Flattening wide lumber

[Bob Johnson2]

Can anyone make a suggestion on flattening a board to be used for a coffee table top? I ordered some 13"w x 48" walnut bds to glue up for a 24"w tabletop. The owner called to ask what size table I was making after seeing my request. I just recieved a piece of 5/4 thats 25" x about 60" so running it through my 15" planer or 6" jointer are out. All I can think of is either rip the bd then reglue it after or try making a sled of sorts for a router. As I've not tried either method can anyone suggest one of these or something else that has worked for you?
I only own a 4.5 and coupleblock planes, oh yeah, and 1 very old wooden job thats something like 24"x4".
Thanks
Bob

[Mike Wenzloff]

Hi Bob,

If you want to go the hand route, what you have can do the job. I have more options, so that's what I would typically do.

When working on a commission that would not warrant the hand work, I always ripped the piece, dimensioned, and reglued, paying attention that I was taking equal amounts of the same face surfaces. I do that by marking on the end grain that shows the face and the glue joint. I also would cut the length down to an inch or so of final dimensions.

In lieu of a wide jointer, and instead of a router frame, I would build a sled for the planer and use wedges with double-stick tape, flatten one surface, remove the sled and run the other side.

Take care, Mike

[tod evans]

bob, take the board to a local shop and have them run it through their widebelt..it`d be a real shame to cut a board of that size....02 tod

[Don Baer]

I used my Bailey #5 followed up by my belt sander when I made the top for a 28" round table recently. The material was 6/4 hard maple. It came out as smooth and flat as you could want.

[Barry O'Mahony]

it`d be a real shame to cut a board of that size....02 tod
You can say that again!

[Jeff Singleton]

Call up as many pattern shops as you can, one of them is bound to have a 30" or 36" jointer. I know near me in Akron, OH there are two 30" jointers in pattern shops. Most would run it over the knives for free, but never hurts to pay. Some would pay just to see a 30" jointer, affectionatlly called aircraft carriers. Then you could send it thru the wide belt. Another option would be a lumber mill with a 36" Oliver Straight-O-Plane. It never hurts to let your finger do the walking. Who knows you might make some new friends.

Jeff Singleton
Singleton's Woodworking & Pattern Works:)

[Mike Wenzloff]

bob, take the board to a local shop and have them run it through their widebelt..it`d be a real shame to cut a board of that size....02 tod
It is possible to rip and restitch pretty darn seamless.

http://wenzloffandsons.com/temp/display/joint_0001a.jpg (http://wenzloffandsons.com/temp/display/joint_0001.jpg)

http://wenzloffandsons.com/temp/display/joint_0002a.jpg (http://wenzloffandsons.com/temp/display/joint_0002.jpg)

Clicking the pictures will open a larger file if you want. The wood is Bubinga. The top was wider than my equipment. It was ripped, sent through a planer, and glued back together and sanded, then the edge profile roughed in when this picture was taken, which was after it was joined to the sides.

Good luck finding the seam.

Take care, Mike

[Pete Salvatore]

There was an article in Popular Woodworking (I think) on using a jig and router to flatten wide boards. I can look for it tonight if you like?

[Bryan Somers]

There was an article in Popular Woodworking (I think) on using a jig and router to flatten wide boards. I can look for it tonight if you like?

That artical is in the April/May 05 issue of Wood Magazine Pg 90.
If this helps

[Tom Jones III]

I don't have a ton of experience with hand planes but even with my limited experience I could get that table top flat and smooth with a few hand planes faster than I could rip, face joint, edge joint, power plane, reglue, final smoothing. If you've only got one to do and the wood doesn't have major problems I would just do it by hand.

[Jim Becker]

Router sled on rails...easy and darn cheap. You could also find someone with a wide-belt sander and buy time...or use tail-less tools, a la Neander.

[Todd Davidson]

Hey Bob~

If a drive to Winsted, CT isn't too far PM me. I know a fella with a big planer and even bigger belt sander.

In peace, Todd

[Jim W. White]

Hand planing is definately the ticket here! Black walnut planes very well/easy with little/no tearout. :)

I burn plenty of electrons when called for, but this job would definately be done easiest with handplaning IMO.

my 2 cents,

Jim W

[Ian Abraham]

This is my jig for flattening wide boards, it's really just a fancy router bridge using my sawmill for the frame / rails.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=20288

Dont know how much trouble you want to go to for a one off job, but the router on rails idea does work. I do a lot of slab table tops, and have a heap more to do, so this was the best way I could think of.
I guess it also depends on how much you need to hog off to get things level.

Cheers

Ian

[Bob Johnson2]

Hey Bob~

If a drive to Winsted, CT isn't too far PM me. I know a fella with a big planer and even bigger belt sander.

In peace, Todd

There's a pm in the mail.

[Pete Salvatore]

That artical is in the April/May 05 issue of Wood Magazine Pg 90.
If this helps

Better memory than mine. Thanks...

Pete

[Tom Sontag]

I don't have a ton of experience with hand planes but even with my limited experience I could get that table top flat and smooth with a few hand planes faster than I could rip, face joint, edge joint, power plane, reglue, final smoothing. If you've only got one to do and the wood doesn't have major problems I would just do it by hand.

I agree 100%. The only reason it might take longer than an hour (both sides) total is the board is really twisted or your hand plane is not anywhere close to tuned. and if you need to tune the plane, it is a worthwhile diversion. The whole thing is fun work!

[tod evans]

It is possible to rip and restitch pretty darn seamless.

http://wenzloffandsons.com/temp/display/joint_0001a.jpg (http://wenzloffandsons.com/temp/display/joint_0001.jpg)

http://wenzloffandsons.com/temp/display/joint_0002a.jpg (http://wenzloffandsons.com/temp/display/joint_0002.jpg)

Clicking the pictures will open a larger file if you want. The wood is Bubinga. The top was wider than my equipment. It was ripped, sent through a planer, and glued back together and sanded, then the edge profile roughed in when this picture was taken, which was after it was joined to the sides.

Good luck finding the seam.

Take care, Mike

mike, i agree that some boards can be split and reglued sucessfully, but i`m guessing that bobs walnut is riftsawn and given the grain of riftsawn walnut i`ll stick to my opinion that it would be a shame to cut the board.. by the way, pretty table...02 tod

[Mark Singer]

Mike,
Beautiful cabinet!
depending on the grain ....the ripping may or may not show...usually it won't and your eye will tell you it is one piece....