using a dial indicator to set TS fence

[Mark Pruitt]

When I set up my Unisaw 2-3 weeks ago, I aligned the fence with the miter gauge slots by "eyeballing" it and was able to get what I consider to be an acceptable alignment. But, I do have a dial indicator and I know there's a method for using it to align the fence with the slots to within less than .001. I've seen some kind of steel "sled" that rides in the slot and you can affix a dial indicator to it. As I recall, the same setup will allow for precision in aligning the miter slots to the blade. I can't remember where I saw the thing. Anybody know what I'm talking about or who sells it?

Mark

[tod evans]

mark, you`re dealing with woodworking tools........is your saw not cutting well? is there a reason to go to this extreme? i read about folks fiddling with their saws for hours but haven`t seen one post where it cut a board any better after they got done......only food for thought...02 tod

[Vaughn McMillan]

There are several of these available commercially. Here's one (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2355&SearchHandle=DADADJDJDADADDDGGFDHDGDJDGGBGDGDCNDBG FDJDECNDEDGDCDFCNDJDDDEGBCNGDGFGGDIGBDGGBDBGFGFDCG FDADADADBDADADADADFGHGBHFGHGFDADADADEDADADADADADAD ADBDFDADADADBDADADADADADADADADADADADADBDADADADADFG HGBHFGHGFDADADADBDB&filter=gauge), and here's another one (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11428&SearchHandle=DADADJDJDADADDDGGFDHDGDJDGGBGDGDCNDBG FDJDECNDEDGDCDFCNDJDDDEGBCNGDGFGGDIGBDGGBDBGFGFDCG FDADADADBDADADADADFGHGBHFGHGFDADADADEDADADADADADAD ADBDFDADADADBDADADADADADADADADADADADADBDADADADADFG HGBHFGHGFDADADADBDB&filter=gauge). I'm pretty sure these are both available from places other than Rockler, but those are just two I found real quick on their sute. I've also seen plans somewhere for making your own out of wood. Any of them should be a bit more accurate than eyeballing it.

HTH -

- Vaughn

[Bruce Page]

Mark, I posted a thread on the subject a few weeks ago: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=32315 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=32315) Your fence should be set up with .015-.020 drift, away from the blade. You have an increased risk of a kick-back when the fence is set perfectly parallel to the blade, particularly during ripping operations.

[glenn bradley]

Going with the ".001 inch ought to be close enough for woodworking; here's my thoughts:

I picked up a dial gauge at Harbour Freight, on sale for about 8 bucks. Mounted it firmly to a bracket that is attached to a miter bar. You get the picture.

I'll add that you want to use this setup (or a similar one) to first assure that your blade and miter slot are parallel, then assure your fence and miter slot are parallel.

The difference between a little time and effort with a setup like this versus eyeballing it is VERY gratifying. Especially on the 60-odd year old Craftsman that's buried under all my "bolt-ons".

[Steve Clardy]

I stuff a 3/4 block of wood in the miter groove, standing it up in there, cut a scrap board 5-6 inches long, and use that to align front and back. 0 on front, and eyeball a 32nd or so on the rear.

[Hoa Dinh]

Go to TS-Aligner Technical Information page (http://www.ts-aligner.com/technical.htm) and read the articles there.

Don't blame me if you end up buying from Mr. Bennett (a really nice man, BTW) :)

The dial indicator will be much easier to use if you have a point set (http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1783).

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Products/Images/480/480.1783.jpg

For those who don't own a dial indicator yet, Little Machine Shop does sell the a kit of Dial Indicator, Magnetic Base & Point Set (http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1782) for a good price.

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Products/Images/480/480.1782.jpg

[Dick Latshaw]

Go to TS-Aligner Technical Information page (http://www.ts-aligner.com/technical.htm) and read the articles there.

Don't blame me if you end up buying from Mr. Bennett (a really nice man, BTW) :)

The dial indicator will be much easier to use if you have a point set (http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1783).


