Crown molding cut sequence?

[Jeff Eiber]

It's finally time to make 38/52 degree crown molding. Using a tablesaw, 7in diameter radius cutter and powerfeeder what do you suggest for the cutting sequence? The second attachment shows the five different cuts needed to make the molding: orange for the cove, red and green on the top, and blue and yellow on the bottom.

I'm thinking cove first then red and yellow followed by green and blue.

[Walt Pater]

Jeff I'd cut the back bevels first, assuming you're going to do it on a TS.

[Don Baer]

Jeff,
Shop notes had an article a few months ago about the sequence for cutting crown molding. I'll did through my issues and see if I can find it.

[Jim Hager]

I would definately make the cove first then follow up with the other cuts in no particular order. What ever suits you best. I think it would be safer when cutting cove on the table saw to have the bulk of the material in place when guiding it across the saw blade over and over again. Just my .02 as Tod says.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

a look at this page
http://www.binkyswoodworking.com/CoveMouldingTip.htm

[Frank Foley]

Cliff, thanks for the great link. While this will work great, I believe the procedures outlined are for a 45/45 crown. I am interested to see if anyone has the procedures for cutting a 38/52 crown.
Jeff, I've made 45/45 crown and I think it is fairly easy to cut, however it does sit differently then the 38/52 crown you wish to make.

Frank

[Richard Wolf]

If I could just pass this note along; care must be taken with using the power feed for this operation. You can easily create enough downward pressure on the crown to flex the profile passing over the blade.

Richard

[Ted Jay]

Cliff, thanks for the great link. While this will work great, I believe the procedures outlined are for a 45/45 crown. I am interested to see if anyone has the procedures for cutting a 38/52 crown.
Jeff, I've made 45/45 crown and I think it is fairly easy to cut, however it does sit differently then the 38/52 crown you wish to make.

Frank

The 38 or 52 spring angle is the degrees that it sits against the wall, as the 45 is. Just change or cut that angle and you have a 38 or 52 crown moulding. Unless I'm missing something here?

[Frank Foley]

Ted, I agree with you 100%, and understand what you saying. My issue/ignorance is cutting the 52 degree on the table saw in a saw manner. I haven't messed with this enough to determine if I can make the cuts without a jig or special setup...Hopefully, I don't look like big dummy.
Thanks again for the help.
Frank

[Ted Jay]

Ted, I agree with you 100%, and understand what you saying. My issue/ignorance is cutting the 52 degree on the table saw in a saw manner. I haven't messed with this enough to determine if I can make the cuts without a jig or special setup...Hopefully, I don't look like big dummy.
Thanks again for the help.
Frank

I went ahead and drew this up on AutoCad... Does this help?

[Richard Wolf]

I understand your concern, Frank. How do you safely cut the 52 degrees on the table saw, after the cove is cut. I think you should think about cutting the 52's first, face up, which means to set the blade at 38 degrees, then cut the cove, and finially the 38 degrees. I not sure about it, I think that works?

Richard

[Ted Jay]

I understand your concern, Frank. How do you safely cut the 52 degrees on the table saw, after the cove is cut. I think you should think about cutting the 52's first, face up, which means to set the blade at 38 degrees, then cut the cove, and finially the 38 degrees. I not sure about it, I think that works?

Richard

That cut also depends on whether he wants a 52 or 38 degree spring angle moulding, which is the angle at the bottom of the moulding against the wall. The bottom of the moulding is usually determined to have the most detail, unless you make it symetrical. Normally you have 52, 45, or 38 degree spring angle mouldings. 52 for taller ceilings, 38 for lower ceilings, and using the 45 for ceilings in between. Of course you can use whichever moulding you want for whatever ceiling height you want, it's all personal preference. What I listed above is the norm.

[Richard Wolf]

I understand your concern, Frank. How do you safely cut the 52 degrees on the table saw, after the cove is cut. I think you should think about cutting the 52's first, face up, which means to set the blade at 38 degrees, then cut the cove, and finially the 38 degrees. I not sure about it, I think that works?

Richard

No, I knew I had that wrong, you must cut the 38's first by setting the blade to 52 degrees. I have not seen a table saw that will cut a 38 degree bevel.

Richard

[Jeff Geltz]

Dang. That looks like a dangerous way to go about making cove molding. 'Course I'm not a big fan of doing contortions on the table saw. I just don't like to temp fate.

[Rob Will]

Dang. That looks like a dangerous way to go about making cove molding. 'Course I'm not a big fan of doing contortions on the table saw. I just don't like to temp fate.

Same here, I would find somebody with a molder and get them to run my stock.

[Jeff Eiber]

Thanks for your input with my cut sequence question. I should have shown a drawing of the finished molding with the correct angles I wanted. I did manage to make the molding and thought I would post the pictures.

[Jeff Eiber]

And the last two cuts.

[Ted Jay]

And the last two cuts.

OH... Now you show us all the fancy doodads and thingamajigs to make crown mouldings........ COOL:D Looks nice.