Blade changing problem after riser block install

[Darren Vass]

I wanted to put on a new blade tonight on my Jet 14 inch bandsaw with the riser block installed. The riser block is flush top and bottom with the upper and lower half of the saw. I have never put a blade on this thing yet. Tried the stock 105" as well as the Timber Wolf 105" blade and both blades are just short of being able to go around the bottom wheel. According to my table saw video from Taunton, the blade simply and easily slips over the wheels. What might be the problem? The Tension is off. Help please, anyone.:confused:

Thanks,

Darren

[Mike Cutler]

I have a Jet 14" with the riser also. Sometimes the tension is released, but the tension mechanism gets hung up in the groove it rides in.Hold onto to the upper wheel and wiggle it around, you may even have to move the wheel up slightly and then let it come down. be ready for it to drop a 1/2" or so.
I've used the T'wolves also on my saw, and haven't had problems with getting them on, so it should work.
Hope this helps.

PS. The tension is fully released isn't it? not just backed off. Everything should be loose, sometimes you have to back the tension rod all the way off.

[Darren Vass]

Thanks for the tip. Yes, the tension box? does get hung up.

I don't know how to read the markings on the tension box. To what do they refer? I have a 3/8" blade, but am not sure how to judge the tension. The box has blade width markings on either side, but again, not sure how to read it on the Jet saw.

Thanks,

Darren

[Vaughn McMillan]

Darren, I don't have the Jet, so no firsthand knowledge, but from what I've read here and other places, the tension markings are only a rough guide, and there are other recommended ways to adjust the tension. Do a search here for "bandsaw tension" and "flutter method" (including the quotation marks). There are nearly as many opinions on "the right way" to tension a bandsaw blade as there are blade manufacturers. ;)

HTH -

- Vaughn

[Mike Cutler]

Thanks for the tip. Yes, the tension box? does get hung up.

I don't know how to read the markings on the tension box. To what do they refer? I have a 3/8" blade, but am not sure how to judge the tension. The box has blade width markings on either side, but again, not sure how to read it on the Jet saw.

Thanks,

Darren
Darren.
The markings on the bck of the tension gauge on the Jet represent the physical setting for the particular blade that is being used, ie if you are using a 3/8" blade you would tension the screw to have the indicator on the nut, align with the 3/8 graduation mark. However, The spring on the jet is pretty weak. Mine developed a little less than 9000 psi total force, when maxed out, so as Vaughn stated. Take the tension indication with a grain of salt.
Timberwolf blades are tensioned using the "Flutter method" . I never really got the hang of this method, and just tensioned the blade to the corresponding mark on the back of the saw and then tested it out, and usually ended up increasing the tension until it performed as I thought it should. For my saw I usually ended up with a 3/8" blade set to a little more that 1/2" as indicated on the back of the saw. Your saw may be different than mine, so don't take this as gospel. Hopefully someone else that mastered the flutter method can more concisely explain it.
Good luck, and think about changing out that spring to a Cobra Coil spring. I allowed me to more fully utilize that tension indication scale on the Jet.

[Charles Bruno]

Darren,
Go to the Timberwolf website they have detailed instructions on the "flutter" method, its the recommended way they suggest for setting up their blades.

[Charlie Plesums]

Darren,
Go to the Timberwolf website they have detailed instructions on the "flutter" method, its the recommended way they suggest for setting up their blades.
I had a hard time finding the "flutter tensioning" on the current web site (www.suffolkmachinery.com (http://www.suffolkmachinery.com)). Since you have the 14 inch Jet (same as Grizzly G0555, and probably others), there is a simple way, since you can see the blade in the channel where it returns from the lower wheel to the upper. When you are not cutting the tension on the way up (in the channel) is almost the same as on the way down (where it is used). By looking in that channel, you don't have to remove the guides to watch for flutter.

Start with the blade firmly on the wheels and running smoothly, but minimum tension. It should not be touching the thrust bearing behind the blade until you start cutting. The side guides should have little or no pressure on the blade when it is running without cutting. You will see the blade vibrating - fluttering - in the channel, like a string on a musical instrument. Tighten the tension until that flutter just disappears, plus another quarter turn or so. If there is no flutter to start with, loosen until the flutter starts, then tighten until it disappears. Watch it for a few seconds... if the flutter returns, just tighten a little more.

Timberwolf blades are designed for low tension... they take far less than other types of blades.

[Tyler Howell]

Check Out Inturra Designs high tension spring and tension adjust with acme threads. They really spead up the adjustment process:cool:

[Darren Vass]

I made my virginal Bandsaw cut last night. It's a wonderful feeling. I ripped a 36" piece of 3/4 red oak and the machine cut through it like it was butter. Only, the cut would stop every 3-4 inches or so momentarily and then I could continue. I did not force it. I did not use a fence, just free handed it along my cut line. Again, this was my first time. I found that I had to shift the wood from right to left at various angles to keep the blade on the cut line. Also, my HF DC worked quite well. Only slight amount of dust on the table and slight on the wheels. But no dust in either of the wheel chambers.

The tension spring fully fills the viewing slot in the back. I did not understand this. I guess, it must be way undertensioned. The bottom of the spring is supposed to pull up when more tension is applied, so the the bottom of the spring lines up with the recommended tension markings? I have a 3/8 inch balde on there.

Thanks,

Darren

[Michael Ballent]

I think you are experiencing "blade drift" all blades have a tendancy to not cut perfectly straight. What you typically do is draw a straight line on piece of wood, and begin to make the cut without a fence. You will probably need to angle the wood so that you can make the straight cut. Now you can make the appropriate adjustment to your fence so you can make straight cuts with your BS :D