Advice on using the Kel McNaughton CS

[Chris Barton]

I just got the full set of Kel McNaughton center saver cutters and system. Any advice or tips before I put this conglomeration to the test?

Thanks!

Chris

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Remember Chris....some acts are unnatural and punishable by God! Good luck! I've looked at that stuff and it looks spooky!

[Chris Barton]

Remember Chris....some acts are unnatural and punishable by God! Good luck! I've looked at that stuff and it looks spooky!

OK, let's not bring religon into this;) . I have waited a year to get this system and finally did so because I was so bothered by "wasting" the interiors of some very expensive exotics for a bowl. I am a New England Yankee in spirit and hate to waste anything. On the otherhand, I have used power surgical equipment that was less intimidating. And, the instructions, if you want to call them such (2 photocopied sheets and zero pictures) are nearly as useful as a the directions that came with my VCR.

Thanks Ken!

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Good luck with it Chris! I amazes me that you can buy a relatively expensive tool and "no or minimal instructions!" As a relative newcomer to turning, I'm really enjoying learning all the aspects of turning. Luckily for me there was the Richard Raffan videos and Bill G's video. I hope to find time to do my first bowl this weekend. I can't wait to try a hollowform. Another one of those acts.........:rolleyes:

[Andy Hoyt]

Chris - I was looking into these things a while back, but still have not acted on it. Bill G uses it but his video (#1) does not touch on it. But this one (http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=action&key=341-0010) is all about it and comes highly recommended by Jim Ketron.

Hmmm - Still got that Oneway rig?

EDIT: Oops. It's that Cecil guy who has the Oneway Rig. So Cecil, do You still have it?

[David Fried]

On the otherhand, I have used power surgical equipment that was less intimidating. And, the instructions, if you want to call them such (2 photocopied sheets and zero pictures) are nearly as useful as a the directions that came with my VCR.


That's the instructions for the power surgical equipment, right?:rolleyes: :D

Dave Fried

[Cecil Arnold]

Chris, what Andy said about the tape/DVD. Even after watching it twice I still made the bottoms of two centers (of a four bowl hunk) too thin. I understand the intimidation factor, so take things slow, keep the tool firmly in contact with the post/rest and withdraw it often to be sure the chips are clearing.

[Reed Gray]

Chris,
As someone who has all three of the coring systems, the McNaughton is the most versatile one, but because of it, is more difficult to use. Mike Mahoney's DVD is a good start. It is better if you can see someone use it in person rather than just try to figure it out by yourself. I hope to have a DVD out later this year on how to use this system.
Most helpful hints I can give are start out with something green, and not too big, say 3 inches deep and 10 inches diameter. A cured piece of hard maple would be difficult the first time.The smaller knives work easier.
The tool rest must be set so that the blade/cutter is at center height. This is easiest if you make a collar for the tool rest post that will automatically leave the rest at center height.
If you have different speed ranges, use the lower ones as they have more torque (you are removing a 1/2 inch wide shaving with the medium set of cutters). Turn at comfortable speeds, which is in the 300+ range for larger bowls, and up to about 800 for smaller bowls.
Aim shallow: I use a recess to chuck mount my bowls, and usually have the point aimed at the chuck jaws (the curve of the blade will round it out so that it doesn't actually hit the jaws, but this is just kind of a guide line). While you are making the cut, the blade will want to track towards the outside of the cut. All 3 systems do this to some extent, but since this one isn't 'captured' it is up to you to counter this. Simply pull the handle towards you as the cut progresses, putting pressure on the inside of the cut. This requires little pressure. Look cdown into the cut as it progresses, and you can see where it is going, either too shallow, too deep, or perfect. You can correct the track if needed. Once in the cut, if you are pulling on the handle, the blade will almost self feed. If the chips aren't flowing out of the cut, clear them by pulling the blade out. When you put the blade back in, if it is in the bottom and not cutting, there is a shaving over the point, so clear again. If you have to force or fight it, there is something wrong.
If the blade tracks too much to the outside, and you can't correct it all the way, you can try to come back to the top and peel a little off the inside. If this doesn't work, you can peel a little off the outside. You can also bump the tool rest slightly to the inside.
Perhaps the other single most important thing to remember is with the tool rest, there are the fingers which keep the blade from rolling over on its side, and the bar across the back. KEEP THE BLADE ENGAGED WITH THE BAR AT ALL TIMES. There is a lot of down pressure on the cutter (more or less depending on how big of a bowl you are coring/how far out the blade is reaching. This is best countered by letting the bar counter the pressure rather than trying to armstrong it.
Coring does save time and wood. Most of the time saved is in turning the core, as most of the shaping is already done and you just have to flatten the bottom, and make one or two passes on the outside of the bowl and you are ready to reverse and core again. They say that it helps reduce the amount of shavings, but I can't tell. I think I turn more bowls than ever so there are more shavings than ever.
Of course there is a lot more to the story, but practice is needed. If I can be of any more help, let me know.
robo hippy

[Charles McKinley]

Welcome Reed!

I look forward to your input.