Question on Zero Clearance plate and homemade splitter

[Delano Mireles]

Hi All,

before I am berated on purchasing the plate instead of making my own let's just say I've purchased it and that's that ;). I'm a 'newbie' with 3 little ones under the age of 6 so my time in the garage shop is valuable and limited. So...I've purchased this plate installed it - ran the blade through - and all went well. Next, I went to cut a slot to put in a little "splitter" since I've removed the factory guard and splitter but I didn't get it lined up quite right so I come to y'all with a two-fold question:

1.) Is it possible to salvage this scr*w up and get a splitter in there

and if so...

2.) what's a good way to line up the channel for the splitter with the blade opening already created in the plate?

thank you all for your time and wisdom!

Delano

[Jim Becker]

Cut some scrap to the width you need to fill the mishappen slot, glue it in and then trim it flush once the glue is dry. Put your original insert in the saw and line up the edge of your fence exactly on the edge of the insert opening so that pushing the new insert along the fence will keep it completely lined up with the original insert plate.

The following is offered only as one way to create a new splitter slot. If you are not comfortable with it...don't do it this way! Your safety must come first!! Personally, I prefer, recommend and use a removable splitter that attaches to the saw arbor, not the insert.

Careful Please!...you need to make a stopped cut to complete the insert preparation and the blade will be exposed. You must securely control the workpiece through the whole cut.

Raise your blade to maximum, turn on the saw and very slowly and carefully "rip" the slot for your splitter, stopping well short of the blade kerf. (Remember, the kerf is longer on the bottom, unseen side of the insert) Without moving further and keeping pressure on the workpiece, shut off the saw. When the blade completely stops, you can slide the new insert back. Do NOT pull the workpiece back while the blade is still spinning as you could inadvertently cause lateral movement, resulting in pinching and a kickback.

[Delano Mireles]

Cut some scrap to the width you need to fill the mishappen slot, glue it in and then trim it flush once the glue is dry. Put your original insert in the saw and line up the edge of your fence exactly on the edge of the insert opening so that pushing the new insert along the fence will keep it completely lined up with the original insert plate.

The following is offered only as one way to create a new splitter slot. If you are not comfortable with it...don't do it this way! Your safety must come first!! Personally, I prefer, recommend and use a removable splitter that attaches to the saw arbor, not the insert.

Jim thanks for the response. I too would prefer a removable splitter but I believe the only one that will fit my Jet Contractor is the Biesemeyer and dropping $140 right now is not possible for me so I'm going to try this solution until the Biesemeyer is more doable. If you know of any other splitter I'd love to hear about it. I've heard of the delta for $40 but I don't believe that would work on my saw.

Now, as for filling the slot and resawing the the slot, would you recommend using some sort of epoxy or just regular yellow glue?

Thanks again!

BTW, if anyone has another option for a low cost splitter I'd love to hear about it. I've seen the merlin but that would require cutting the back rail of my fence and that's not something I want to do.

Delano

[Jim Becker]

Now, as for filling the slot and resawing the the slot, would you recommend using some sort of epoxy or just regular yellow glue?

What is your insert made of? If it's wood...use yellow glue. If it's something "man-made", use epoxy or CA

[Delano Mireles]

What is your insert made of? If it's wood...use yellow glue. If it's something "man-made", use epoxy or CA

Jim,

thanks again. It is the lee valley insert so I'll use epoxy.

Delano

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Cut some scrap to the width you need to fill the mishappen slot, glue it in and then trim it flush once the glue is dry. Put your original insert in the saw and line up the edge of your fence exactly on the edge of the insert opening so that pushing the new insert along the fence will keep it completely lined up with the original insert plate.

The following is offered only as one way to create a new splitter slot. If you are not comfortable with it...don't do it this way! Your safety must come first!! Personally, I prefer, recommend and use a removable splitter that attaches to the saw arbor, not the insert.

Careful Please!...you need to make a stopped cut to complete the insert preparation and the blade will be exposed. You must securely control the workpiece through the whole cut.

Raise your blade to maximum, turn on the saw and very slowly and carefully "rip" the slot for your splitter, stopping well short of the blade kerf. (Remember, the kerf is longer on the bottom, unseen side of the insert) Without moving further and keeping pressure on the workpiece, shut off the saw. When the blade completely stops, you can slide the new insert back. Do NOT pull the workpiece back while the blade is still spinning as you could inadvertently cause lateral movement, resulting in pinching and a kickback.


