MKII guide set

[John Kain]

I just got a couple of my handplane blades sharpened for me. 2 blades, 20 bucks. I'm thinking I'd rather just do it myself from now on. I don't use chisels or planes enough to justify one of the expensive MKII or Tormek systems. But I do want to look at simple guide/waterstone sharpeners.

I'm looking at this set up from Lee Valley with the MKII guide for $68.50. I'd appreciate any insight you might be able to give me...........

Thanks.....

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32968&cat=1,43072,43078,45936

[Brian Hale]

It's a Top Notch system! I'm just getting into hand plane use and what i've found thus far is that a sharp plane blade is a requirement or tear out becomes a problem. Doing a touch up on my BUJ means i need to maintain a consistant bevel angle and using the LV MKII guide is simple and fast. I can pull the blade out, touch it up on some 600 grit wet/dry paper and be back to work in just a few minutes. It's reapeatable, simple and fast, everything i'd hoped it would be.

You may want to go with the sandpaper method (aka scary sharp) instead of water/oil stones as i find i get better results in less time with no mess. All you need is a flat work surface like a tablesaw or jointer bed.

Brian :)

[Dave Anderson NH]

Hi John, If you are going to own and use chisels, handplanes, scrapers, and other edge tools you will definately need to learn to sharpen. Sharpening tools is what is often refered to as a gateway skill in woodworking. Without the ability to sharpen, your tools are useless after they become dull the first time. Having paid to have it done is fine if you now carefully examine and test out the sharpened blades and discover what sharp is really about. I would suggest that the LV Mark II guide is a decent place to start, but I would also recommend that you buy either Leonard Lee's book on sharpening, available thru Lee Valley and elsewhere, or alternately Tom Lie-Nielsen's book on sharpening published by Taunton Press. Both books will define sharp for you and offer great insight into the options available in sharpening systems. They will both also offer specific techniques and methodology on how to sharpen specific types of tools.

All of your future ability to use and enjoy hand tools depends on learning to sharpen. It is not an optional skill, it is absolutely necessary. Sharpening is not something you do and then not worry about in the future. Sharpening is a constant process that you will do innumerable times in the future-- it never ends. You sharpen a tool, as you use it abrasion and dulling begins on the cutting edge, it stops working right and you sharpen again-- this sequence repeats forever.

If you can find the time and the money -- take a course and learn from someone proficient. It will save you time, money, and frustration. Nothing beats hands on instruction with its instant feedback and correction. If there is anyone in your area who can mentor, try and find them, instruction doesn't always have to cost money. Most woodworkers are happy to help out and pass along their skills.

THe LV Mark II is a very good guide, but knowledge and instruction is still necessary.

End Sermon

[John Kain]

Dave,

I have Lee's book on order right now from amazon. Funny coinsidence.

[harry strasil]

Pardon my ignorance, but what is all the hype about honing guides. To me the important part is getting the blade ground square and with the proper angle and hollow grind to start with. If it's not ground right to start with, what good is honing going to do.

End of Rant, I guess I spend to much time in the blacksmith shop. LOL

[Mike Wenzloff]

Pardon my ignorance, but what is all the hype about honing guides. To me the important part is getting the blade ground square and with the proper angle and hollow grind to start with. If it's not ground right to start with, what good is honing going to do.

End of Rant, I guess I spend to much time in the blacksmith shop. LOL
I don't think there's an ignorant bone in ya, Harry.

Different time, different experience. In lieu of a grinder, a honing guide on a course stone is what is used to square/establish the bevel of an edge tool.

If my wife, who is a turner, has her Tormek out, I use it. Else I tend to use a stationary belt sander to redo a bevel. Quick, little to no heat.

My encouragement to you, John, is along the lines of Dave's response. If there is an SMC'er near you who knows well enough how to sharpen, buy the beverage of their choice and get together.

The LV guide is a good guide. Probably the best out there. Couple that with some stones or float glass/MDF and sandpaper or loose diamond grit and you'll be able to sharpen up a storm.

If you have a belt sander or a grinder, use one to do the coarse work. Use the guide to refine the edge. Eventually you will have enough confidence to freehand, which is a great timesaver. From there, little changes or corrections with the guide will be all you need.

Take care, Mike

[John Kain]

I don't think there's an ignorant bone in ya, Harry.

Different time, different experience. In lieu of a grinder, a honing guide on a course stone is what is used to square/establish the bevel of an edge tool.

If my wife, who is a turner, has her Tormek out, I use it. Else I tend to use a stationary belt sander to redo a bevel. Quick, little to no heat.

My encouragement to you, John, is along the lines of Dave's response. If there is an SMC'er near you who knows well enough how to sharpen, buy the beverage of their choice and get together.

The LV guide is a good guide. Probably the best out there. Couple that with some stones or float glass/MDF and sandpaper or loose diamond grit and you'll be able to sharpen up a storm.

If you have a belt sander or a grinder, use one to do the coarse work. Use the guide to refine the edge. Eventually you will have enough confidence to freehand, which is a great timesaver. From there, little changes or corrections with the guide will be all you need.

Take care, Mike

Mike, I've got a high speed 8" grinder. I don't have enough confidence in my ability NOT to eat a blade up using it...............

[Mike Wenzloff]

Well, ultimately we need to trust in what we know about ourselves and our equipment...So don't use it. Actually, it would be best if it were a slow speed one anyway.

There is plenty of time for beginning somewhere, anywhere. As your confidence grows, you will change how you sharpen and perhaps even what you use to do it with.

The easiest method to get started using is the LV guide and sandpaper, something we all have laying around. It will produce a wonderful finish on your edge tools, and that's the point.

Take care, Mike