Todd Burch
08-19-2003, 11:31 PM
I've been painting white gloss alkyd enamel today, and as I've been painting, I've been thinking about what I was doing (a good thing, I guess!)
I have a lot of crown and casing to install, so I figured I would pre-paint it, then touch up the nail holes and seams after I nailed it up. I started with finger-jointed pine. Yesterday morning I sprayed Kilz primer with my conventional gun with 2 quart remote pot. I went on pretty good straight out of the container - no real issues.
This morning, I went to spray the enamel, undiluted, and I got more texture than atomization. I'm using an Asturo G70 gun with a 1.4mm tip set. My pot pressure was about 12 lbs and air pressure varied from 35 to 65, but I still couldn't get good atomization.
I added a splash of paint thinner to the paint, and while it was noticeably thinner, it still did not atomize well, (it was better), but it also left hundreds of small pin-hole like craters everywhere, as it did not flow out well.
By then, I was fed-up and poured the 2 quart cup worth of thinned enamel into a bucket and started brushing. It did brush well though, as I typically try to brush this stuff undiluted. The trim will definately need a second coat though.
So, my question(s). I know that adding paint thinner will thin the paint. I have also read that adding linseed oil will help - but what will it help with? Would adding boiled linseed oil help with spraying? If I had a viscosity cup, what cup and how many seconds should enamel be at to spray? I could have got my airless out, but cleaning it is such a hassle for small jobs. What would you have done to get this 170 linear feet of moulding painted? Also, let's pretend I was in a hurry to get two coats on in one day. Could I add japan drier, and how much? What are the consequences? Yellowing?... even though this paint will yellow on its own anyway? Should I always dilute oil based when brushing? How long should I have to wait to sand between coats? Even this evening, it's still a little tacky.
Thanks, Todd.
I have a lot of crown and casing to install, so I figured I would pre-paint it, then touch up the nail holes and seams after I nailed it up. I started with finger-jointed pine. Yesterday morning I sprayed Kilz primer with my conventional gun with 2 quart remote pot. I went on pretty good straight out of the container - no real issues.
This morning, I went to spray the enamel, undiluted, and I got more texture than atomization. I'm using an Asturo G70 gun with a 1.4mm tip set. My pot pressure was about 12 lbs and air pressure varied from 35 to 65, but I still couldn't get good atomization.
I added a splash of paint thinner to the paint, and while it was noticeably thinner, it still did not atomize well, (it was better), but it also left hundreds of small pin-hole like craters everywhere, as it did not flow out well.
By then, I was fed-up and poured the 2 quart cup worth of thinned enamel into a bucket and started brushing. It did brush well though, as I typically try to brush this stuff undiluted. The trim will definately need a second coat though.
So, my question(s). I know that adding paint thinner will thin the paint. I have also read that adding linseed oil will help - but what will it help with? Would adding boiled linseed oil help with spraying? If I had a viscosity cup, what cup and how many seconds should enamel be at to spray? I could have got my airless out, but cleaning it is such a hassle for small jobs. What would you have done to get this 170 linear feet of moulding painted? Also, let's pretend I was in a hurry to get two coats on in one day. Could I add japan drier, and how much? What are the consequences? Yellowing?... even though this paint will yellow on its own anyway? Should I always dilute oil based when brushing? How long should I have to wait to sand between coats? Even this evening, it's still a little tacky.
Thanks, Todd.