Jim a related question: I made my zero clearance insert exactly the way you said. I have a delta splitter and made the slot just like you outlined above. But one thing I did didn't feel real safe and I wanted to ask you this: When you put the insert in for the first time it wouldn't seat all the way even with the blade all the way down.

So I put the insert in at the back of the slot, turned the saw on and then carefully lowered the front of the insert into the blade. Man the warning bells were going off but I kept my hands away from the blade and just concentrated on the procedure.

How would you do this more safely? Thanks Alan in Md.

[Jim DeLaney]

I've heard of the delta for $40 but I don't believe that would work on my saw.

Actually, the Delta splitter should work just fin on your Jet saw.

I've used it on the Powermatic 63/64, which is a virtual clone of the Jet (or vice-versa) and now have it installed on a Shop Fox cabinet saw, so all these saws are pretty much 'interchangeable' so far as the splitter is concerned.

[George Summers]

An optional way to provide a splitter in a home made zero clearance insert is to use a 1/8" drill bit or 1/8" metal dowel. Drill a hole behind the blade and epoxy the drill bit or rod into the hole. This is for a full kerf blade, for a thin kerf blade use a rod or drill bit of the appropriate size.

George

[Jim Becker]

So I put the insert in at the back of the slot, turned the saw on and then carefully lowered the front of the insert into the blade. Man the warning bells were going off but I kept my hands away from the blade and just concentrated on the procedure

AAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhh!! The little (and big) hairs on the back of my neck are sticking straight out...and that's quite a sight since my hair is worn in a long pony-tail!


How would you do this more safely?

'Glad you asked. I've used two methods...with the second being the way I normally handle this.

1) Use a smaller diameter blade, such as one of the outer blades from a stacked dado set (must be the same kerf width as your regular blade(s)) to do that first cut. The insert should be fully seated in place and all inserts should have a pin at the rear to prevent it lifting as the blade spins upward.

2) Set up your router table with a core box bit or vee-groove bit and do a stopped cut along the blade line on the underside of the insert. This relieves the area that your 10" blade needs to exist in. This is a great way to do multiple inserts (what I do) in a batch. The downside is that the edges of the blade slot may wear quicker...but using inexpensive MDF for my inserts makes that a moot point. When they wear out...I trash them.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

AAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhh!! The little (and big) hairs on the back of my neck are sticking straight out...and that's quite a sight since my hair is worn in a long pony-tail!



'Glad you asked. I've used two methods...with the second being the way I normally handle this.

1) Use a smaller diameter blade, such as one of the outer blades from a stacked dado set (must be the same kerf width as your regular blade(s)) to do that first cut. The insert should be fully seated in place and all inserts should have a pin at the rear to prevent it lifting as the blade spins upward.

2) Set up your router table with a core box bit or vee-groove bit and do a stopped cut along the blade line on the underside of the insert. This relieves the area that your 10" blade needs to exist in. This is a great way to do multiple inserts (what I do) in a batch. The downside is that the edges of the blade slot may wear quicker...but using inexpensive



MDF for my inserts makes that a moot point. When they wear out...I


trash them.



Thanks Jim that sounds a lot safer. I don't have a dado set but I can go the router method. Next time I will listen to that inner voice when it screams at me. Thanks Alan

[Kevin Beck]

When I made my batch of inserts I used double stick tape to stick the new inserts to my factory insert and raised the blade up through the insert. I also clamped a board across the saw kerf just in case the tape decided to let go.

I saw this method in Shop Notes or Woodsmith can't remember which.

Kevin

[David LaRue]

When I made my batch of inserts I used double stick tape to stick the new inserts to my factory insert and raised the blade up through the insert. I also clamped a board across the saw kerf just in case the tape decided to let go.

I saw this method in Shop Notes or Woodsmith can't remember which.

Kevin


It was from Woodsmith... here is the link

Zero Clearance for Table Saw - Procedure (http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip060900ws.html)

Be safe! :rolleyes:

Dave

[David LaRue]

An optional way to provide a splitter in a home made zero clearance insert is to use a 1/8" drill bit or 1/8" metal dowel. Drill a hole behind the blade and epoxy the drill bit or rod into the hole. This is for a full kerf blade, for a thin kerf blade use a rod or drill bit of the appropriate size.

George


Here is a link to how to do this way... ;)

Pin Splitter for Zero Clearance (http://www.homestead.com/ValRoseWoodWorks/Splitter.html)

Be Safe!

