safe! :D

[Adam Slutsky]

Jacob:

I'm wondering how you made out since I also have a TS350 and may need another insert for a dado blade.

Adam