Since we're talking about saw blades

[Mike Schwing]

Do others have problems with dado shims slipping in between the threads of the arbor? I find it terribly frustrating, as it bends the shims and prevents the blade stacks from snugly fitting together. It worries me to the point where I occasionally use a router instead.

I have a no name dado stack right now but will improve that situation in the very near future.

[Don Farr]

Hi Mike, I have not had that problem with mine, but now you mention it I don't know why not. I have had every other problem you could possibly have in a wwing shop.
When I think about it, cutting dado's with the TS is one thing I can do well. Hope I don't jinx myself, I will be cutting some in the BS table tonight. :eek:

[Ken Salisbury]

It worries me to the point where I occasionally use a router instead.<p>


That is the only way I do it (True Grip clamp/straight edge & router).<p>
I have a no name dado stack right now but will improve that situation in the very near future.<p>


I have a good Freud set collecting dust for 8 years - I'll sell it to ya reasonable. :D

[scott spencer]

Hi Mike - I've had the exact same problem with the thinner shims on my Freud SD208 dado. The thicker ones seem fine. My brother's a machinist and I've asked him to make a couple of replacements. Do you suppose we're tightening the arbor nut down too tight?

[Richard Hash]

Spend $8 or so and get the magnetic shims. You slap them on the blades and they stay put. Presto - no more shims in threads on arbor.

[John Tarro]

Same problem with the thin plastic shims. I have not found a solution to the problem. I do have brass shims but have not found really thin shims like those available in plastic.

[Byron Trantham]

I own the Forrest dato set that came with plastic shims. I haven't experienced the problem you mention but I do loose them into the bottom of my cabinent saw beause they are "U" shapped and tend to fall off the arbor at the worst time - when I'm trying to use them :mad: . What I did figure out is to rub them on my clothes to create static electricity and thereby creating a "magnet". Haven't lost one since.

I see someone mentioned magnetic shims. THAT sounds like great solution.

[Bruce Page]

I see someone mentioned magnetic shims. THAT sounds like great solution.

I agree, I have the Jesada set and the thinner shims are a problem. A magnetic shim sounds like the perfect solution but I’ve never seen them in any catalogs. Where can I find them??

It matters not whether you win or lose; what matters is whether I win or lose. -- Darrin Weinberg

[Richard Hash]

Mike, Bruce,
You can get the magnetic dado shims from several places - use Google to search for "magnetic dado shims". I'm pretty sure (??) I got mine from Freud about 10 years ago.

I know www.thewoodworkerschoice.com (http://www.thewoodworkerschoice.com) has them ($15! -they've gone up!), as well as other places (no affiliation, just found 'em with Google). I think Systimatic dado sets come with magnetic shims.

They have really worked well for me, I haven't even thought about the problem in years.

I keep little scraps of paper with my dado set with my "recipes" for common width dados that tell me which blades plus which shims to use...

[Todd Burch]

I have copper shims, and they have fallen in the threads a time or two. It can really screw up your cuts if you're not paying attention. I have learned to put my inner blade on, and then before any chippers, I install all the shims I will use. I have a PM66 and the arbor shoulder is long enough that with just the inner cutter on, the shims can still sit on the shoulder. But, they still are a pain to put on and off. But again, when you need 'em, you need 'em.