Comments on using Target Coatings USL

[Matt Tawes]

I wanted to take a moment to pass along my comments on using USL (Oxford Ultima Spray Lacquer) for the first time. I build furniture and cabinetry for a living and finally decided that to speed production and finishing time I just had to start spray finishing.
I just purchased a Fuji Q4 and after reading reviews and comments about USL on some woodworking forums including SMC I ordered a gallon to give it a try. I have little experience spraying finishes of any sort but let me say that USL is as simple as it gets. Before loading the gun I measured the viscosity right out of the can and it required aboslutely no thinning (or so it seemed). Short of fine tuning the adjustments on the gun there is no trick to spraying USL. This stuff has little to no odor, really needs no thinning at least when using a Q4, and dries incredibly fast. Thus far I've only shot some on a test panel with 3 coats and it provided a beautiful and durable finish after three coats (2 probably would have sufficed). I even got a little heavy on a coat which resulted in orange peal texture but this stuff leveled right out when dry.
Best of all, being a water-based finish it cleans up easily and is safe to spray inside without a spray booth. I only have the choice of spraying in my shop with just a filter equipped fan to reduce airborne mist and it worked out fine. USL atomizes into fine dust when it settles and is no different than sanding dust to wipe off or vacuum up the surrounding area.
As I said I have little experience with spray finishing much less with other products but I cannot see how any other water based spray laquer could give any better results that Target's USL product. I'm sure everyone else has their favorites but Target USL is very inexpensive even with shipping compared to other products and I'm quite satisfied so far with the reuslts.

[Jim Becker]

Matt, I also like the product for all the reasons you cite. And it is also formulated to "burn in" like a lacquer would, resulting in a single layer of finish once cured.

[John Kain]

Question: Is there a temperature range for USL? I've been postponing finishing an entryway table due to outside temps in the high 50's. For some reason, I thought I read one should spray between 60-80 degrees.......

[John Kain]

Bump



Can I spray today or not? It's 58 deg outside...........61 deg in the garage.......

You pros are killing me.....I've been waiting a week to do my first spray USL...!



Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1111

[Brad Hume]

I'm no expert, but I can tell you the USL can says that 60 is the minimum temp, and I have successfully sprayed it with shop temps in the high 50's.

-- Brad

[Matt Tawes]

I'm no expert but I would say that you're safe spraying at temps. around 50 but I would move the item that is finished into a warmer more controlled temp. (if your spraying outside) after spraying it. I do know that oil finishes ideal curing temp. is around 70 deg. and I keep my shop at a constant 65-70 when I have finishes curing. I think the only real downside to the lower temps. is extended curing time and longer stretches between recoating, I doubt that it will impact the appearance or durability of the finish once cured.

Jim, right on about the burn in. I love that factor and how it enables recoating and building without sanding between coats. This was what I loved about Waterlox as a solvent finish. Speaking of which I think next time I do some test spraying I'm going to experiment with my transtint added to the USL to warm up my clear coats.

[John Kain]

Well, I just sanded at 400 very lightly in between the 2nd and 3rd coat.

I have no idea if it makes a difference. I DO KNOW that the finish looks EVEN and FANTASTIC........

It's my first Lacquer spray.............so far, so impressed.............

[John Kain]

Can anyone tell me..................


Do you sand between coats?????????????????

I am very impressed with what I've got so far after the 3rd coat...........

Would you just finish 5 coats then rub out?????????????

[Joe Chritz]

No need to sand unless there is unmentionables in the finish. I normally hit it with a 320 grit 3m sponge. Takes about 30 seconds for a cabinet door and is cheap insurance against a missed particle.

I have never sprayed more then two coats of finish over a #1 shellac sanding sealer so I don't know about 5 coats.

No reason you couldn't spray two or three then buff them out.

If you do a search there are posts about buffing out finishes. Usually NC lacquer but USL is supposed to work the same. It is most definately on my "to do" list.

Joe

[John Kain]

Well, I sprayed 5 coats..........It was fun with the gun............

I'll let it sit for 30 hours then hit it with 400 grit, 600 grit, 800 grit, 1200 grit.........wet sanding water/soap mix............

Some Pumice powder...........and done????????????


I've never rubbed out a lacquer before.

Am I doing this right?

Sorry to Hijack the thread!!!:D

[Matt Tawes]

Sounds like you have a quite a routine John. I Seldom go to that much trouble even for a piece of furniture. I primarily got into spraying and lacquer for cabinet work since it's so time consuming otherwise. Personally, I think that merely sanding to remove little dust nibs before the final coat is usually sufficient to achieve a nice look and feel. Now if you're trying to rub out the finish to a certain sheen or high polish then I understand you wanting to take the extra steps. For the most part I think a schedule of spraying a couple coats of USL then sanding lightly before finish coat achieves a nice job with the least amount of work.

[David Eisenhauer]

If I understand right, you intend to rub out right away. I think you ought to ket the finish cure a week or so prior to rubbing out. The chemistry needs to work to produce a hard enough base for the rub to work. Check the forum at Target Coatings for the whole story.

David

[Jim Becker]

Sanding.... No, it's not necessary to sand between coats of USL or many other finishes, for that matter. (Poly is a noted exception since it doesn't like to stick even to itself...)

I do lightly sand with 320 wet and dry after the first coat if it went directly on the wood to knock down any grain raise. After that, only if I, umm...screw up. ;)

[John Kain]

If I understand right, you intend to rub out right away. I think you ought to ket the finish cure a week or so prior to rubbing out. The chemistry needs to work to produce a hard enough base for the rub to work. Check the forum at Target Coatings for the whole story.

David

Thanks. I guess I'll wait until next weekend........

I really was impressed with how easy spraying USL actually was. Man, it dries fast as well.

[John Kain]

Another question:

Can I use soapy water when wet sanding on a project finished with USL?

Water based finish + soapy water = ?

Thanks in advance.......

[Jim Becker]

Can I use soapy water when wet sanding on a project finished with USL?

I suppose you can, John. Just be sure to clean off the soap before any subsequent coats, if any. Personally, I use mineral spirits as a lubricant for wet sanding, although I don't usually wet sand USL.

[JayStPeter]

I used plain old water to wetsand away some drips and runs. Seemed to work fine. I just had to make sure and wipe it off within a few minutes or it would leave a slight mark. Maybe mineral spirits are a better bet, but I haven't tried it.
I've had enough problems with contamination using regular lacquer (from a spray can) that I'd be leery of putting something like soap on the surface.

Jay

[John Kain]

I'll go with mineral spirits then.

Thank you for the help............again............:D

[Brad Hume]

If you are just talking about sanding the last coat, it probably doesn't matter what you sand with. If you are talking about between coats, one of the things I learned from the Target Coatings forum was that mineral spirits are NOT recommended for wet sanding their water based finishes. The mineral spirits may leave some residue behind that will affect the next coat.

They recommend using water to wet sand, or dry sanding with Mirka Bulldog Gold or 3M 216u stearated papers.

That being said, I sanded several coats with mineral spirits, saw this on their forum, switched to water, and saw no change in the results.

If you do use water, I would wait a little longer before sanding, and get the water on and off the finish quickly. I had a problem where I thought the finish was ready to sand (waited maybe an hour after spraying, the surface looked and felt dry), I squirted on some water and started to sand, and the whole coat I had just put down started to rub off in splotches. There is still a lot of chemistry going on when water based finishes look dry.

My first experience with Target USL was also my first time spraying, so I learned alot about sanding between coats...

--Brad