1/2" to 3/4" pocket hole question

[Rob Blaustein]

I've been using pocket holes a lot recently to join 3/4" ply to 3/4" ply, but I want to join a 1/2" panel to a 3/4" base. I will do some tests on scraps but thought I'd get some input from people here on two questions:
--is it reasonable to use pocket holes for this (plus glue)?
--if it is, is one of the two ways below better than the other? BTW-visibility of the screw isn't an issue.

Rob
35169

[Doug Shepard]

I suspect version A might be easier depending on what pocket hole jig you have. I've just got a cheapie, but it's set to pretty much deal with 3/4" stuff unless you make provisions for offsetting the jig with a spacer block. If your's is like mine, Option A would still put the hole exiting midway thru the 3/4" stock. Option B would have the hole exiting pretty close to the edge of the 1/2" stock unless you take steps to offset it.

[CPeter James]

I have a Kreg jig and I would use option "B" as it gives you more meat to sink the screw into. The Kreg jig is adjustable for different thicknesses and I do 1/2 frequently.

CPeter

[Frank Pellow]

I have the Kreg jig and have used option B (with glue). It worked well.

[Rob Blaustein]

I also have the Kreg jig (v 2000). I like the idea of having more stock for the screw to grab in option B, and since it also sounds like it does work well in practice I'll do it that way. Thanks for the replies.

[Dev Emch]

This is a tuff pickle. I use lots of pocket screws on the INSIDE in combination with glue and dado joints. Visability for me is an issue but more often then not, exterior pockets are hidden by adjacent cabinets, etc. Items like skirt doublers can be pocket screwed and the screw is never visable because the skirt mouldings or face frames laminate directly ontop of the skirt doublers. I dont use pocket screws on the face frames or doors. Those are traditional. Period.

At any rate, here is my 5 cents worth. I like option B but option B has an issue. Due to the thin material, there is not a whole lot of real estate to work with on the 1/2 inch stock. Thus, your pockets tend to be a bit shallow and you wind up using pan head screws in place of the normal washer head screws. Using the right screw length, option A may be a better joint but option B flows better.

Another option you can try is this. I have a homemade jig that I use with a 3/8 inch router bit in conjuction with a 5/8 inch guide bushing. I set it to plunge about 1/4 inch deep. I use this jig on flat surfaces where one baltic birch meets another slab of baltic birch at 90 degrees. I follow up with a the same jig and router but using a 1/8 inch router bit to plunge a pilot hole. This gives me exact and neat placement of pocket screws for a professional look and the router has never had an episode of hole edge blow out. Often, I will use this to attach 3/4 inch baltic to 1/2 inch baltic where the router cuts the screw hole recesses in the 3/4 inch stock and the screw drives up the center of the 1/2 inch baltic. Awsome results when used with dados and glue!!!!