How do you make runners and kickers

[Alan Tolchinsky]

for a small table and how do you attach them? Do you glue and/or nail them? What size stock do you usually use? Thanks Alan in Md.

[Paul D. May]

for a small table and how do you attach them? Do you glue and/or nail them? What size stock do you usually use? Thanks Alan in Md.

Alan...I think more of a description will help here. Is it a coffee table, end table or ?

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Alan...I think more of a description will help here. Is it a coffee table, end table or ?
It's a sofa table with two drawers. Table top is 50" long and 13" deep. I just want to do a couple of drawers using no metal hardware to support. Thanks Alan

[Todd Burch]

Hi Alan. Just about every table is different - unless you are making multiples!

Here are a couple pics from a table I made a few years ago. It's a pine end table with pumkin milk paint under varnish.

There are 3 items to concern yourself with. First, you need to establish a surface for the drawer bottom to ride on, commonly called a runner. Second, you need side-to-side support to keep the drawer going straight as it's pushed in, with close enough tolerances so that the drawer cannot rack and hang up, but loose enough that a change in seasons won't affect movement. Lastly, you need a kicker on top so that the drawer won't tip down as it's pulled out.

This first picture shows how I typically combine the runner with the side support. I make the "L" and then install the assembly. (If you notice the two sets of screw holes - I had to make an "adjustment" on this table... :eek:

The second shows the kicker. Glued in the middle only and screwed to the underside of the top. (Glue is probably an overkill.)

You can also incorporate the kicker into the "L" assembly, by putting it on top and making it a sideways "U". Either way will work.

As far as stock thickness - I typically grab the nearest stock that looks sturdy enough for the job. The side supports/guides I will make as thick or thin as they need to be to attach to the apron and be the right thickness to give the side clearance I want.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Hi Alan. Just about every table is different - unless you are making multiples!

Here are a couple pics from a table I made a few years ago. It's a pine end table with pumkin milk paint under varnish.

There are 3 items to concern yourself with. First, you need to establish a surface for the drawer bottom to ride on, commonly called a runner. Second, you need side-to-side support to keep the drawer going straight as it's pushed in, with close enough tolerances so that the drawer cannot rack and hang up, but loose enough that a change in seasons won't affect movement. Lastly, you need a kicker on top so that the drawer won't tip down as it's pulled out.

This first picture shows how I typically combine the runner with the side support. I make the "L" and then install the assembly. (If you notice the two sets of screw holes - I had to make an "adjustment" on this table... :eek:

The second shows the kicker. Glued in the middle only and screwed to the underside of the top. (Glue is probably an overkill.)

You can also incorporate the kicker into the "L" assembly, by putting it on top and making it a sideways "U". Either way will work.

As far as stock thickness - I typically grab the nearest stock that looks sturdy enough for the job. The side supports/guides I will make as thick or thin as they need to be to attach to the apron and be the right thickness to give the side clearance I want.

Todd, Thanks so much for the info. This is just what I needed and I've copied your pics to my computer for reference. I really appreciate all the effort you put in here with the pics and all. Alan in Md.

[Jim Becker]

Alan, Taunton's Practical Design Solutions and Strategies (ISBN 1561583448) has some good discussion on lots of techniques, including what you are looking for. I've found it to be a useful addition to my library.

[Lars Thomas]

Todd, that's a well thought out response. I suspect that will help a bunch of folks. Lars

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Alan, Taunton's Practical Design Solutions and Strategies (ISBN 1561583448) has some good discussion on lots of techniques, including what you are looking for. I've found it to be a useful addition to my library.


Thanks Jim, I have it on order with Amazon and should be getting it soon. Alan in Md.