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View Full Version : fence parallelism...how parallel do you want it?



Don Morris
04-09-2006, 8:21 AM
Now that I have my new 1023 together, I put my newly acquired TS aligner Jr. on the miter track to the blade and sure enough it was just enough off that I needed to loosen the table top and tweek it. Then I went to the fence and looked at it. It was considerably off. In reading the Shop Fox instructions they recommend 1/64" lead adjustment. With the TS aligner Jr. for the first time I have the capability to adjust it to almost dead on parallel if I wanted it that way. I've seen the recommendation "thickness of a dollar bill" to "exactly parallel". What's the consensus here?

Brian Hale
04-09-2006, 8:56 AM
I get mine as close to perfect as i can, perhaps just a hair wider on the outfeed end. It really isn't That critical.

Is the surface of your fence perfectly flat?

I also suggest you make sure the fence is perpendicular to the saw top before you adjust the parallelism.

Brian :)

tod evans
04-09-2006, 8:59 AM
don, i toe mine out the thickness of the first business card out of my wallet...02 tod

Steve Clardy
04-09-2006, 10:56 AM
I too toe mine out.

Gary Keedwell
04-09-2006, 11:29 AM
I try to get my fence as parallel as possible. I have a .005 bow in my Beis. fence. It starts on beginning of fence on zero, bows out to .005 in the middle and ends in the same zero at the far end. Haven't had any problems.

Gary K.

Rick Schubert
04-09-2006, 11:36 AM
I shoot for parallel, but toe it out .001 just to make sure it isn't toeing in. Does that make sense?

Rick

Barry O'Mahony
04-09-2006, 3:23 PM
A dead-parallel as possible, as long as you're sure it is not toed-in. If you deliberately toe it out, the outfall section of the pice being cut ends up being pushed into the rear part of the blade, and against the splitter. Maybe bad things don't happen if the amount of toe-in is small, but it makes it harder to feed the piece.

If you are worried about a pice getting pinched between blade and fence on a particular cut, install a partial auxiliary fence, one that doesn't extend to the rear area of the blade..

Robert E Lee
04-09-2006, 9:02 PM
If you are ever to use the fence on the outher side of the blade, you want the fence as parallel as you can get it.
Bob

Hoa Dinh
04-09-2006, 11:13 PM
When I bought my Jesada CGP2000 a while back, the instructions said the fence should be parallel to the blade. I have been keeping my saws and fences that way ever since.

Note that "toe-in" on one side of the fence means "toe-out" on the other side.

Bruce Page
04-09-2006, 11:28 PM
I toe mine out about 1/64".

Mark Singer
04-10-2006, 12:05 AM
I adjust the fence wider at the back of the blade...about a scosh or 2:rolleyes:

scott spencer
04-10-2006, 5:28 AM
Most blade manufacturers suggest a slight toe out. Because it's darn near impossible for us to know if the fence is exactly straight and that our settings are exactly parallel, it's better to error on the side of caution with a minute toe out...about a business card thickness.

lou sansone
04-10-2006, 5:58 AM
I toe my out the thickness of a 1000 dollar bill

lou

Don Morris
04-10-2006, 7:01 AM
Lou,

I don't have a $1000.00 handy, would you send me yours so I can align my fence? Thanks!

Guess I'll shoot for about as parallel as possible...or just .001" out. That's just a "tweek" on the Allen Wrench.

Don M

Bill Lewis
04-10-2006, 7:16 AM
Ok, completely off topic, but (a very long time ago) I used to know a guy who carried around two $1000 bills and a $500 bill in his wallet. I thought he was crazy for doing so.

Cliff Rohrabacher
04-10-2006, 7:22 AM
Ok, completely off topic, but (a very long time ago) I used to know a guy who carried around two $1000 bills and a $500 bill in his wallet. I thought he was crazy for doing so.

I knew a nold italian guy who always carried a was of cash like that. It was an old school thing. He saus he was able to make a purchase if he felt soo inclined. I think he used it to impress his buddies when playing Bachie Ball.

Thomas Canfield
04-12-2006, 10:11 PM
I set my fence parallel as possible to the milled slots in the table as the first step, and then make sure the blade is then parallel to the slots and fence. A trick I picked up is to listen to a board exiting a raised blade and see if the back of the blade is dragging or following the curf with the fence on both sides - no noise, blade and fence are parallel.

Per Swenson
04-12-2006, 10:32 PM
Hey Everybody,

Clicky here, 1/2 way down there are two posts and how to
do it with limited blade burn. little thicker then $1000.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=29246&highlight=feeler+guage

Per