I have a TS-Aligner Jr. and have found it most useful. I have been looking for a point set at a reasonable price. Thanks.

[Tyler Howell]

[quote=tod evans]read about folks fiddling with their saws for hours but haven`t seen one post where it cut a board any better after they got done.

I just spent hours fiddling with my PM 66:o . Had a lot of burn. Both blade and fence toed in, causing some real rough going for a while. (I think it was the wobble dado blade that's now in the G can)
2 nights of fussing with the saw it's .001 blade to miter, & .020 run out fence to blade
Arbor rotation doesn't even deflect the needle:D
I have this set up and the Master Bar??
Did the job and I now rip my lumber rather than burn it apart:cool:

http://www.ts-aligner.com/technical.htm

[tod evans]

[quote=tod evans]read about folks fiddling with their saws for hours but haven`t seen one post where it cut a board any better after they got done.

I just spent hours fiddling with my PM 66:o . Had a lot of burn. Both blade and fence toed in, causing some real rough going for a while. (I think it was the wobble dado blade that's now in the G can)
2 nights of fussing with the saw it's .001 blade to miter, & .020 run out fence to blade
Arbor rotation doesn't even deflect the needle:D
I have this set up and the Master Bar??
Did the job and I now rip my lumber rather than burn it apart:cool:

http://www.ts-aligner.com/technical.htm


thanks tyler:o i stand corrected.....

[Howard Acheson]

May be you can get your money back. Here's a way to align your tablesaw that has only a minimal cost.

Here is the low tech, low cost way to align a tablesaw that I learned maybe forty years ago and teach to my students now.

Make 3/4 x 3/4 x 12" hardwood stick. Drill a hole somewhat centered in one end and insert a brass #8 x 1" round head wood screw about half way. UNPLUG THE SAW. Raise the blade completely up. Clamp this board in your miter gauge (if you determine that there is some slop in your slot to miter gauge, use a playing card to take up the slop) so the screw head just about touches the blade at the front. Now rotate the blade by hand and determine which tooth is the closest. Adjust the screw in or out until it just touches this tooth. Mark this tooth. Rotate the blade so the tooth is now at the back of the table and move the miter gauge/stick assembly to the back and see if it touches the marked tooth to the same extent. If it doesn't, adjust the trunnion (if a contractor saw) or the tabletop (if a cabinet saw) until it does.

For a contractor saw, first use a small c-clamp on the rear trunnion and cradle to keep the assembly from moving. Then loosen the two rear trunnion bolts and one front trunnion bolt. Slightly loosen the other front trunnion bolt and use a stick to tap the trunnion until the blade and screw lightly touch. The blade does not move directly around the center so you will need to repeatedly go back to the front of the blade, readjust the screw, and then again measure the back. Be sure to check after tightening the trunnion as the trunnion frequently moves when being tightened.

For cabinet saws, loosen the bolts that hold the tabletop and tap one corner until things come into alignment.

The same adjustment gauge can be used to set the fence parallel to the miter slot. Slide the miter gauge to the front of the table and move the fence over to the screw head and insert a playing card between the screw head and the fence just so you can move the card as it touches both the fence and the screw head. Now move the miter gauge to the back of the table and see if you have the same feel when you insert the card. I like my fence absolutely parallel--if you want to have a slight opening to the fence, you can easily estimate the opening by adding a thickness of paper to the card.

I always show my students with a dial gauge that their adjustments are within .001 - .002.

You can also use the same gauge to measure blade runout by using a $5.00 feeler gauge.

Finally, after you are satisfied with the above adjustments, check the position of the splitter to make sure it is exactly in line with the blade.

Bottom line, there is no need to spend more than the $0.05 for the brass screw.

[Jerry Strojny]

In-line Industries sells alignment tools like you are describing. http://www.in-lineindustries.com/products.html

A-line-it basic and a deluxe version. Works great. Got my saw up to "snuff" in about 30 minutes. Can be used for a whole slew of shop tools. I got one at last years woodworking show. Lent it to my dad....which reminds me, I need to get that back.