Dave

[George Summers]

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Here is a link to how to do this way... ;)

Pin Splitter for Zero Clearance (http://www.homestead.com/ValRoseWoodWorks/Splitter.html)

Be Safe!

Dave
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Dave - Grip-Tite makes one just like the one you show and sells for $6.00. Might be the same one and MesaVerde just resells it.

Tried it and though it works, I have found that the rod works better and cheaper.

George

[David LaRue]

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-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Dave - Grip-Tite makes one just like the one you show and sells for $6.00. Might be the same one and MesaVerde just resells it.

Tried it and though it works, I have found that the rod works better and cheaper.

George

Yup, Grip-Tite has it on their website, but the photos are so bad you can't see it! Take a look: http://www.grip-tite.com/splitter.html

I use the splitter that is part of my stock guard. I just ordered the Bies overarm guad & splitter for my saw. Should get it by the end of the week. Project for the weekend! I'll put a review of it on my website when I'm done.

Dave

[Delano Mireles]

Actually, the Delta splitter should work just fin on your Jet saw.

I've used it on the Powermatic 63/64, which is a virtual clone of the Jet (or vice-versa) and now have it installed on a Shop Fox cabinet saw, so all these saws are pretty much 'interchangeable' so far as the splitter is concerned.

Jim,

that's great to hear! Would you happen to have any information on the splitter? Are we talking about the one you have to order through Delta's service parts dept?

thanks again,

Delano

[David LaRue]

Jim,

that's great to hear! Would you happen to have any information on the splitter? Are we talking about the one you have to order through Delta's service parts dept?

thanks again,

Delano


The splitter is the one from Delta, not the Bies. It comes with the overarm guard. Not sure how it's going to fit a Powermatic 66. So, that should get interesting! I'll keep you posted on how it goes.

Worst case I'll have to order the Bies splitter. But would rather not. It is $130 bucks or so plus it wouldn't work with my thin kerf blades I have. I'm hoping a simple modification of the splitter will work. Perhaps someone out there has already done this... ?

Dave

[Tom Gattiker]

Here's a bit more detail on fast foolproof alignment of dowel/drill bit splitters that someone has already mentioned.
--Cut Kerf in insert. The kerf that the blade will occupy. Not for the splitter. To do this just raise blade into insert.
--Put throatplate on drill press table with length roughly parrallel to you / front of table.
--Chuck up bit exactly same dia as saw blade (and kerf)
--Lower bit into kerf and keep it there
--With bit in kerf, adjust DP fence to that the insert rides along the fence (yes this does require 3 hands if your dp fence is as crude as mine!).
--Raise bit.
--Slide insert along fence
--With insert against fence, drill hole 1/2 inch or so behind kerf.

Stick a drill bit or dowel in this hole to act as your splitter.

BTW, I have a couple young kids too, so I know where you are coming from on the time thing. If I get a few hours in the shop in a week, it's a good week. But can't complain!

[Jim DeLaney]

Jim,

that's great to hear! Would you happen to have any information on the splitter? Are we talking about the one you have to order through Delta's service parts dept?

thanks again,

Delano

It's the one that comes with the UniGuard. The separate part number for just the splitter is: 1349941. Cost is (was) $29.90. Order it by calling 1-800-223-7278.

It does not come with installation instructions, but they're posted several places on the web. I know Mark Goodall has them on his site. I'll see if I can find a link for you...

[George Summers]

Jim D -

You're sure the Delta splitter will work on a PM64A? I will be buying one if it does. I would hate to spend $30 and find it doesn't work and have to sell it for $15 on one of the various forums' classified ad sections.

George

[Jim DeLaney]

Jim D -

You're sure the Delta splitter will work on a PM64A? I will be buying one if it does. I would hate to spend $30 and find it doesn't work and have to sell it for $15 on one of the various forums' classified ad sections.

George


How does the 64A differ from the 64? For the left tilt saw, you can just press out the pin in the mounting base and insert it from the other side. After that, it should bolt up, using the same two mounting holes that are used for the OEM splitter bracket

[Delano Mireles]

How does the 64A differ from the 64? For the left tilt saw, you can just press out the pin in the mounting base and insert it from the other side. After that, it should bolt up, using the same two mounting holes that are used for the OEM splitter bracket

Jim,

thanks so much again for the information. I went ahead and ordered the pin solution from Grip-Tite for now and will probably order the delta a little later. Tool budget is running low after the 10 jorgensen clamps i've purchased this month - - but i just couldn't pass up the deal... :p


Delano