scratches on my pens

[Stephen Hibbs]

I had lots of scratches on the first few pens I made. However, I have not had this issue on the last few pens I've made. I think this is because I no longer use 60 grit paper on it, and am just more careful with the gouge. Is this why or is it something else? What is the toughest grit you guys use? I use 100 grit at first now, or just jump straight to the 220, but then it leaves some tearout, how do I find the middle ground? Is tearout unavoidable?

Also, a large percentage of the blanks I have turned developed cracks at some point on their lengths after turning, why would this be?

[Chris Barton]

usually, scratches are due to switching differences between grits with too large a difference. Like going from 60 grit to 150 grit. I have had it happen plenty of times but, now i have learned my lesson.

[Tom Stover]

I start at 150 and go to 220 and I don't skip a grit size up to 600. I then use MM to 12000.

[Ron Ainge]

a good way to get rid of the sanding marks on you pen is to stop the lathe after each grit of sand paper that you use and sand with the grain. Then go to the next grit and do the same thing. You will be surprised how different the final sanding will look.

[David Fried]

I agree with all the above! In addition, I wipe down the wood with rag, barely damp with mineral spirits, between different grits to get rid of courser dust.

Sanding with the grain and not switching grits until you have gotten rid of the scratches caused by that grit really seems to make a difference.

[Corey Hallagan]

I start at 150 on my pens. First remember that most of the time you are sanding against the grain. Imagine you did that on a table top! After each grit and starting with 150, I shut the lathe off and sand the pen barrels with the grain while turning the wheel by hand . Then I take denatured alcohol and wipe the blanks down. Next 220--- sand with lathe on, shut it off, sand length wise, wipe down with DNA, on to 320 and repeat the process up to at least 600 grit. You should end up with a very fine surface with no scratches.

Corey

[Jim Bell]

I use denatured alcohol to wipe my blanks through the sanding process. It evaporates faster and doesn't interfere with my friction polish finish.
Jim

[Andy Hoyt]

And just to get in down on "paper" the proper progression of grit size is to increase by one half of the previous grit value.

eg: 80 to 120 to 180 to 270 to 405

Of course, I've never seen 270 or 405 grits, but you can get close.

[Mac McAtee]

I posted this once and it didn't show up, if it turns up twice, I'm sorry for posting twice.

I usually start sanding with 320 grit and progress to 1500 grit one step at a time. Stop the lathe between grits and sand length wise with the same grit. Wipe the blank between grits.

Occasionally I get a piece of wood that doesn't turn smooth and I then start with 220 grit. You have to pay attention to the finish size of the pen when you go to a courser grit, it will turn undersize in a heartbeat.

Attached is a photo of a Cherry Burl Barron sanded with the above method.

[Frank Fusco]

I start at 220 grit and work up to 12000 in micro mesh. Usually stop lathe and sand lengthwise after every 3rd or 4th grit. Also allow my sanding sealer to cure then use last three MM grits to sand that also doing lengthwise. Putting a finish on a pen is the most time consuming part of the whole pen making process.