18" Jet Bandsaw Question

[George Kretschmann]

Tell me what causes the band to wander toward the fence while cutting with the grain? The guide wheels are tight, the band is at the proper tension. The band is the original that came on the machine. Am I pushing to fast for the cut, when I cut across the grain I have no problem.:confused:
thanks. GK

[Vaughn McMillan]

...The band is the original that came on the machine...
George, I think that might be the root of the problem. Have you seen the same issue with a new blade? Also, is the blade tracking in the correct spot on the wheels? It should be running in the middle of the wheel, as I understand things.

HTH -

- Vaughn

[Ted Christiansen]

George,

That is one of the mysteries of the bandsaw and part of the learning curve. There are a few reasons:

1. Because the wheels have a crown the blade might be on the side of the wheel toward you. In that case the blade teeth will be pointing toward the fence (though you wont be able to see it). If on the other side the teeth will be pointing away from the fence.
2. As the blade gets worn the set on the teeth is altered, which can also cause the blade to veer to a particular side.
3. The blade is dull

There are two ways to compensate:
1. Adjust the fence for blade drift. Take a 3" tall piece of stock about 15" long and draw a line down the middle accurately. Now cut freehand along this line halfway - hold the board steady in this position and turn off the saw. Draw a line on the table on the left side of the board. Align the fence to this line (loosen the bolts to allow the fence to move). You may have to fine tune this one way or the other to get it just right.

2. Adjust the upper wheel tilt to put the blade exactly on the center of the crown. This is difficult (I think) - I have been unsuccessful so far doing this.

FYI - the blade the came with the saw is junk - replace it immediately. I have found the Woodcraft blades to be a good value. To get more life out of them I sharpen them with a Dremel tool with a stone.

Ted

[Dave Falkenstein]

The blade that came on my Jet 14" band saw has never been used. It hangs on the wall, just waiting for the appropriate job, like cutting sheetrock maybe. Get yourself some Timberwolf blades, and I'll bet your proiblem disappears.

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/

[George Kretschmann]

Vaughn, Ted and Dave the blade is not to sharp to the touch. The blabe is tracking in the center of the wheels I think a new quality blade will fix the problem. Now....which one to get, I'm using a 3/4" wide blade now. There are so many to choose from any suggestions or what is the general rule to follow?:confused: The machine is basically new, maybe 3 hours on it tops. Thanks for the responses guys...George

[George Kretschmann]

The blade that came on my Jet 14" band saw has never been used. It hangs on the wall, just waiting for the appropriate job, like cutting sheetrock maybe. Get yourself some Timberwolf blades, and I'll bet your proiblem disappears.

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/

I ordered the catalog.

[Dave Falkenstein]

Vaughn, Ted and Dave the blade is not to sharp to the touch. The blabe is tracking in the center of the wheels I think a new quality blade will fix the problem. Now....which one to get, I'm using a 3/4" wide blade now. There are so many to choose from any suggestions or what is the general rule to follow?:confused: The machine is basically new, maybe 3 hours on it tops. Thanks for the responses guys...George

Call the folks at Suffolk and take their advice on blades, depending on your uses of the saw. They are very helpful and really know their business.

[Paul Atwood]

I'll second the motion on calling them, spend an hour or three on their website and and another hour or three with the print version of their catalog when your order arrives (not long after you called). There is a lot to know about using bandsaws and understanding blades.

My number one issue with bandsaw blades is the unexpected - whether that is hidden metal that strips a few teeth or feeding it material that isn't flat or secure and slam dunks, distorting the blade in the process. TW's seem to have a softer body than others.

It is very easy to ruin a blade. And don't forget that blades are consumables - and you will wear out steel blades faster than carbide.

Overall, I am very satisfied with their blades.

Paul

[Jim Becker]

The blade is what wanders due to uneven set of the teeth. An inexpensive/cheap blade will likely lead more than a better quality one, but they all will over time as the set changes from use and tension on the wheels. Buy good blades and you'll have less of a problem...and "good" doesn't have to mean the most expensive. Timberwolf blades from Suffolk Machinery (http://www.suffolkmachinery.com) are very reasonably priced and I find they work very well. The folks will also match you up with the best blade format(s) for the kind of cutting you do and your specific machine.

[George Kretschmann]

One other question...exactly how firm are the guide rollers suppose to be on the blade? Do you set this with a feeler guage or eyeball it.:confused:

[Cecil Arnold]

George, use a $1 bill as your feeler gauge, unless of course you have and want to use a $100. bill.

[George Kretschmann]

I think I will use a $100.00 It is usually only $100.00 more. Thanks:)