Tablesaw blades

[Jacob Snow]

I am getting a new tablesaw (should be delivered tomorrow) and i am wondering the best all around blade to use. I have been reading and hearing that thin kerf blades aren't the best to get since the can deflect more easily. I am looking to spend about 50$ on a blade and was kind of looking for a good all around blade the doesn't have much tearout and such, good for ripping and cross cutting.

Anyone have any suggestions?

[Lee Schierer]

Try looking at Freud blades. They are low priced and do an excellent job of cutting. I would suggest you get two blades, a 24 tooth for ripping and a 60 tooth for crosscutting. A LU82M 10X60T TCG BLD for cross cutting and a 10"X24T THIN KERF RIP SAWBLADE for ripping. You should be able to buy the pair for about $80. A combination blade will not do either job as well as a dedicated blade. Thin kerf blades also are not a problem. I use one all the time on my contractor saw and get straight smooth rip cuts. You shouldn't have to use a thin kerf for cross cuts.

[tod evans]

jacob, i`m not a thin kerf fan. in the price bracket you give freud is going to be a safe bet, if you don`t mind a couple more dollars amana is good stuff too. dedicated blades really are best...02 tod

[Scott Vigder]

Also for a few dollars more look at the Forrest Woodworker I or II. The cuts are so beautiful you can usually go right to your 320 grit finishing sandpaper.

[Russ Filtz]

I second the regular kerf. A thin blade can oscillate on you compromising a consistent cut. you could use dampeners on the blade to cure that, but then you can't raise the blade fully.

Also like the Forrest products (on my saw now), but they're more than a few dollars more!

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I use a couple of blades I have left over from a machine tool application. They are 100 tooth 10" non ferrous metal blades (NFM).

I really like them and use no other blades either for ripping or crosscutting. they leave NO tool marks and cut like it was free.

[Steve Clardy]

I run mainly Freud thin kerfs. Not a problem on blade deflection.

[Don Morris]

I've found that when I changed blades from my thin kerf to the regular kerf, the measurement of my setup system was off just enough to be a pain. I liked being able to line everything up on the cut edge of my cross cut sled or the edge of my miter cut off sled. Going between regular 1/8" and thin kerfs was enough of a pain having to readjust the measurements that the savings in wood and other supposed advantages of the thin kerf blade just weren't there. I recommend 2 of the same kerf blades: a rip for rough and whatever you can afford if price is your guide. But eventually, buy a WWII...regular kerf...best cut I've seen.

Don M

[scott spencer]

Hi Jacob - Blade deflection with thin kerf's is not typically a problem with the higher quality blades in my experience, and there's definitely a benefit for saws with motors < 3hp. American Woodworker has an excellent article in their Nov 2005 issue #118 about saw blades. They essentially said that modern high quality TK's cut as well as full kerfs. If I had a cabinet saw I'd use the full kerf, but find that my motor works noticeably easier with the TK's.

I currently use a Forrest WWII 40T TK for about 80% of the cuts, then use a DeWalt 24T TK ripper for thick ripping.

The Freud LU86 is a very good general purpose 40T blade for < $40. The Forrest is ~ $80 but is outstanding IMHO. The DeWalt DW7657 40T is real bargain at $50 but is only available in a full kerf. The Freud F410 is also said to be comparable to the Forrest, but is also only available in a full kerf and tends to run in the $90.

What saw are you getting?

[Jacob Snow]

I was able to get this blade for about 65$. I only have a 1hp motor, not sure of that makes a difference. is this a decent blade?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223VQ/002-8027384-0696029?v=glance&n=228013

[scott spencer]

I was able to get this blade for about 65$. I only have a 1hp motor, not sure of that makes a difference. is this a decent blade?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223VQ/002-8027384-0696029?v=glance&n=228013

It's a great blade and you got it at a great price, but I fear your saw will labor with the full kerf. Ultimately the call is yours, but I'd see if I could get the TK version instead.

p.s. How did you swing it for $65? ($30 CC app discount?)

[Jacob Snow]

Why 40 vs 60 tooth?

[Jim Davenport]

I vote for spending a little extra for the WWII. I have the thin kerf version with a Forrest stablizer on my Jet Contractors saw. I've been extremely pleased with it.

[Mark Singer]

The Dewalt 7657 is really good....very close to a WWII and under $50..

[Dave Falkenstein]

I use a couple of blades I have left over from a machine tool application. They are 100 tooth 10" non ferrous metal blades (NFM).

I really like them and use no other blades either for ripping or crosscutting. they leave NO tool marks and cut like it was free.

Cliff - You can rip with a 100 tooth blade??? Plywood???

[scott spencer]

Why 40 vs 60 tooth? There's a fair amount of science involved with blade technology and alot of information to decipher for correct selection....tooth count, hook angles, type of grind, relief angles, carbide quality, sharpness,etc., all contribute. If all variables of blade technology were equal (they're usually not from blade to blade), a 40T blade seems to have the biggest sweet spot for versatility and compromise between ripping capability and crosscut capability from one blade. A 60T blade that's identical to a 40T blade except for number of teeth, should cut cleaner than the 40T, but will not feed as quickly which can lead to burning...especially for ripping, and won't handle thicker stock as well. A lower tooth count will typically hog through thicker material better, but the cut often isn't as clean. A dedicated 24T rip blade is great for thick material where the 40T labors more, but they tend not to leave a glue ready cut like a 40T will....a 30T glue line ripper will leave a glue ready cut, but tends not to handle the thickest materials well.

The saw being used and the application are significant factors in blade selection. Cut quality in regards to detectable scoring and tearout is a different aspect than the feedrate characteristics of a blade. Big 3hp cabinet saws are alot less sensitive about blade choice in general b/c they can power through situations that might bog a smaller saw with less than optimum blade. As an example, there are folks who use 30T glue line blades for ripping 2" stock with no problem b/c they have sufficient power to do so, even though those blades are typically not recommended for cutting stuff that thick. They are also people who use 60T blades for ripping. Both those blades are likely to bog a smaller saw or result in burning b/c of slow feedrate. HTH

[Gary Curtis]

In a post here about 5 months ago, I asked the same question. In particular, I wanted feedback on the Everlast brand of cutting blades.

More than a few SMC folks chimed in enthusiastically about Everlast. The blades are sold only through sharpening shops. If comparing them to Forrest, it seemed that the opinion was that Everlast are just about as good, but for about 30-40% less money.

Another brand that I hear good things about is Sysitamtic.

Gary Curtis

[Jim Bell]

I have a Forrest WWll on my unisaw. All my blades are thin kerf except for the ones that came on the saw which come off immediately upon set up. I use those to cut crap the neighbors bring over.The WWll gives a mirror finish ond hard wood. I have never had problem with deflection except when using the blades that came on the saw originally. I also have a Bosch 10'' portable saw. I use a 71/4'' circular saw blade on that. It requires a lot less power and the wood just glides through like butter. Hope this is of good use,
Jim

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Cliff - You can rip with a 100 tooth blade??? Plywood???
Yes Yes Oh YES !!

I don't use any other blade ( unless you count the dado)

Only time they have bogged down was in 6" sq' green spruce PT posts.