Miter joint adjustments

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Hi All, I'm making a sofa table with a mitered "frame" around the top. This frame will be about 2-3 inches wide with 45 degree miters. I have a miter sled that gives dead on miters but when I match them to the table top the joints are not perfect. I may have some spots that are 1/64" or so open, not much but not perfect. I've checked the table top and it's square. How do you tweak your joints to get that perfect fit? Sandpaper, plane, etc.?

[Kevin Gerstenecker]

Alan, I would normally use a plane to adjust the miter joint that didn't fit just so. There must be something off a little somewhere for the corners not to be tight. When you get a minute, you may want to check your equipment to see where the problem occurred. My bet would be that the Table Top is just a "Fuzz" out of square. The top may show square with a tape measure, but it could be off just enough to cause the fitting problem. If your miters are right on, then it must be the top? I have run into this a time or two.........and it will drive you nuts, but it can be remedied. Just plane the joints that are open, and you should be back in business. :)

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Alan, I would normally use a plane to adjust the miter joint that didn't fit just so. There must be something off a little somewhere for the corners not to be tight. When you get a minute, you may want to check your equipment to see where the problem occurred. My bet would be that the Table Top is just a "Fuzz" out of square. The top may show square with a tape measure, but it could be off just enough to cause the fitting problem. If your miters are right on, then it must be the top? I have run into this a time or two.........and it will drive you nuts, but it can be remedied. Just plane the joints that are open, and you should be back in business. :)


I had checked the top and it was less than a '64th out of square at the ends. I figured this was as close as I was going to get it. So I thought I'd just work on the miters and tweak them. Make sense?

So even though you may have perfect miters, if you don't have perfect square elsewhere( table top for example) things don't fit perfectly. But then nothings perfect in woodworking or life is it? :) Thanks Alan

[Jim DeLaney]

Measure your side and end pieces. Sounds like one of them may be just a tad longer than the other. All it'll take is for one of the ends or sides to be maybe 1/32" longer, and you'll get the results you're seeing.

DAMHIKT

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Measure your side and end pieces. Sounds like one of them may be just a tad longer than the other. All it'll take is for one of the ends or sides to be maybe 1/32" longer, and you'll get the results you're seeing.

DAMHIKT
Thanks Jim, Makes sense. These things have to be perfect to work I'm finding out. Appreciate your input. Alan in Md.

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

I've put mitered frames on many tables...and hate it every time. :mad:

Doesn't really make much difference if the table is square. Don't lose sleep over 1/16"...nobody will see it. I set the saw up to cut a 45, then I cut a couple test pieces and carry them to the table. I cut all the pieces with the saw in the same position, when possible (I don't change from left miter to right...I turn the workpiece upside down). I put two pieces against a corner and check the fit. If it looks good, then I'll cut one end of a 'real piece' and carry it to the table. Using one of the scrap pieces as a guide, I'll temporarily clamp the 'real' piece in place to mark the other end for cutting. Then I sneak up on the cut until it's right, again using one of the test pieces to ensure the length is correct. At this point, I don't care too much about the 'fit' of that miter...if it's off by a pinch I'll cut the next 'real piece' to match up and tune it if necessary...but I want the inside corner to be the correct length. I work my way around the top the same way, using the test pieces. For the last piece, I leave it a bit long and hold it up in place under the top and use the mating pieces to mark the cut lines...then I cut one end and intentionally cut the other end long and sneak up on the final cut, fitting at the tabletop until it's right. I don't rely on the marks or a tape measure or a stop block. It won't fit in the hole if it's too big, and if you cut it too short you make another one (which is why you should make sure the last piece is one of the short ones).

I think it's also important to remember that 'pretty close' is probably good enough. All the time you spend in search of the 'perfect' mitered frame is likely to be for nada the first time the weather changes. And unless the miter just doesn't fit at all, the only people who're gonna notice it will be other woodworkers...and they'll understand.

KC

[Alan Tolchinsky]

I've put mitered frames on many tables...and hate it every time. :mad:

Doesn't really make much difference if the table is square. Don't lose sleep over 1/16"...nobody will see it. I set the saw up to cut a 45, then I cut a couple test pieces and carry them to the table. I cut all the pieces with the saw in the same position, when possible (I don't change from left miter to right...I turn the workpiece upside down). I put two pieces against a corner and check the fit. If it looks good, then I'll cut one end of a 'real piece' and carry it to the table. Using one of the scrap pieces as a guide, I'll temporarily clamp the 'real' piece in place to mark the other end for cutting. Then I sneak up on the cut until it's right, again using one of the test pieces to ensure the length is correct. At this point, I don't care too much about the 'fit' of that miter...if it's off by a pinch I'll cut the next 'real piece' to match up and tune it if necessary...but I want the inside corner to be the correct length. I work my way around the top the same way, using the test pieces. For the last piece, I leave it a bit long and hold it up in place under the top and use the mating pieces to mark the cut lines...then I cut one end and intentionally cut the other end long and sneak up on the final cut, fitting at the tabletop until it's right. I don't rely on the marks or a tape measure or a stop block. It won't fit in the hole if it's too big, and if you cut it too short you make another one (which is why you should make sure the last piece is one of the short ones).

I think it's also important to remember that 'pretty close' is probably good enough. All the time you spend in search of the 'perfect' mitered frame is likely to be for nada the first time the weather changes. And unless the miter just doesn't fit at all, the only people who're gonna notice it will be other woodworkers...and they'll understand.

KC

Thanks KC, that's exactly how I'm going to do it. Your method makes a lot of sense. Now I'm thinking of another method. I've seen tables where it was done just using butt joints instead of miters. I'm not sure they look quite as good but at least they may stay tight. The long sides just covered the ends of the narrow part of the table end. Sound any good? Thanks for all the input. Alan in Md.

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

Thanks KC, that's exactly how I'm going to do it. Your method makes a lot of sense. Now I'm thinking of another method. I've seen tables where it was done just using butt joints instead of miters. I'm not sure they look quite as good but at least they may stay tight. The long sides just covered the ends of the narrow part of the table end. Sound any good? Thanks for all the input. Alan in Md.

If it's a table with a front and rear, such as a sofa table that's going against a wall or a writing desk, I like to miter the front corners and use a butt joint at the rear...with the side pieces going all the way to the back and the rear piece butted into them. KnowwhutImean?

KC

[Alan Tolchinsky]

If it's a table with a front and rear, such as a sofa table that's going against a wall or a writing desk, I like to miter the front corners and use a butt joint at the rear...with the side pieces going all the way to the back and the rear piece butted into them. KnowwhutImean?

KC

That sounds like an interesting way of doing it. It would be easier to get the miters right and you still see no end grain with the table against a wall. Pretty cool. I'm just not sure if that's the look I want but it's another option. If my miters give me migraines this could be my back up plan. Thanks Alan in Md.