Friction finishing questions........

[Ken Fitzgerald]

1. When you use tung oil......can you friction finish it like the friction polishes?

2. How well does oak turn?

3. Does tung oil work well with oak?

4. Does Danish oil work well with cherry or oak?

[Corey Hallagan]

I don't think items like that apply well as a friction applied finish. You will get rings in the finish that will need to be sanded back down and then reapplied. I would apply the finish to your wood and just let it soak in, wipe it off, keep applying as the oil get's soaked up. Let it dry over night and buff it with 0000 steel wool. Re apply and do the same thing again if you wish. It needs to then cure if you want to apply any waxes over that. I would say at least several days.
If you are talking a tungoil varnish (tung oil with an oil varnish) apply pretty much the same way. If you have pure tung oil mix it with 3-4 parts mineral spirits.
Danish Oil works well with just about any wood. It will have a soft sheen. Not a high gloss finish. Don't know about turning oak. I expect the endgrain can be a problem. The oil products just need to soak up into the wood and be reapplied until it won't soak up anymore.
Corey

[Andy Hoyt]

When Dennis Peacock replies to this I will agree with whatever he says about oak.

[Bob Noles]

1. When you use tung oil......can you friction finish it like the friction polishes?

2. How well does oak turn?

3. Does tung oil work well with oak?

4. Does Danish oil work well with cherry or oak?

Ken,

1. Like Corey, I would much rather hand rub the tung oil.. I don't think turning would be the best of ideas as you need to saturate the wood and I can just see that being slung all over the place and you would be bonking mad about the mess :eek:

2. Oak can be turned, but it is not the best choice for geezer's. I'd let the young inexperienced crowd play with that wood to gain more life's experiences :D

3. Tung oil will work well with about any wood.

4. Same as #3

I'll spare you and not ask what in the world you are up to this time :p :rolleyes: :)

[Keith Burns]

When Dennis Peacock replies to this I will agree with whatever he says about oak.

I ain't Dennis (thank goodness) but there ain't nothin' wrong with oak !!!

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Well I'm sitting here in Idaho with a glued up oak block.......the LOML loves oak.......she's requested a couple of oak projects off the lathe......now when the person who is the CFO and authorizes the tool purchases....(okay I'll admit it....she physically hands me the money or checkbook and says....go buy it.....note- I'm usually on my knees groveling with my eyes reverantly looking down...so I don't know where she keeps the money or the checkbook) demands a couple of oak projects....bud....the pressure is on!

[Bob Noles]

Ken,

If you are set on pleasing the little lady, I say go for it. All I can say is that oak if very fiborous and my guess that if you just gotta do it, I would have to think of dry rather than green in this situation. I may be off base and hopefully Dennis or someone can come along and correct me if I am. Just seems like dry fibers would be less likey to tear out than wet ones.

btw.... LOML's favorite wood just happens to be oak also ;)

[Ron Ainge]

Ken

In my experience oak is one of the woods that you might want to wait a while before you start turning it. Oak has a real tendency to tear out if you do not have very sharp tools and very light cuts. I made several porjects out of pin oak when I started turning and they have either ended up being returned after I aquired additional skill or they were used to Keep the house warm:confused: . I agree with all of the imformation you recieved on the other questions you ask.

[Curt Fuller]

Ken I've never done any flatwork but I would guess oak on a lathe would be a lot like oak on a table saw, planer, or any other tool. It's open, pourous and usually needs a little extra sanding. But I would agree with your wife that it's awfully pretty and worth the extra effort.

And also, I've never quite figured out what the difference is between danish oil and tung oil. But they both make a nice finish. Friction polishing would probably turn out better using one of the several friction polishes on the market. I like the HUT stuff but there probably isn't much difference in any of them.

[Paul Douglass]

I finished a bowl with tung oil, on the lathe and the finish turned out good. I think if you would do a couple of coats by hand to get the soak in factor and than finish with several coats on the lathe it would be fine. Now, I am new at this and haven't even posted any of the THREE bowls I have made so you might want to take this for what it is worth!