aftermarket miter gauge

[Mark Pruitt]

I've been swimming the Creek looking at recent talk about aftermarket miter gauges, and have found some valuable discussions. Don't want to rehash what's already been said, but there is one issue I would like to raise, particularly about the ones with longer extensions (e.g. the new ones by Kreg and Jessem to mane only two). How easy is it to switch from the left slot on the TS to the right, and vice versa? Can the extension be slid in the "opposite" direction? I think that this would weigh heavily in my choice of a MG. If no one makes such a thing, I might think about rigging one of my own. Any thoughts/comments on this? TIA!
Mark

[Ron Robinson]

Mark,

I have an Incra 1000SE and can move it left to right with no problems. Just loosen some screws and slide the fence. I do have to recalibrate the scale, but that is easy.


Ron

[Tim Solley]

I have the Incra 1000SE too. I keep the wrench that came with it in my tool belt so that when I switch miter tracks, I grab it and loosen two screws and slide it over. The whole operation takes less than ten seconds. Love it.

Tim

[Dave Mapes]

I have the kreg and all you need do is loosen 2 knobs, slide to desired location and tighten knobs to hold in place. Very simple and without tools. I also not not have to readjust unless I am changing angles.

[Hoa Dinh]

I have the Incra 1000SE too. I keep the wrench that came with it in my tool belt so that when I switch miter tracks, I grab it and loosen two screws and slide it over.
Why, Tim? You won't have to "grab it" if you do this:

[Mark Pruitt]

Why, Tim? You won't have to "grab it" if you do this:

Hoa,
Maybe I'm a little dense, or maybe I just need to take a coffee break and re-boot my brain, but I don't understand what you're saying to Tim in the picture. :confused: :confused: Obviously I'm not familiar enough with the Incra gauge.:o
Mark

[Hoa Dinh]

Hoa,
Maybe I'm a little dense, or maybe I just need to take a coffee break and re-boot my brain, but I don't understand what you're saying to Tim in the picture. :confused: :confused: Obviously I'm not familiar enough with the Incra gauge.:o
Mark
Hey Mark,

Sorry for being too terse.

Tim said that he had to use a wrench to loosen the two bolts on the Incra 1000SE. The bolts are used to attach the fence to the protractor.

What I meant to say is that if the two bolts were replaced by two T-knobs, as I did with my miter gauge, there would be no need to use the wrench ("grab it") any more.

In fact, the fence extension on the 1000SE also uses Allen screws, which I replaced with T-knobs. That makes adjusting the 1000SE almost toolless. "Almost" because I haven't figured out an easy toolless way to attach the MDF subfence to the fence yet.

It has nothing to do with your brain, but you still can take a coffee break now :D

Somewhat related to your original question: Check the length of the miter bar (not just of the fence) before committing to a miter gauge. I like the 1000SE, but I wish the miter bar was longer. It is only 18" while many others have 22" miter bar.

If you are in need of a setup gauge, Hartville Tool is including a free Incra V27 with their X-Point Power Tool Set-Up Gauge (SKU #78401). I've never used the X-Point myself but that does sound like a good deal.

Also, you didn't mention Rockler miter gauge. But IMHO, it has a serious design flaw. Stay away from it.

[Dick Bringhurst]

I too have the Kreg. Its easy. No tools. Dick B.

[Dev Emch]

I've been swimming the Creek looking at recent talk about aftermarket miter gauges, and have found some valuable discussions. Don't want to rehash what's already been said, but there is one issue I would like to raise, particularly about the ones with longer extensions (e.g. the new ones by Kreg and Jessem to mane only two). How easy is it to switch from the left slot on the TS to the right, and vice versa? Can the extension be slid in the "opposite" direction? I think that this would weigh heavily in my choice of a MG. If no one makes such a thing, I might think about rigging one of my own. Any thoughts/comments on this? TIA!
Mark

Dont forget the home brew options. I am currently putting an order together to have a number of castings poured for a reproduction oliver #2 mitre gage. By changing out the beam (a 30 second operation) I can run this on any table saw made. By attaching the horseshoe to a second gage, I now have a niffy cross cut sled. I am doing this at basicly cost and I am using an old amish family foundary to get the iron. If interested, let me know so I can adjust the number of castings ordered.

[Reg Mitchell]

how's that project comming by the way Dev......:D

[Tim Solley]

Hey Hoa,

I was a little lost after looking at your post myself. I like the use of the T knobs though. I think I'll have to do that myself. Thanks for the idea.

