Question on wood grain movement for butcher block

[Kyle Stiefel]

I have a question concerning a rolling butcher block table I am about to glue up. The top is primarily end grain bubinga, wrapped in walnut with a mix of heart and sapwood.

So my question is since the top is all endgrain do you think it is possible to wrap the top in ash with end grain mitered. In other words the grain will be running opposite the whole top and I am thinking this might open the frame joints with changes in humidity etc. I this is a problem I can simple cut up the ash but I liked the way the grain ran the long length.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Kyle

[Carl Eyman]

Well, not really, but he did one a few years ago and what he did was make his block with tapered sides. In other words, it was a section of a 4 sided pyramid. He then made his stand for it with 4 sides ( I guess they had mitered corners) but it had the same taper to match the block. That way if the block expanded it would pop up in its holder. I'm not sure the friction might not be too much to overcome, but that was how Norm did it.

Maybe someone has his plans and can tell us what the taper was. It was a bunch of years ago.

[Vaughn McMillan]

Kyle, in my limited experience, I've run into problems framing an end grain cutting board with a face grain border. Here's what happened after the first good swing in atmospheric humidity:

35145

My best guess is that this problem was caused by two factors: the opposing grain direction (end vs. face) and the thinness of the cutting board (about 5/8"). So far, my subsequent boards (about 1" thick and no opposing grain) have not shown any problems. (Knock on polyethylene. ;) ) You may not have as much of an issue if your chopping block is thick, but I'm betting you'll still see different movement between the end grain and the face grain parts.

- Vaughn

[Kyle Stiefel]

My best guess is that this problem was caused by two factors: the opposing grain direction (end vs. face) and the thinness of the cutting board (about 5/8"). So far, my subsequent boards (about 1" thick and no opposing grain) have not shown any problems. (Knock on polyethylene. ;) ) You may not have as much of an issue if your chopping block is thick, but I'm betting you'll still see different movement between the end grain and the face grain parts.



Vaughn,

Thanks for the reply and picture. I have thought about it and sometimes I guess you already know the answer if you have to ask, I was hoping it would be no problem (knowing it most likely would be).

That being said, I will end grain the ash border to match the block top. The meat of the table is 2" thick, 15" wide and 36" long with the the border probably overhanging the table by 1.5" or so. Ok, time for some fun after work.

Kyle

[Vaughn McMillan]

Sounds like a cool project, Kyle. Be sure to post pics when it's done.

- Vaughn

[Mark Rios]

I made a cutting board a couple of years ago with all endgrain in the cutting surface with a maple border and haven't had any movement problems. I made two actually, twins if you will. I gave one away as a gift and kept this one. The field wood is maple, walnut, and purple heart...all endgrain. The border is maple. Again, no problems with either board.

[Kyle Stiefel]

I made a cutting board a couple of years ago with all endgrain in the cutting surface with a maple border and haven't had any movement problems. I made two actually, twins if you will. I gave one away as a gift and kept this one. The field wood is maple, walnut, and purple heart...all endgrain. The border is maple. Again, no problems with either board.

Mark,

Great design but now you have me curious.

What was the thickness of your board?

What type of glue did you use?

Thanks.

[Mark Rios]

Mark,

Great design but now you have me curious.

What was the thickness of your board?

What type of glue did you use?

Thanks.


Thanks. 1 3/4" thick and Titebond II.