M12V & Plungelift: must I lock?

[Rich Person]

I have been using a Hitachi M12V mounted to a fixed Rockler plate in a Rockler router table. I have a DIY dust collector covering the router, so I pull the whole plate to make adjustments.

I'm now building a router table into my right extension wing of my new TS setup. I was going to move my M12V over and attach it to a new Woodpeckers Plungelift, as I'm tired of lifting out the router for each change. I wasn't aware until I read the instructions today that the Plungelift requires you to lock the plunge lock on the M12V for each height change. To me that defeats the purpose of having a router lift. Do you really have to lock the plunger?

If so, then I will be looking for a new combination (router and plate). Any suggestions?

[tod evans]

how `bout a shaper? .02 tod

[JayStPeter]

Do you really have to lock the plunger? ...

If so, then I will be looking for a new combination (router and plate). Any suggestions?

Consider yourself looking for a new plate/router combination.

That's the price you pay for the price savings of using a plunge mechanism as the lift. I don't find it too cumbersome, but still dream of a PRL where I wouldn't have to lock it. But, I can't even buy the motor for the PRL for the price of my entire setup now.

Jay

[Rich Person]

Consider yourself looking for a new plate/router combination.


Okay, my first complaint about Woodpeckers. I guess I should have known this, but the site says:


Great idea. Except when you try to adjust the router bit height from under the table. Plunge routers weren't designed for that purpose. . . .

Changing your router bit height is as simple as inserting and turning the crank handle. The crank handle inserts into a hex recess with is connected to a 32 pitch, steel lead screw and support arm. This precision mechanical assembly will lift the bit exactly 1/32" for each full rotation or as little as .001" per graduation. Each scale marking on the lift.

Where does it mention that you have to get under the table to lock the plunge action? I'm relatively tall with a less than perfect back, so I really don't want to reach under the table to lock, nor do I want to pull the plate for every cut.

So, I could go for a Quicklift and get a Bosch motor to go in it, or I could just buy the Bosch under-the-table mount and go without a plate.

I'm surprised so many people are happy with the M12V/PL combination, given that you still have to lock under the table. I guess most don't have dust collection surrounding their router.

[Mike Goetzke]

Rich I recently put a new M12V into the wing of my TS. I bought a Router Raiser at the same time I got the router - Amazon special. Before installing the raizer I had the same question about the need to lock the router. I called the people that sell the RR and was told (unofficially) that you really don't need to use the router lock except on larger raised panel bits. The weight of the router against the threads is enough to hold the router in place. I have found this to be true. You may want to visit www.workshopdemos.com (http://www.workshopdemos.com) . He has made a device to prevent the need to go under the table to lock the lift.

[Ernie Kuhn]

Rich,
I've got the MV12 in my table, used the older JessEm Rout-R-Lift. I've never had to "lock" the router and I didn't remove the springs either. Gravity, router weight, and springs have kept it in place for the last three years. So as not to get a "set" in the springs, I do lower the router all the way after each session. The only reason I have to reach under the table is to change router speed, a minor annoyance only. I did make and install the remote shaft lock so I can lean against the table to keep it engaged and use both hands to change bits.
Ernie

[larry merlau]

rich check with john miluians, he has one as well and maybe has a fix for your situation.

[John Miliunas]

rich check with john miluians, he has one as well and maybe has a fix for your situation.

Larry, Rich, wish I could be of help but, as it stands, my M12V is indeed in a Woodpeck plate, as well as an enclosed base and I continue to lock/unlock per adjustment. Well, almost; :o If I'm taking quite a few passes and "sneaking up" on a final cut depth, I will cheat and not lock it on the first several passes, which I know will fall short of where I need to be. However, as I get closer to the required depth, I will start locking it, just to ensure that, my final cuts are rock steady. :)

I have found that, as previously stated, the whole setup is indeed pretty solid and fear little, if any, movement. Exceptionally large diameter bits may not be included but, I think for the most part, a person can get by without locking each time. That said, I guess I'm a bit more on the anal side, so I still use it, more often than not. :o :) :cool:

[Rich Person]

John (and everyone else) thanks for your comments. I'm strongly considering just using my existing router table (Rockler with standard no-lift plate) and then waiting until I can pick up a dedicated motor (Milwaukee or P-C?) and put it in a lift that will allow me to leave it in the table and not have to peak underneath (Quicklift?). I don't want spend $150-300 just to get a lift that doesn't really do what I want it to.

[JayStPeter]

When I first got mine, I didn't lock. I got burned once when it did wander, now I always lock once the height is dialed in. The good part is that the PRL uses the same plate, so if I do upgrade it'll be drop the new one in and sell off the old.

Jay

[Rich Person]

Okay, after searching high and low, I guess I will cut a hole in my router enclosure and put a door there so I can lock my Plungelift manually. I just can't justify the cost/benefit of the others.

The Quick Lift is nice, but it doesn't appear to have a lock on it. The only thing holding it in place is the lead screw, which is the same as for the Plungelift if I don't lock it. So, I'm not sure how it would be any better.

At $289 (+$140), the Unilift would still require me to pull the router plate out to make bit changes, and I'm afraid the bit height limitation might be a problem on occaision. I would still desire a plate that allowed above table bit changes.

I would like the PRL, but I would need a new Milwaukee for a total of +$420 (over my M12V + PL). That seems a little steep at this time.

I was considering getting the Milwaukee 5625, mounting it to a standard plate with a hole drilled to use the above the table adjustment. However, the instructions say you still have to lock the height at the router level, so it doesn't save me anything.