Bevel Cutting Jig - Good Idea?

[John Ellison]

Been lurking a while and really have learned a lot...

I decided it was too much trouble to change the blade angle on my table saw when I wanted to cut a bevel and then get it back to 90.

I decided to build a jig that slides along the fence and has an adjustable "wing" so I can pass a board across the blade at any angle up to about 5 degrees. The wing is hinged and swings up to 90 and lays down on the fence for the other extreme.

It seems to work well enough in the few cuts I've made and with the board clamped to the jig it seems safe. As a newbie, I'm wondering if I am missing something and that this may not be a good idea.

John
Central AL

[Todd Burch]

Hi John!

Anytime you can make a jig that secures your work and you feel safe doing the operation, I consider that (as Martha Stewart would say) a good thing.

Even with the jig, though, I would encourage you to overcome your hesitation with tilting your blade. You should be comfortable enough to command your tablesaw and not be limited by uncertainty of incorrect settings. There should be a 90° stop (or 0° stop) and a 45° stop. Take the time and set these spot-on so you never have to question yourself, or the saw, again. Here's how to do that.

First, to set the 0° stop. Start by assuming that it is perfectly straight and prepare a piece of 2X4 stock for later tests. Cut a piece about 2' long (should be long enough) and joint one edge square and one face flat. Send it through the planer to make the faces smooth and parallel. Then, rip it on your tablesaw to about 3" wide (or just under), assuming you have a 10" blade. Don't worry about ripping at this stage if it's not at a perfect 0° - it doesn't matter for this test. Now, you are ready to start testing your saw.

Draw a line with a pencil or marker down one narrow edge of your 2X4. When you cut it for the tests, you'll be flipping one of the cut pieces over, and marking it will help you to remember how to register the wood.

Tilt your blade some, and then turn it back to hit the stop. Don't slam it against the stop, just firm. You're not looking to strip the allen screw that holds your tilt wheel on or the stop collar in place (if you have one) that holds your adjustment.

With your miter guage set via a framing or try square to 90° (don't get anal, just get it as close as you can, as fast as you can), hold the 2X4 on edge and cut a 6"-8" section off of it on your saw.

Now, flip one of the pieces over and but them back together on your assumably flat tablesaw top. If there is no gap anywhere, you are done and you are set perfect to 90°. If your tilt is off at all, flipping one piece will double the error and any gap will be easy to see. Adjust your stop collar or other stop mechanism until you get no gap. You should use a good crosscut blade for this test.

You can do the same similar-in-concept test with your miter guage or crosscut sled for flat cuts.

In my opinion, it's worth anyone's time to do this. Right now, you are not certain if they are perfect. Once you make certain all is in order and as it should be, the peace of mind is wonderful, knowing you can walk up to the saw, make a cut, and have it dead square in two directions at once. Then, you'll have time to worry about all those other aspects of woodworking! :D

I change my blade tilt, on average, once a day for some reason or another. I trust my saw and my abilities, and I remember that I am working with wood, an imperfect medium. If everything were always perfect every time, there would be no such thing as gap filling glues and wood putty and the like. You'll be much more productive not fussing with yor equipment. Been there, done that! Enjoy!