Shelf Pin / Hole Jigs

[John Russell]

I have a project requiring a lot of shelf pin holes for cabinets. Plans or suggestions for home made jigs are easy to find, but I am also looking at commercial jigs such as the ones made by Rockler, Veritas, MEG, and Woodhaven. I think a router based jig might made a more consistent hole when a lot of these need to be made, but having never used one, I don't know so I thought I would ask here about experiences with commerical jigs.

The issue for me is repeatability, consistency of the holes, and ease of use. Is a router or drill based jig a clear choice?

Thanks

[Jamie Buxton]

I tried several different methods, but have settled on a jig from Woodhaven. If I had a magic wand, I'd make it a little longer, but otherwise it works just fine.

A plunge router is much better than a drill, IMO. It ensures that the hole is at right angles to the workpiece. The depth stop is secure. The bit never peels up splinters from the wood's surface. Do get a bit designed for this work: a spiral upcut bit.

[tod evans]

john try here;

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=27373

[Rick Schubert]

John,

I have the jig from Rockler that works well for me. As I recall it was about $25. Rockler has a coupon now that is good until 4/23 only at the stores. It is $10 off a purchase over $30.

Rick

[Hoa Dinh]

Do a google search on "WWA Shelf Pin Jig - by Jim Mattson."

I spent an evening making a modified version of it. Works great - fast, clean, and inexpensive.

[Joe Chritz]

I use one just like in the post Tod did.

1/2 guide bushing in a plunge router with a 1/4" downspiral bit. It turned a chunk of brass to 1/2 with a 1/4 end to reposition the jig for long runs. Once you get the hang of finding the holes it is really fast.

Joe

[Jim Becker]

Norm Abram did a wood version similar to the MEG in his "jigs" double episode a few years ago. Check the NYW web site (http://www.newyankee.com/index.shtml) for the plans.

[Dev Emch]

I will make this quick as I have lots of cabinets to finish today.

In various veneer sheet goods, its not uncommon for a drill bit to blow out the hole. Thus, its easier and more accurate to use a plunge router. The edges of the hole are crisp and the hole is actually round.

This is best done using a guide bushing. A 7/16 or 5/8 in Liegh guide bushing on a home made jig works just fine. Just be darn accurate if you make a jig.

The MEG jig is nice as its cnc machined metal. The veritas jig is also nice even though I have not used one. The problem with these jigs is that they are all on a fixed hole spacing. This may or may not be an issue. Often, you find the euro spacing interval being used.

If your looking for a commercial unit to do the job fast and actually with a tad of entertainment, then you need the Festool hole drilling jig for use with the 1010 router. Each hole is dead on accurate. Each hole is spaced perfectly from the previous hole. Each hole is the same depth. Each hole is round and crisp. And the whole process is done in matter of seconds or minutes. With no blow out on thin veneer sheet goods!

Now, if these are kitchen cabinets and not furniture, then you may wish to consider brass plated steel shelf standards inset into 3/16 inch dados. For kitchen cabinet use, this approach not only looks good but its much more durable than the hole method and it provides you an opportunity to reconfigure the box space with items like roll in drawers, shelfs, etc. at any time now or in the future. Holes are actually easier to make and that is why industry finds this approach desireable. Inlaid plated standards cost much more to excute and done extend your profit, thus, they are considered a bad thing today.

[Ken Shoemaker]

Try a peice of pegboard for spacing. Works for me and cheap at twice the price.

[Steve Clardy]

Rockler jig here. Works just fine, consistent hole spacing.
Several size of bits you can choose with it.
7/32, 1/4
I use the 1/4"

[Jim Becker]

I have the Rockler jig and while it's wonderful for spacing, I have a devil of a time with tear-out no matter what kind of drill bit I use. In my copious free time, I intend to build the NYW version I mentioned above 'cause it uses a router for the drilling. Tear-out is NOT your friend when you're doing shelf pin holes.

[Steve Clardy]

I have the Rockler jig and while it's wonderful for spacing, I have a devil of a time with tear-out no matter what kind of drill bit I use. In my copious free time, I intend to build the NYW version I mentioned above 'cause it uses a router for the drilling. Tear-out is NOT your friend when you're doing shelf pin holes.

Drill speed, [fast], and keep the bit sharp.
Rockler must put a fairly cheap brad point in the drill attachment. I sharpen mine with a file. No tearout.

[John Russell]

"If your looking for a commercial unit to do the job fast and actually with a tad of entertainment, then you need the Festool hole drilling jig for use with the 1010 router. Each hole is dead on accurate. Each hole is spaced perfectly from the previous hole. Each hole is the same depth. Each hole is round and crisp. And the whole process is done in matter of seconds or minutes. With no blow out on thin veneer sheet goods!"

I was going this route at first -- well almost this route since I have a OF1400 Router, but apparently it does not work out of the box with the LR32 Jig.... A disappointment otherwise I would have one and be routing away ..... Thanks for the comments.

[Matt Meiser]

I built the NYW jig that Jim mentioned. Works great with a plunge router and 1/4" spiral bit. You could make the jig for whatever spacing you want. Mine is 1" OC, which is how Norm built his, but you could easily adjust for the Euro spacing. The trick would probably be finding the metric router bit.

[Jamie Buxton]

The trick would probably be finding the metric router bit.

If you can't easily find a 5 mm bit, a 3/16" will work just fine. It is only .009" smaller than 5 mm, and no shelf pin I've ever met fits tightly in the hole.

[Jim Becker]

and no shelf pin I've ever met fits tightly in the hole.

So...tell us...how often do you, umm...go out to meet shelf pins? :p :eek: :D :D :D

[Rob Blaustein]

I was going this route at first -- well almost this route since I have a OF1400 Router, but apparently it does not work out of the box with the LR32 Jig.... A disappointment otherwise I would have one and be routing away ..... Thanks for the comments.

The fix to get the OF1400 to work with the LR32 is apparently not complicated. I think it is discussed (with photos) on the Yahoo Festool Owner's Group site.

[Jamie Buxton]

So...tell us...how often do you, umm...go out to meet shelf pins? :p :eek: :D :D :D

Nowadays it is much easier to meet them on-line. www.shelfpinswantlove.com is a good spot.

[Matt Meiser]

Nowadays it is much easier to meet them on-line. www.shelfpinswantlove.com is a good spot.

Jamie, the link doesn't work for me. :rolleyes:

[Bryan Nuss]

I used the "Veritas® Shelf-Drilling Jig" from Lee Valley to drill about 1,600 shelf support holes for my built-in wall shelving last year.

The holes were perfectly aligned and the jig was easy to use. I love it!

[Matt Meiser]

Here's a picture of my version of Norm's jig. The holes are sized for I believe a 5/8" router bushing. The small holes at either end are for a 1/4" dowel and are used to line the jig up when you need to move it to do a longer piece. The slots allow the fence to be adjusted to place the holes a set distance from the edge of the workpiece.

[Fred Voorhees]

I will wholeheartedly reccomend the Rockler jig. I purchased it for use when I was building a massive bookshelf for my bar room project and was blown away by its accuracy. Very nice little jig and it wasn't a lot of dough either.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Eagle America stocks a 5 MM, up cut, spiral, solid carbide , 1/4" shank router bit. I use these with my homemade shelf pin jig all the time.