Shed roof advise

[Joe Meazle]

Hello,
I am a little confused. I am getting ready to put a corrigated metal roof (the cheap wavy stuff) on a small shed thatI have just built. Should I use some type of sealent on the long seams between the sheets? or will this cause problems later if I do? I want to keep things dry in there, as this will be wood storage and home for my air compressor.
Thanks,
Joe

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Joe.....The homes and garages I've seen roofed with metal here .....they didn't seal the seams. They just overlapped the seams and made sure the "bitter end" was to the east or the south depending on the roof direction. The weather fronts here are mainly from the West or the North. I'm sure others with more experience will chime in. Good luck!

[Mark Rios]

You are going to use wiggle board, right? And screws with the rubber washers in the tops of the curves, instead of the bottom?

You can just overlap the sheets 3 or 4 humps. You might start from a direction the is opposite the wind direction when you have storms so that the wind doesn't blow the rain into the seams.

hth

[Randy Meijer]

I think the overlap will be OK 99% of the time; but if you get a freak storm, there could be some leakage. Why ask for trouble? A couple of tubes of sealant isn't going to put you over budget. I'd rather be safe than sorry. Randy

[Dennis Peacock]

Joe,
If the overlap is 2 or 3 ribs and not facing southwest, but northeast or sumpin like that, you should be fine without a sealer. But then again, don't listen to me as I have a steel building that leaks in 8 places. My saving grace is that "I did NOT build the building"...just have to learn about metal buildings and fix the roof leaks.

Metal building roofs have a "seal tape" that the crew puts down on the last ridge before the edge. It's pressure sensitive and is sticky. Goes down quick, cheap and lasts a long time. Don't use silicone sealer as it won't hold up after long exposure to UV light. DAMHIKT!!!

[Tim Morton]

the guy who put my metal rof on my garage used a sort of closed cell foam.

[Joe Meazle]

Thanks fellas,

D, your roof is waht has me a little jumpy. And I know it will be easier to do it right now than try to fix it later.

My roof structure is laid out with the purlins let in so that my rafters are flush. The rafters fall directly under my seams. my purlins are 24"oc on the walls this allowed me to sreew the tin down every foot on the seam. I do have the neoprene washer screws and have been screewin on the high side of the corigation.

I bought some butal caulking designed for metal roofs. I just started wondering if the caulk might cause problems later with rapid metal movement. we can have 40-50 degree tempeture swings in a day here. I rem when I was a youngster being in one of my dad'd barns and hearingthat tin pop as the sun hit it.

Remember this roof will protect most of my wood stash and a few tools (chainsaw, Air compressor, etc.) so I need to get it right.

Joe

[Steve Clardy]

So you're using the old Barn style tin, with lots of ripples?
If so. Seal, cinch er down as best as you can.
Overlap 3-4 ripples.
Expansion, I would only screw down on edges, and in the middle. Not every foot. Think expansion there.
I never had any luck with that stuff. About five years without any sealer, and especially tieing it down with nails, its gonna leak.
But with your rubber washer screws and seal each lap, you oughta be good for a long time.

[Mark Cothren]

Hey Joe,

When I helped Scott put his roof on he used rolls of "bubble gum" to seal the laps. We had to pull up a sheet after he had "gummed" it and I guarantee ya that stuff has some major holding/sealing strength!

If you're interested in that I can find out where to get some (probably on the cheap ;) ).

Mark

[Joe Meazle]

Mark,
Thanks, but the roof is on got all but the last sheet on this evening. Now just a door, a little paint, and some wiring and I will be by to take that AC off your hands. I sure hope she don't leak. I am going to give that slot mortiser a go making the doors.

[Randy Meijer]

.....Metal building roofs have a "seal tape" that the crew puts down on the last ridge before the edge. It's pressure sensitive and is sticky. Goes down quick, cheap and lasts a long time. Don't use silicone sealer as it won't hold up after long exposure to UV light. DAMHIKT!!!

Since the silicone sealant would be between two sheets of the metal roofing where they overlap, I don't see how UV exposure will be a problem??