Tim

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Dont forget the home brew options. I am currently putting an order together to have a number of castings poured for a reproduction oliver #2 mitre gage. By changing out the beam (a 30 second operation) I can run this on any table saw made. By attaching the horseshoe to a second gage, I now have a niffy cross cut sled. I am doing this at basicly cost and I am using an old amish family foundary to get the iron. If interested, let me know so I can adjust the number of castings ordered.

That is a hell of a good idea.

Every single production miter jig I have seen or held that wasn't made for machines such as Northfield or old iron Olivers etc., are (in my not so humble opinion) wimpy skinny lightweight little pieces of fluff. I'd look at them and it seemed I could watch them bend from the stress of supporting their own weight.

At the time I made my heavier one I was all-a-gaga over 2" thick Maple Butcher Block furniture (circa late 1970's) and just had to make a living room full. The first time I put it a slab of that on my TS, the factory miter fence failed.

That got me to throw mine away and replace it with one I made from 5/8" thick cold rolled steel. I cut the U channel to run to 60 deg instead of 45, I stamped the degree locations but didn't install position lock pins. Then I threw it on a surface grinder to get it dead true.

Over the years (30+ of 'em) I have drilled and tapped it to take a variety of bolts for holding - whatever. From it I hang a 3'*2" length of laminated maple as the fence. The only down side has been that it weighs more then me. However, when I lock it in place, it won't change no matter what I do to it.

So I heartily submit that quite possibly the Cast units that Dev Emch is offering may be the best thing since sliced smoked salmon. At least if you do heavy work.

[Tom Pritchard]

Mark, you should also consider the Woodhaven gauge. It's extremely versatile and accurate. They state:


Factory calibrated and square out of the box. Unlike others, you never have to square our gauge. All settings are accurate to within 1/30th of a degree or 2 minutes.
The miter gauge head is square to the miter bar vertically, unlike other gauges.
100% machined from aluminum and steel, hand assembled and checked with dial indicators for accuracy.
A precision brass indexing knob inserts through the miter head and screws into the miter bar. Precise stops at 0, 10, 15, 22-1/2, 30, 45, 60, and 90º. The most used angles of 0, 22-1/2, 30 & 45º have bronze bushings.
Has stainless steel pointer and a parking spot for brass indexing knob when setting angles without stops.
The head turns a full 90º each way. Cuts both obtuse (greater than 90º) and acute (less than 90º) angles. Lets you cut tapers and shallow angles.
Precision machined steel miter bar is 3/8" thick x 3/4" wide. Has adjustable plugs to control fit of bar in miter slot. Available in two lengths.
Bar has two removable T-slot washers, one front and one back, for stability.
Never has to be reassembled when moved between the left and right miter slot, unlike some other gauges.
Optional miter gauge fence extrusions are available in various lengths and are taller and stronger than others.
Many accessories available to maximize your miter gauges potential
I bought one after being disappointed by an Osbourne EB-3 gauge, and I couldn't be more happy with it! Here's their website:

http://www.woodhaven.com/detail.aspx?ID=2057

Good luck!

[Ken Garlock]

I bought an Incra 3000SE for the left side of the table, and an Incra V27 for 90s on the right side of the table. This way I can keep the 300SE calibrated right up to the edge of the blade. On the V27 I mounted a piece of poplar and the cut the end off by sliding the V27 past the blade.

[Jim DeLaney]

Mark, you should also consider the Woodhaven gauge. It's extremely versatile and accurate. ...

I agree. I've had the Woodhaven for about five years. It's the most accurate miter gauge I've ever had, seen, or used. A little pricey - the kit with some flip down stops, etc. is just under $200 now. Was only about $125 when I got mine - but like I said, that was about five years ago.

Great piece of precision equipment!

[Frank Pellow]

Mark, I can answer your question "How easy is it to switch from the left slot on the TS to the right, and vice versa?" about the JessEm Mite-R-Excel since I bought that miter gauge about a month ago and did use it on both sides of the blade.

The answer is: it is possible but it is neither easy nor fast.

The unit comes set up to operate on the left side of the blade and there is no mention at all in their documentation about using the gauge on the right side. It took me about an hour to figure out how to reconfigure the Mite-R-Excel for the right side and then to move to extension, reverse the ruler, etc. It worked OK on the right side (if you like reading ruler upside down ;) ) , but I decided to give the left hand side a try. This time it took about 15 minutes to change things. I think that I could get that down to about 10 minutes but, since I am now happy operating on the left side, I don't plan to do so. Should I absolutely need a gauge on the right side for some operation, I will revert to the factor gauge (which, on my General 650 is quite good).

