Drilling my faceplate

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Folks..........the faceplate I got with the Bomb has 4 very small holes in it. I suspect if I can find screw that small they won't have any substantial holding power. Is it okay to enlarge those hole so that I can use a larger diameter screw?

2ndly.........I'm thinking I'd like to try turning a plate or platter....How do you folks chuck up something like that?..........Between centers to turn a spigot and then chuck it?.........Turn an internal dovetail and then chuck it?...........Ideas please.........

[John Hart]

My faceplates all have oversized, slotted holes. Sure helps for alignment. FWIW, I use Stainless Steel Screws....they seem to last longer.

Lately, I've been attaching my platter blanks to a faceplate or scrap block with double sided carpet tape (the spongy stuff). Works nice for getting the bottom and tenon cut.

[Jim Ketron]

I drilled the face plate on my Jet Mini.
I agree the holes are way to small.
Go for it Ken;)

[Chris Barton]

Good Morning Ken,

While I would agree that the holes on my Jet VS Mini faceplate are small, I have never needed to turn something large enough to require screws that would not fit the faceplate. I have one of the inexpensive Griz chucks that I use sometimes and do both DT or tenon based upon the look I am after (like I am ever aware of that when I am turning, tends to be much more of an adventure). I have also used a sacrificial block and a faceplate. This works very well. One way to do this if the platter has enough depth, is to mount the blank on the faceplate so that the bottom will be toward the tailstock and flatten the bottom and glue on a sacrifical piece of wood (I like pine scraps) and shape the bottom of the platter the way you want it and leave a round section of the sac block so that the faceplate can be removed from the face side and repositioned on the block. Then trun the inside of the platter, finish and part off the sac block macking sure to stop just before the tenon gets too small to support the work. You can then cut it off with a knife or saw and sand the spot.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ken I drilled larger holes in my faceplate with no problems. Small screws did not give me a warm fuzzy. I use the stainless steel screws. I use a faceplate to turn a platter or plate till I get the bottom shaped.

[Jim Becker]

While I never use a recess for bowls and vessels, it's a good way to mount platters as you have a lot of "support" around the recess. (You don't have that support for a recess with bowls and vessels in most cases if they have continuous curve forms that taper to the foot)

OK to drill the faceplate for larger diameter screws...just do it on a DP with the faceplate clamped securely.

[Raymond Overman]

As others have said, use steel screws. It's a real pain to dig decking screws out of a block of wood after you've sheared the head off of them. Don't ask me how I know this.

[Jim Becker]

As others have said, use steel screws.

And NEVER, EVER use drywall screws for this job. Sheet metal screws and course square drive screws are fine.

[Lee DeRaud]

As others have said, use steel screws. It's a real pain to dig decking screws out of a block of wood after you've sheared the head off of them. Don't ask me how I know this.It's even more annoying when the block of wood in question is part of a deck.:p

[Christopher K. Hartley]

On the second question I don't know if this will be of any use but it is something I'm going to try. Fortunately I have the right size tap for my lathe. Just a thought: http://www.aroundthewoods.com/gblock.shtml

[Dennis Peacock]

Turning platters.....

Let's keep this fairly simple as it doesn't require a lot of support to start out your platter. I've turned a few out of a 3/4" board with very nice results.

Use you smallest faceplate with screws that will only project 1/4" into the center section of what will be the platter.
Bring up your tailstock for support and to apply "some pressure" to help hold the wood to the faceplate.
Turn you a tenon or a recess, which ever you choose to do.
Form the back (bottom) of the platter and sand it while there.
Turn the platter around and chuck it on your scroll chuck. Either clamp down on your tenon or expand into your recess. When expanding into a recess, remember to not apply a LOT of outward pressure so you don't crack or split the piece of wood.
Remove the faceplate from the front.
Turn the front form of the platter and sand when finished.
Apply your finish to the front and the back of the platter.
If you turned a recess, then all you'll need to do is sand by hand the recess part and apply your finish.

Hope this is more clear to ya Ken that what it seems. :confused: :rolleyes:

[David Fried]

Ken,

I think the "Stu" in you is emerging! Sure, drill that face plate. When you need a larger face plate you can start eyeing the disk brake rotors on your car! Hmmm... :D

[John Hart]

... When you need a larger face plate you can start eyeing the disk brake rotors on your car! ...

...Or Stu's motorcycle!!!:D

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Ken,

I think the "Stu" in you is emerging! Sure, drill that face plate. When you need a larger face plate you can start eyeing the disk brake rotors on your car! Hmmm... :D

Take it as a compliment Ken, I am :D:D

Hey.... I have some used up motorcycle rotors kicking around....... :D :D :D

[David Fried]

Take it as a compliment Ken, I am :D:D

Hey.... I have some used up motorcycle rotors kicking around....... :D :D :D

If they are ones with all the little holes drilled in them for cooling then I think you're well on your way to adding indexing to your lathe!

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

If they are ones with all the little holes drilled in them for cooling then I think you're well on your way to adding indexing to your lathe!

My C-man lathe already has indexing :D

[Ron Ainge]

Folks..........the faceplate I got with the Bomb has 4 very small holes in it. I suspect if I can find screw that small they won't have any substantial holding power. Is it okay to enlarge those hole so that I can use a larger diameter screw?

2ndly.........I'm thinking I'd like to try turning a plate or platter....How do you folks chuck up something like that?..........Between centers to turn a spigot and then chuck it?.........Turn an internal dovetail and then chuck it?...........Ideas please.........

Ken

I use the face plate that I got with my Jet Mini Vs all the time and I have not enlarged the holes in it. If I think that the project is going to have too much weight to be held by the screws the will fit the current face plate I would also add some double sided carpet tape between the faceplate and whatever you attach to the face plate. You would be surprised to see how much just the tape alone will hold, I have used that face plate and the two sided tape alone to turn 8 inch bowls with. the trick to it is to make sure that both surfaces are flat and when you put them together you put some pressure (vice or clamps) on them for a few minutes so the glue has a chance to adhere.

secondly I would turn the platter by making a spigot into the platter. You do not need to make the spigot very deep 3/16 to 1/4 at most. Your chuck will hold this way very well. When you do it this way you should try to do most of the bottom of the plate while you have it between centers and before you put it on the chuck.