TS3650 Help

[Darren Vass]

Hi Folks.

I'm putting together a Ridgid TS3650 table saw. This may seem obvious to some of you, but I'm not sure. I've put together the support base. It has screw in leveling feet secured by hex nuts on both sides. How does one level with this setup? When the saw is put together, it is going to be so heavy. How do you level the saw with this system? Which nut do you loosen? How do you elevate or lower the heavy table post construction?

Thanks,

Darren

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Darren....You loosen the top nut.....turn the bottom nut to raise or lower the table and then tighten the top nut to secure it at that position.

[Larry Cooke]

Hello Darren,

You need a level of some sort to determine which side or corner is low. Once you put a level on the table you'll know what side(s) or corner(s) is low and that will determine which feet need to be turned and which way to turn the foot. If a corner is low then turn that corners foot clockwise (looking at it from the top) to raise the corner. Takes some playing around with but you'll figure it out. You can do the reverse on high sides too (I mention this incase you run out of thread on the foot.)

Hope this makes sense.

Larry

[Edit] I forgot to mention you tighten the lock nut on top to keep there...

[Chiz Eisenhuth]

Hi Darren, I have the same machine and when you have the weight of the machine supported by the Herc-U-Lift there won't be any pressure on those foot-bolts and the nuts. It's a bit of a chore to get the lift set up properly but for those of us with a small shop it's a dream to use. I would suggest that you search the Ridgid forums site. Go to one of the three woodworking forums. Those guys have been improving and solving issues on their equipment for a long time. While it's not the activity level of this group they are helpful and friendly as a fraternity of like-minded folks tend to be. Here ya go: http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/index.php

Best of luck,
Chiz:D

[Charlie Plesums]

My garage ... er.... shop/studio floor is remarkably uneven (but not anything you can see by looking at it). When I had my 3612 (predecessor to the 3650), I gave up on perfect level because I never got the saw in exactly the same place... in fact, I had to move the saw based on some of the cuts. If it would set down (off the Herc-U-Lift) without rocking, I counted myself lucky.

[Darren Vass]

I'm quit for tonight. My back is fried. Uprighting the talbe from the upside down position was a killer! It is now upright, but the wings are not levelled or tightened yet.

I need to get rid of the grease or gunk on the table top. Not sure what to use.

Again, thanks for the help. I will post pics when done.

Darren

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Darren.........I own a TS3650. I cleaned the gunk off mine using mineral spirits IIRC. It's been a good saw for the money! Good luck with setting yours up!

[Vaughn McMillan]

Darren, I'm another TS3650 owner. The sore back and tired brain will be worth it when you're done. Ken, Larry and Chiz pretty much explained the levelling feet, and with a fresh brain tomorrow it'll all make sense. My levelling feet are only hand tight. When the saw is on the wheels (the Herc-U-Lift pedal pressed down), I can adjust them if necessary.Let us know if you need pictures.

To add to what Charlie mentioned about uneven floors, in nearly a year of using my TS3650, I've never worried about trying to get the table top level. Flat, yes, but not level. Getting the extension wings even and flush with the rest of the saw was pretty easy, and it's stayed nice and flat despite being moved around the shop. As Ken suggested, mineral spirits will remove the gunky stuff from the iron.

Have fun with your new toy - I'm betting you'll be happy with it. :)

- Vaughn

[Darren Vass]

BTW, for those of you, like me, who have their workshops in their basements, know this:

The TS3650 is Solodoable. I backed my new Honda Odyssey machine/lumber mover (GREAT RIDE-good road handling, gear shift ratios and power to spare) right up to my garage door, opened the Odyssey's lift back door, and sadly found that I could not even budge the box! I guess I overestimated my strength. After opening the box, I was happy to see that this baby came in parts that removed quite easily. After 20 or so trips up and down my basement stairs (and maybe 5#s less around my waist) I was only left with the box and the table in it. This was very easy to get to the edge of the carpeted stairs and slide down to the basement. I can't describe how relieved I felt after being able to accomplish this task. I had near depression (and several Martinis) thinking about getting one of these 400# behemoths down the stairs. This machine isn't quite that heavy, but it's still in the 300+# range.

They'll never be able to kick sand in my face again :cool: ........well maybe, I didn't even know how to level the feet :o

[Charlie Plesums]

...I need to get rid of the grease or gunk on the table top. Not sure what to use....Darren

Most likely the "grease or gunk" is "Cosmolene." First choice for removal is kerosene, second choice diesel fuel, third choice mineral spirits (paint thinner), but the difference between first and third choice is small - use what you have available. An old paint brush and a tin can of fluid work wonders with a LOT of paper towels.

As soon as the cosmolene is off, be sure to wax the cast iron (I use furniture wax - never auto wax or anything containing silicone) so it doesn't rust.

[Lou Morrissette]

Darren,

The other folks have pretty much answered your questions but when you get this baby set up your gonna love it. I will repeat that after you get it clean ( I used mineral spirits ) , do use Johsons wax or equivalent on the top. Good luck with it.

Lou

[Darren Vass]

Hey Charlie:

I should not use Turtle Carnuba wax? Which furniture polish? Any specific brand names or product names.

Thanks,

Darren

[Charlie Plesums]

Hey Charlie:

I should not use Turtle Carnuba wax? Which furniture polish? Any specific brand names or product names.

Thanks,

Darren

I slammed auto wax because so many of them contain silicone, which raises havoc with finishes - avoid it in any form in the wood shop (for example I gave away my can of spray silicone lubricant).

I use MinWax paste finishing wax, only because that is what they had at the store when I needed some. Almost any past furniture wax should be fine - I went and looked at my can, but until I looked, would have guessed it was Johnsons.