Swing Big Bits In Handheld Routing Operation

[Howard Rosenberg]

Hi all -

I'll be making a tabletop and I'm casting about for edge treatments.

There are a few LV bits that I like for the effect I'm looking for.

BUT -
They're in the neighbourhood of 2 1/2" (and slightly more) wide.

I KNOW bits this size should be used in the table, but this tabletop will:
- be approximately 18x60 inches
- have radiused corners

How PRACTICAL is it to do this on the table?
The radiused corners are an essential ingredient.
Square corners wouldn't pose this problem.

BTW, I usually determine the practicality/safety of project to the table vs router to the project depending on the project's size....

Thank you.
Howard

[Charlie Plesums]

I would not even consider mounting a bit that large in a hand held router.

Should not be a problem if it the router is mounted in the table, and can run slow enough for the larger bit. If the bit has a guide bushing, then you could still round the corners in the router table

[Ron Robinson]

If you have no table or your table is small you could always make a "temporary" table large enough to give the tabletop support during the cutting operation. I would be terrified to use a 2 1/2" bit hand held.

Ron

[Mark Pruitt]

My suggestion is that you find a way to keep the piece stable as you run it through the router table. Use work supports placed strategically to hold it up through the entire pass; if you have a friend or family member available you might even get their help. But I would not use a bit that size in a handheld router. Way too dangerous for me.

[Dave Richards]

Using a bit that big in a handheld router would be risky but in this case I might consider it too. That table top is pretty long.

Thoughts that come to mind about doing this though include making very light passes; lighter than you might take with smaller bits. I would consider some way to remove the bulk of the waste that don't involve that large bit so there only need to be a couple of passes made.

I think I would make a larger auxillary base for the router to give it a wider stance. I would make the base long enough to extend well over the surface of the table top.

Make the end grain cuts first and back up the exit side with a scrap to prevent tear out.

Be careful and good luck.

[Kurt Forbes]

make a temporary table with casters that you can attach the router to and move the mobile table to do your routing.

just an idea

[Byron Trantham]

Don't even think about running a bit that big without a table of some sort. It's just too dangerous. Let us know what you eventually did.

[Jesse Cloud]

Can you route your edge treatment before the top is glued up? Then there should be no problem using the router table.

[Steve Clardy]

Bit bit. Use a big router. More control.
I have a couple of whiteside edging bits that are 2 1/2" bits.
Used in a PC 7537 D-handle. Oversized subbase.
Best to take three passes. Less chipout [if if occurs]

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

a TWO INCH (plus) cutter in a hand held router?? ?? ??
Oh My that is out there.

Hmmm I can't think of a safe way to do that. I mean It is exactly the sort of thing I might try but - - - - -.

Here is what I would do if I were crazy enough to try it:
I'd feed the cutter in and down using very tiny progressive bites using both the depth stop on the router and a bolted or clamped on fence (the fence either on the router or the work.

And I'd have to experiement with the best spindle speed to get the least hammer-effect/decent-cut possible.
Carbide might be your friend here as it can take brutally high speeds. Higher speeds will knock you around less.


Unless you control BOTH the in-feed and the down-feed you can't control the bite. However, when you are cutting the full face of the bit ( and you must eventually) it's going to be a bear to hang on to the router.

God bless you as you take this noble task on and don't forget the supplimental insurance.

[Chris Barton]

As many have said, using big bits in a handheld router is a receipe for disaster, and possible serious injury.

[Steve Clardy]

As many have said, using big bits in a handheld router is a receipe for disaster, and possible serious injury.

Maybe to some, but not to all Chris. [not here to argue the point] but, tell me how to profile edge a 1 1/4"x 60"x 144" solid oak table top in a router table:confused: :confused:

[Lars Thomas]

I would chuck it up and do it hand-held. I guess I just don't see the danger in tackling this job hand held. Lars

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Maybe to some, but not to all Chris. [not here to argue the point] but, tell me how to profile edge a 1 1/4"x 60"x 144" solid oak table top in a router table:confused: :confused:
Hand planes come to mind. However I'd probably give the router first crack. I've done riskier things. Hell's bells this doesn't even involve getting the body parts in the same proximity as the cutter so long as the user doesn't drop it on his leg or foot.
Even that is preventable if the user knows his limitations. He can cover himself and the floor with thin ply or something so if he does drop the tool it will only wreck whatever it hits and itself.

