Town Talk Orange Wax buffing question

[Matt Day]

I just applied a coat of the Orange Wax from Lee Valley, per the instructions (apply sparingly, let sit for at least 3 minutes, buff with soft cloth). The problem is I see some streaks left over from the initial application.

I've burnished quite a bit, but maybe I need something with a little more "bite" thank a simply cotton cloth? I see there are quite a few buffing applicators available, which should I use? Could I just use some 0000 steel wool?

Thanks! I'll post pics when I'm happy with it!

[Matt Day]

Nobody has advice on buffing a wax finish?:confused: (I still can't get the advanced search engine to work for me)

[Cecil Arnold]

Matt, I'm not familiar with Orange Wax, however depending on the finish you are looking for I would not use steel wool (unless you want a satin finish). If you are looking at high gloss then you might want to try a wool buffing bonnet. I have seen such available for the PC ROS, along with a wax applicator, or you might consider a cheap car buffer/polisher from Sears. I've used both with good results.

[Matt Day]

Thanks for the info Cecil,

I'm going for a high gloss finish rather than satin.

I actually have a cheap buffer/polisher. Do I have to worry about swirlies?

[Cecil Arnold]

Matt, I haven't had a problem with that. As bad as it might sound, I put on my final coat of finish (usually lacquer or varnish) let it sit for some time, followed by wet sanding to 1200-2000 grit. Then I will put on some car polishing compound (liquid, with no silicone) and buff it with the buffer/polisher. After that I will use wax (I have had good luck with Minwax even though others seem to dislike Minwax products) buffing it with the buffer. This seems to get the wax application smooth and even. After that I buff the wax off with the polishing bonnet. The Sears buffer I have has a ROS type motion. I think I would be extra careful that it (the polishing bonnet) was clean since any foreign object might really give you some bad results.

[Joe Chritz]

I wonder if it is like the carnuba wax I used to use on my street rod.

If it said dry for 3 minutes it did not mean 4 minutes. The stuff was a bugger to buff by hand once it got hard. If hard elbow grease will take out the marks that would most likely be the problem.

I have never use anything but johnson's on finished wood but I am assuming that wax waxes like wax waxes. :D

I would stay away from steel wool also. I used to use a slow speed buffer on cars. A felt bonnet on a ROS would do the same thing I imagine.

Good luck

Joe