Clamping mitered corner questions?

[Josh Goldsmith]

Hello all! I have been building alot of things that use mitered corners. I have alot of trouble clamping the corners and also they like to move (slide) when i tighten the clamps. I am aware of the corner clamps but i thought i would ask all of you what you use for clamping mitered corners. If you use something that is store bought please tell me how you like it and if it is something you built please post a pic. I want to find the best way to get a nice tight corner! Thanks Josh

[Jamie Buxton]

Check this thread....
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=124963#post124963

[Dan Forman]

Not sure the size of pieces you are doing, but these work well for smaller items. I got mine when I was doing picture framing.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=1628

[Mark Singer]

Every clamping situation is a little different. Jamie's technique is the one I often use...and here is another for long miters...The long rip miters for the legs of the coffee table I am making are attacked using Kreg pocket screw wood strips from the inside....this works well am d will position the two pieces precisely if the strips are applied accurately at the edge of the bevel...

[John Stevens]

Josh, I've been building plywood cases that have mitered edges, and clear packing tape has worked for me. Lay the pieces flat with the outer sides facing up. Tape along the joint. Really press the tape into the wood so it won't come off. Flip, apply glue to the edge, and fold into a 90 degree bend, bracing the sides with a square. When the glue sets, the joint is virtually impossible to break.

I read about this method in a FWW article by Steve Latta and didn't believe it until I tried it. I'll never again use splines, biscuits or any type of clamp for this kind of joint. The article instructed readers to do all four sides at once, but I find that it's easier and more accurate to do one joint at time, even though it takes a longer.

[Mike Goetzke]

I use these:

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/merlclmp.html

I tried a Bessey version that uses nylon straps but these work much better.

Depending on the thickness of the lumber I also have good luck using four parallel jaw clamps.

I also at times will shoot some brads into the corners to keep them aligned.

Mike

[Rick Thom]

This may seem strange but a reputeable ww magazine I purchase advocates putting a little sand in the glue before the joint is brought together. The idea is that the sand provides some bite as the clamp applies pressure to the joint and reduces the tendancy of the boards to "skate" and become misaligned as the joint is closed. I haven't tried this yet. Is this practice common?

[Josh Goldsmith]

Thanks for all the replies!!!!! The sizes of frames really varie but lately it has been roughly 36"x55". I have been building alot of mirror frames. There is alot of different techniques. My dad has been telling me to start using those bandclamps. Whats your opinions on those. Thanks again. Josh

[Brad Evans]

I've been a fan of these special Gross Stabil clamps for a long time:

http://pages.sbcglobal.net/b-evans/Images16/MiterClamps.jpg

Over the years i've made a couple hundred frames like these using em:

http://pages.sbcglobal.net/b-evans/Images16/Frames.jpg

While on a similar subject, here's a pic of my new miter jig. So far, it it looks like it will be replacing my Lion Mitre trimmer:

http://pages.sbcglobal.net/b-evans/Images16/MiterJig.jpg


Looking forward to trying the tape method - looks pretty neat.


Brad
Urban pix: www.citysnaps.net

[Josh Goldsmith]

Hey Brad those clamps look great. Where do you buy those? Also i noticed that you clamp 1 corner at a time. Have you had a problem with not being square when you get it all clamped together? How wide of piece of wood can that jig cut. thanks Josh

[Brad Evans]

Josh,

Here's a link to the clamps (they're a little pricey):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005A1K4/qid=1144082086/sr=8-14/ref=sr_1_14/104-4003655-4891928?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=228013

With two clamps I do two side-top/bottom sets at a time. I then use a Bessey band clamp to make the frame. Less stuff to juggle at a time.

Actually though, I'm going to try the tape method, which was referenced by Bill Arnold here (maybe you don't need any clamps!):
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=124963#post124963

With respect to my miter cutting jig, stock width is limited by max blade height and jig base thickness, so I'm guessing it's around 2 1/2 inches.


Brad
Urban pix: www.citysnaps.net