Tool dull?

[Roger Bailey]

I started working on making a goblet last night out of some curly maple. I have in the past only did between center turning. Since I now have a lathe able to turn bowls and such I am trying to learn. I do not know if it is just my technique or are my gouges getting dull that fast. I can barely cut the end grain. I started out fine for the first quarter inch or so. The tools I am using are new this is their first use. Does this type of wood dull tools that fast or am I just doing something to cause it? The wood is about 7 inches in diameter. What is the proper tool to hollow it out? Thanks for helping this newbee out!

[Lee DeRaud]

I'm a newbie myself, so I don't have any answers to your questions.

But seeing "goblet" and "seven inches in diameter" used together tells me you're somebody who takes their drinking seriously. :eek:

I like that. :cool:

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Roger...........mind you this is based on my limited experience!

1st......You need sharp tools. New tools doesn't mean they are sharp! I know....last night I tried using my new expensive bowl gouge....Then I went to the grinder.........Big difference after sharpening!

2ndly....I found the easiest way to hollow boxes or goblets...endgrain is a 2 step process. First I use my spindle gouge to drill a hole in the center to nearly the finished depth.....Say within a 1/16-1/8". You do this by setting your tool rest just slightly below center and just plunging your spindle gouge in at the center. Mark the desire depth on the spindle gouge using blue painters tape. The physics of spinning wood is such that it's nearly impossible to get it off center or crooked. Then using the spindle gouge enlarge the hole working out from the hole you just created. I just keep working from the center hole using a scraping cut with the edge of the spindle gouge. You might want to mark the radius/diameter of the finished inside wall. I use a 1/2" round nose scraper to finish it. If you have broadband there are some free videos at Woodcraft under Education. THe videos are by Sorby and show you these techniques. Good Luck!

[Roger Bailey]

Yea Lee if I can get it done i'll break it in with a cold Bud:)

[Chris Barton]

Hi Guys,

First, rarely are turning tools sufficiently sharp at purchase for turning. Also, I probably sharpen my gouges at least 2 times per small bowl. You will know if you are using too dull a tool by experiencing "tear-out" or tearing of the wood fibers. The answer for this is to sharpen the tool, use lighter cuts, and sometimes, higher speeds.

[John Hart]

Roger...What Ken is describing is very effective. What I've found is that trying to cut end grain is difficult and dulls your tools. After you have bored the center hole, you now have face grain available to cut on the walls of that bored hole. Attack that facegrain rather than the end grain, and work outward. Works for me anyway.

[Ron Ainge]

Roger, I agree with all that Ken has stated in his thread. I believe that everyone should learn the skill that he talks about while they are learning to turn. As you progress in the skill level you will probably be intorduce to two different types of end grain turning tools, the termite toon and the Berger tool. Both of these tool are made differently and the work well for the end grain application. I attended one of Sojrn Bergers turning demos and was shown how to use his tool and therefore I bought that tool. It is great to turn small boxes to large bowls with and I use it a lot when I do the starting of end grain hollow vessels. Again I would suggest that you learn the other way before you start into speciality tools. Good Luck!!!