Table saw work station/DC

[Jan Williamson]

I am in the planning stages of a tablesaw workstation/outfeed cabinet. I am working on the cyclone system, I haven't got the ducting layout plan in stone yet, but I was hoping for some design ideas before I cut the pipe. I am thinking about enclosing my craftsman mobile based tablesaw. The tilting arbor/motor combo with the plastic 2' inch dust port creates a challenge to adapt to a 6' port. I looked threw some threads, found the "tablesaw with a mustache" and thought that would be a good solution for the top side, but I am not sure about underneath. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
36123

[Steve Clardy]

Maybe enclose the back with 1/2" plywood, leaving a slot for belt.

[Greg Sznajdruk]

Have a look at this post it may be what your looking for.

Greg
http://www.canadianwoodworking.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=12013

[Tom Ruflin]

Jan,

Here (hopefully) are a couple of pics a Delta Contractors saw I had set up for dust collection. The stand for the saw had an angled metal shelf forhte dust to fall onto and then slide out the back onto the floor. I enclosed the sides of the stand and back with lauan plywood and put in a 4" dust port. I also used foam rubber to seal off the gaps between the saw top and the cabinet around the saw and as you can see I added a piece lauan to the back of the saw which was cut out to clear the belt even when the blade was tilted at 45 degrees. It all worked pretty well and would have worked even better with a better dust collection system (I have a 1 1/2 hp Jet running through 4" ducts). PM me if you have any questions. A friend of mine built a box out of mdf to put under the saw to accomplish the same thing.

[Keith Beck]

Jan,

Looks like you have the same Craftsman TS I do. I used some thin paneling to enclose the back that's held on with rare earth magnets. I also put the same thing in the bottom that has a toilet flange that's connected to flexible DC hose with an elbow. If I had to do it all over again, I'd put some angled pieces in that direct the dust towards the DC opening. Right now, the dust still piles up in the corners. I think if I plugged up some of the openings around the top of the saw, it would work better. I did notice some improvement when I removed the plastic elbow that's connected to the dust shroud inside the saw. It would clog with shavings frequently. It's only held on with one screw.

BTW, I replaced the saw's original belt with a link belt and noticed a marked improvement. It's almost like having a whole new saw.

Keith

[Greg Narozniak]

there was an article in Fine woodworking a few years back (I have the issue @ home if you would like to know which one it is) that covered exactly what you are looking for.

Let me know and I can dig it up

[Ken Shoemaker]

Jan,
I have a similar set up (Delta Contractors Saw). I simply:

I lifted the saw off the base, inserted a 1/4" plywood spacer with a 4" (or 6") hole cut in it.
I then glued a 4" DC connector thru the hole with contact cement.
Hooked it to the DC and enjoyed the success.I left the back of the saw wide open and it works fine, when I remember to turn the darn DC on of course!!! :eek:

Good Luck... Ken

[Jan Williamson]

Sounds easier than I thought. I though I was going to have to build a monstrosity around it.:o I like the magnet idea, because when you go to tilt the blade, you can easily take the back off. I'll try it first without a back though. I saw those toilet flanges at the hardware store and couldn't bring my self to buy one. I'm gettin' one now;) . I did a search the other day, and I think I saw someone had attached one to the side of a bandsaw. Or at least it looked like one.