By the way, I do highly recommned the JessEm Mite-R-Excel. But, not if you plan to switch it back and forth on either dside of the blade.

[Richard Neel]

I have the 1000SE as do many other here. I like this mitre gauge but I have have learned, after a little use now, that I don't care for the way the flip stop works. The flip stop slides along the top of the gauge but there is an indexed series of very small teeth that it locks into when you tighten the thumbscrews. I have found that if I am trying to be very accurate with a setting that I sometimes struggle getting the flipstop exactly where I want it. I wish the 1000SE didn't have this indexing feature.

I really do like this mitre gauge however. It is nicely made and accurate.

[Hoa Dinh]

The flip stop slides along the top of the gauge but there is an indexed series of very small teeth that it locks into when you tighten the thumbscrews. I have found that if I am trying to be very accurate with a setting that I sometimes struggle getting the flipstop exactly where I want it. I wish the 1000SE didn't have this indexing feature.
You can have it both ways, Richard. The flipstop itself has the indexing feature. But there is no indexing where the flipstop is attached to the miter gauge fence. Just loosen the two nylon knob screws and slide the stop to wherever you want. Or you can adjust the rod(s) at the feet of the stop.

[Richard Neel]

But there is no indexing where the flipstop is attached to the miter gauge fence.

I guess I don't quite understand. My 1000SE has the black plastic indexing stuff all the way along the mitre gauge fence and on the back of the sliding flipstop mechanism. When you tighten the thumbscrews, the flipstop aligns itself based on this indexing - no way to get around this that I can see. I know I can use the metal rods but I don't like fussing with them.

[Keith Christopher]

I have two that replaced mine. The Osborne, and the woodhaven. I LOVE them both. The woodhaven I bought to allow me to put sac fences and has alot of options from woodhaven. The woodhaven is DEAD on, easy to adjust and is WELL made, it is my favorite of all ones I tried.

the osborne is an EXCELLENT gauge, it is DEAD on out of the box. I use it when cross cutting long items (so far up to 5' in length. It has stops at all the important angles and can adjust to any inbetween. It supports the long stock well and has an extension. I also use it for all my mitre cuts that I don't need a sac fence for. The downside, it's either left or right side, not interchangeable easily.

[Hoa Dinh]

My 1000SE has the black plastic indexing stuff all the way along the mitre gauge fence and on the back of the sliding flipstop mechanism.
What on earth was I thinking? :o Or was I thinking at all? :o :o Sorry about that.

You're correct. I had things backward. There are indexing teeth where the flipstop is attached to the fence (two plastic screws).

But you can still have it both ways. There are no indexing teeth where the red part of the stop is attached to the bronze part. On mine (photo attached to my post on page 1 of this thread), there are two bronze knobs. I think the stop came with two Allen screws and I replaced them with two bronze knobs so I don't have to look for the Allen screwdriver every time I want to adjust the gauge.

I wouldn't mind if Incra raised the price by $5 and replaced all the Allen screws/bolts with knobs.

[Mark Pruitt]

Mark, I can answer your question "How easy is it to switch from the left slot on the TS to the right, and vice versa?" about the JessEm Mite-R-Excel since I bought that miter gauge about a month ago and did use it on both sides of the blade.

The answer is: it is possible but it is neither easy nor fast.

The unit comes set up to operate on the left side of the blade and there is no mention at all in their documentation about using the gauge on the right side. It took me about an hour to figure out how to reconfigure the Mite-R-Excel for the right side and then to move to extension, reverse the ruler, etc. It worked OK on the right side (if you like reading ruler upside down ;) ) , but I decided to give the left hand side a try. This time it took about 15 minutes to change things. I think that I could get that down to about 10 minutes but, since I am now happy operating on the left side, I don't plan to do so. Should I absolutely need a gauge on the right side for some operation, I will revert to the factor gauge (which, on my General 650 is quite good).

By the way, I do highly recommned the JessEm Mite-R-Excel. But, not if you plan to switch it back and forth on either dside of the blade.

Frank,
I appreciate your speaking up about the Jessem. I had seen your comments in an earlier thread and had the Jessem high on my list, but from looking at pictures I had the suspicion that switching from left to right slot would be a bit more involved. The Jessem is a work of beauty without a doubt, but it sounds like the difficulty of moving between left and right is going to drop it from my list. That's really too bad--I really do admire the beauty of the thing.

Of course, if I was made of $$$, I could just buy two of 'em! :rolleyes:
Mark