Almost forgot, In-line dial alignment tools are sold at Woodcraft (I think Woodcraft puts their name on it.)

[Gary Keedwell]

I think it is wonderful that woodworkers are using indicators. Machinists have reaped the benifits of indicators since the early part of the last century. Of course, you are gonna have some who will not or cannot see the many applications this great tool will perform. The indicator has been the reason we have so many toys. As a machinist in my other life, I can tell you there would not be ANY power tools without it. As an example of one of many uses of an indicator: When I use my stacked dado, I undersize it, make one pass, measure dado with calibers, put indicator against fence, move fence take another pass with stock, and a perfect dado. I threw my shims away. Thanks for reading my rant.:rolleyes:

Gary K.

[CPeter James]

Here are some photos of one of the tools that I use in the shop for alignment of my table saw and other things. The dial indicator came form MSC and the part number (on sale) is "GP76450071". Cost is $8.99. I have several of these and while I would not use them to tool up for rocket engines, they are fine for tool alignment in the woodworking shop.

http://members.localnet.com/~cpjvkj/di1.jpg

This is the back side. The 1/4" by 1" carriage bolt is recessed into the sliding piece. The row of holes is 3/4" on center.
http://members.localnet.com/~cpjvkj/di2.jpg

CPeter

[Bruce Page]

I think it is wonderful that woodworkers are using indicators. Machinists have reaped the benifits of indicators since the early part of the last century. Of course, you are gonna have some who will not or cannot see the many applications this great tool will perform. The indicator has been the reason we have so many toys. As a machinist in my other life, I can tell you there would not be ANY power tools without it. As an example of one of many uses of an indicator: When I use my stacked dado, I undersize it, make one pass, measure dado with calibers, put indicator against fence, move fence take another pass with stock, and a perfect dado. I threw my shims away. Thanks for reading my rant.:rolleyes:

Gary K.
Gary, I wholeheartedly agree. I could get by without mine but it would be a lot more trouble!
I was also a machinist in my other life.

[Pete Grass]

Great post folks! I've got a old 1.5HP Delta Homecraft that needs a tune after I get done with my current project and these tips are just what I needed. Thanks for the links too.

Pete

[Bruce Wrenn]

You might want to get a copy of John Whites book "Care and Repair of Shop Machines" John is the manager of FWW's shop. He shows how to use a couple of scraps of wood and a DI to align both blade and fence. His homemade jigs do everything that $100+ jigs do. A few issues back, either Shop Notes, or Woodsmith featured a readers jig for checking blade square to table using a DI.

[tod evans]

I think it is wonderful that woodworkers are using indicators. Machinists have reaped the benifits of indicators since the early part of the last century. Of course, you are gonna have some who will not or cannot see the many applications this great tool will perform. The indicator has been the reason we have so many toys. As a machinist in my other life, I can tell you there would not be ANY power tools without it. As an example of one of many uses of an indicator: When I use my stacked dado, I undersize it, make one pass, measure dado with calibers, put indicator against fence, move fence take another pass with stock, and a perfect dado. I threw my shims away. Thanks for reading my rant.:rolleyes:

Gary K.

gary, i use an indicator quite frequently, mainly for setting shaper/moulder heads. but for a tablesaw i just haven`t found it to be necessary especially when setting a rip fence. like bruce i like to toe mine out .020 or so and an old business card seems to work pretty well for me. this is the point i was trying to make earlier, not that indicators/calipers/mics ect arn`t handy but for setting a fence i really see no need......02 tod

[lou sansone]

yea ... what tod said... toe out and you will be fine
lou

[Mark Pruitt]

Thanks everyone for all the responses! All very helpful. Now that it's FRIDAY :D and the weekend's coming on, it's shop time again! Have a great weekend everyone.
Mark