Need help with a cut

[Alex Berkovsky]

I need to cut out a piece of the bridle joint on a leg, but not sure how to make the cut. I have shaded the cut I need to make in this picture (http://a0.cpimg.com/image/4A/23/56838730-ca03-01480200-.jpg)

[Jamie Buxton]

I'd probably cut most of the way with the table saw, cut the rest of the way with a handsaw, and clean up with a chisel if the hand saw work wasn't quite perfect. The end cut would likely just be a chisel.

[Dave Richards]

I think I'd cut along the lines as much as I could with a hand saw being careful not to cut into the other leg. Then I think I'd work the rest away with a chisel.

You could also waste away with a router but I'd still saw along the lines to avoide chipout.

[Alex Berkovsky]

I'd probably cut most of the way with the table saw, cut the rest of the way with a handsaw...I was thinking of a handsaw cut, but thought that there is not much room for a stroke.

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Alex--I just love it when my design creates problems with execution!

I personally would have allowed extra width, ripped the opposite side off altogether, cut the shaded portion and glued the side back on. Else redesigned the joint.

Hope the above isn't seen as critical of your design. I do this kind of thing to myself all too often.

If the piece is in near final size, I would use a pull saw to make the rip cut. It would go fairly fast, really. Whenever I make a stair saw, I have very little room for a stroke where the kerf exits next to the lower handle horn. So I made a pull saw with 9 ppi and nearly no kerf. Works well, albeit slowly at the handle end. Should work for you as well.

I would go purchase an inexpensive Shark saw brand Japanese style pull saw--they are cheap. I believe the rip side is also 9 ppi. Stay a little off the line and clean-up with a chisel or router plane or a bullnose plane.

To use, on each stroke, just start with the end of the saw back against the back of the bridle and lightly pull forward. Let the saw set the speed of cut. Don't force it else the blade will flex and the cut go off line. The Shark doesn't have teeth all the way to the end of the saw, so grind the end off to allow more teeth to cross the cut. For about $25 and ten minutes you'll be done and have a saw you can use in the future.

Take care, Mike

[Andy Hoyt]

Back saw for the cross cut, whack the bulk off with a slick, then carefully pare down to the line with same slick. 3.1 to 3.5 miinutes - tops.:)

Slick = 3" or wider chisel, or biggest one you have.

[Brian Hale]

I'd do several stopped cuts with a router table, most likely with a 1/4" straight bit and clean up with a chisel is needed.

Whatever you choose, be careful.

Brian :)

[Richard Wolf]

Alex, My vote goes with the router table.

Richard

[Alex Berkovsky]

Brian and Richard,
I made a cut with a table saw and for the rest I used the router as you suggested. There just wasn't enough room to use a hand saw (plus lack of experience). Now I do feel that this was too ambitious for a first project.
Here's a partial progress... I still have to taper the side legs, crew on the top, and finish it.

http://a8.cpimg.com/image/BC/3F/56847548-2cea-020001B4-.jpg

[David Eisenhauer]

Without getting too far off into philosophical land, I say BS to your "too ambitious". You're doing it, aren't you? That is a very good looking table and the steps getting there are all part of the trip. That is where the learning curve gets slapped around some, and some days the curve slaps you. Keep up the good work. Still a good looking table.

David

[Richard Wolf]

Great looking table Alex. May I suggest you try out your finish on some scrap. I would hate to see you not satisfied with the finish.

Richard

[Alex Berkovsky]

Thanks to all for all the compliments.


Great looking table Alex. May I suggest you try out your finish on some scrap. I would hate to see you not satisfied with the finish.Richard,
I will try the finish on a scap - especially since this is going to be my first attempt. Any recommendations on the type of finish to use for cherry?

[Dan Racette]

Is there a poll? Is this a democracy? I vote for bandsaw and clean up with a chisel!

[Alex Berkovsky]

Is there a poll? Is this a democracy? I vote for bandsaw and clean up with a chisel!Dan,
I finished making the cuts last night. I am sure you misunderstood what I was trying to accomplish - a cut like this cannot be made on a bandsaw. I am not cutting both sides of the bridle joint.

[Julio Navarro]

I agree, it is a very handsom looking table. The finish is going to be critical.

[Mark Pruitt]

Beautiful table! What bending method did you use for the apron?

As to finishing, it depends on the look you want. Personally, I would not stain the piece since cherry darkens with age. I would go with a clear satin finish, but the finishing material depends on what you're comfortable with and whether or not you have spray equipment. I would make one suggestion, which would put the finish on hold but the long term benefit is worth it IMHO: Get a copy of Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner. The more informed you are about finishing, the more satisfied you'll be with the end result. But by all means, don't do what I did when I built my first "real" project. Knowing almost nothing about what I was doing, I just stained the piece and slapped on a few coats of poly. People still compliment the thing but I despise it.

Be sure to post another pic when completed!
Mark

[Alex Berkovsky]

Beautiful table! What bending method did you use for the apron?Mark,
Thanks for the compliment - does wonders to self esteem :D
I bent the apron using David Marks' method explained here (http://www.diynet.com/diy/ww_tables/article/0,2049,DIY_14446_2275127,00.html). Richard Wolf was kind enough to help me bending it in his shop.

Get a copy of Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner.I will definitelly pick up the book.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

You can stick a piece of 3/4 or whatever to the base of your jig saw and wiz it away with that. Then (if it needs it) clean it with a chisel and a small plane.