If the user can handle a medium size chainsaw I don't see him dropping the router. That leaves personal comfort. It will make noise and vibrate like hell. Hang on like hell and all should be well.
AFLAC

[Chris Barton]

Maybe to some, but not to all Chris. [not here to argue the point] but, tell me how to profile edge a 1 1/4"x 60"x 144" solid oak table top in a router table:confused: :confused:

Hi Steve,

I was answering in the spirit of the question that's asking about a 2.5" bit. If we are talking about a 1" roundover or ogee, that's a different manner but would you want to use a 2.5 by hand?

[Chris Giles]

A router bit of this size can be run safely with the proper precautions and a good degree of experience with a router. I would make a router base large enough to rest my left elbow on as I feed the router around the table. Dial the speed down to a slower, more managable cutting rate, and make sure the cutter is razor sharp. The base should be something like 2' x 1', and made of 3/4" baltic birch or mdf with clearance for sight line and dust egress. The router should be heavy duty (3 hp) and as mentioned, variable speed. Figure on routing each edge of the table as a seperate operation, so clamping it securely to the table will be simple. Wear dust mask and hearing protection, and bare hands, please-gloves won't help you here. The base should slide easily across the table surface, and you start the cut about six inches out from the corner closest to you, carefully rounding the far corner in a series of small bites and feathering in to the previous cut that awaits six inches past the corner. And remember, when done with the cut, don't set the thing down until it stops completely; Just stand there holding it a comfortable distance until it stops. Good luck!

[Steve Clardy]

Hi Steve,

I was answering in the spirit of the question that's asking about a 2.5" bit. If we are talking about a 1" roundover or ogee, that's a different manner but would you want to use a 2.5 by hand?


Sure. Understand. I was talking about a 2.5 bit. I have done it. Will do it again. As above in one of my posts, use a heavy router, oversize sub base.

Little edit there on the oversize base. Was supposed to be----sub base.

Now a bit bit tends to sound like a small airplane going over-------:eek:
I'll find a pic of a couple tables I did with a 2.5 bit.:)

[Mike Cutler]

Personally. I would do it on a table, even if I had to make a table to specifically do that cut. I'm not sure what Steve means by oversize base. I have seen a Table Edge bit in a handheld router used before. This bit is about 3"-3 1/2" in diameter. It was done as follows;

An oversized base of 3/4" MDF was made for the router There was an approximate 1 " hole pre bored in the center. The router bit was lowered in incremental steps through the MDF until the pilot bearing was exposed. In incremental steps the router was lowered further through the MDF and into the table edge. It created a ZCI of sorts, right at the point that the router bit met the table edge. It also more completely supported the bit and the router. As the router bit was lowered it cut through the MDF, and the table and created the edge.
I remember watching the guy make what seemed to be at least a 1/2 dozen passes in incremental steps. It also took him about 45 minutes to complete the task.
The work was being done on an existing built in bar, in a nite club that was being renovated. No way to take the bartop off and do it on a table.
It can be done. Think the job through completely, and maybe do a practice run or two.
If it doesn't feel right, don't do it.

[Bruce Page]

A router bit of this size can be run safely with the proper precautions and a good degree of experience with a router. I would make a router base large enough to rest my left elbow on as I feed the router around the table. Dial the speed down to a slower, more managable cutting rate, and make sure the cutter is razor sharp. The base should be something like 2' x 1', and made of 3/4" baltic birch or mdf with clearance for sight line and dust egress. The router should be heavy duty (3 hp) and as mentioned, variable speed. Figure on routing each edge of the table as a seperate operation, so clamping it securely to the table will be simple. Wear dust mask and hearing protection, and bare hands, please-gloves won't help you here. The base should slide easily across the table surface, and you start the cut about six inches out from the corner closest to you, carefully rounding the far corner in a series of small bites and feathering in to the previous cut that awaits six inches past the corner. And remember, when done with the cut, don't set the thing down until it stops completely; Just stand there holding it a comfortable distance until it stops. Good luck!
Howard, Chris gives excellent advice. I’ve used large panel bits handheld with my 7539.
Slower RPM, light cuts and a high awareness of what you’re doing before you do it.

[tod evans]

howard, in the end, if you feel uncomfortable running a tool, regardless of what that tool is, don`t do it! there are some of us here who do things with routers that most folks shouldn`t do.....use your own common sence and listen to the little voice in your head.....02 tod

[Lars Thomas]

I think Tod said it best.