anyone make large round nose scrapers?

[Stephen Hibbs]

I was talking to my neighbor/woodturning mentor about turning end grain cups and bowls, and he showed me his large, heavy roundnose scraper and said people make them out of old car suspension springs. I am wondering if anyone makes and sells large scrapers on the cheap on this forum. I'm in no hurry, but if anyone is makes them or has any of said springs or other suitable metal I would be willing to buy one. I have lots of wood that's only suitable for endgrain, so this would be a real conveniance.

[Andy Hoyt]

Stephen - I can't help you on the scraper, but I can tell you this for end grain turning and the scraper that you will one day make. Be sure to make the handle for it long and heavy. Longer and heavier than you think you'll want.

It's amazing how short handles get the moment they contact the spinning piece. It's a leverage and counter balance thing.

[John Hart]

Yup...I agree with Andy 100%. The handle is everything.....Plus, the larger the surface area of the scraper, the more wood surface contact you achieve. BIG TIME catch potential. Longer the handle the better.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Check with Penn State Industry. I have their 1 1/2" scraper and I think I paid $22 for it. You can buy all four scrapers LX189 for $54. They have lots of great tools for a affordable price.

[Stephen Hibbs]

I guess I could go with Penn state, I was just wondering if anyone had some of these springs. I think I'll have to wait if that's the case since a package from them arrived today :D I might have to wait a bit.

[Corey Hallagan]

I read a review of some PSI tools. In his opinion, the cut in quality was really only the lack of sanding and proper finishing on the handle and removing the lacquer from the gouge tool as well. The quality of steel and the grind he could tell no difference from other more expensive tools. You can get a PSI 3/4 round scraper with side scraper for 16.50. While we are at it, seems like rusty old leaf springs would not be such a good idea strength wise, but maybe I am wrong. Good luck!

Corey

[Bruce Smith]

Stephen old automotive or truck leaf spring make nice scrapers, I have had great luck with them. Seems a year or so ago I finally broke down, treated myself and purchased a nice Hamlet heavy duty round nose scraper (1/2" thick) but I still have and use my home brew scrapers. I believe I'm lucky as there is a spring shop (1/4 mile away). Thats all they do, fabricate and install automotive and truck leaf springs, there is always scrap pieces laying around that are destine for the scrap bin. If there isn't a spring shop in you town, try and check out the local truck repair shop, the fellows that repair the eighteen wheelers. I'm sure they can help you out. Good Luck....

[Jim Davenport]

Check with Penn State Industry. I have their 1 1/2" scraper and I think I paid $22 for it. You can buy all four scrapers LX189 for $54. They have lots of great tools for a affordable price.
I just checked on the "Penn State site". I seems that most of their stuff is out of stock. Is this common for them, or is it a seasonal thing?

[tod evans]

I read a review of some PSI tools. In his opinion, the cut in quality was really only the lack of sanding and proper finishing on the handle and removing the lacquer from the gouge tool as well. The quality of steel and the grind he could tell no difference from other more expensive tools. You can get a PSI 3/4 round scraper with side scraper for 16.50. While we are at it, seems like rusty old leaf springs would not be such a good idea strength wise, but maybe I am wrong. Good luck!

Corey

cory, my first lathe tools where all made from "rusty leaf springs" even a crude but functional hollowing rig.....we where poor and had more time than money. they actually worked very well....02 tod

[Mike Ramsey]

I just checked on the "Penn State site". I seems that most of their stuff is out of stock. Is this common for them, or is it a seasonal thing?

Jim, a lot of PSI stuff has been showing up at the eway store under
some guy by the name of something "doodles" That's probably
why there's not much on thier site ;) .

[Paul Douglass]

Can't you go to the local auto wrecking yard and get some springs? Darn, I think I have a piece around here somewhere but postage would be too much to make it worth sending. I may have hauled it to the scrape metal store the other day when I went. Now I have to go look around and see.

[Philip Duffy]

I made a short - -5in with a 7 in handle - - heavy scraper out of heavy steel for one purpose; take the bottom of a big bowl down flat, including the nib. It works like a joy stick! Phil

[Corey Hallagan]

Thanks guys, I wasn't scoffing at the idea, just wasn't sure how strong and or safe old rusty springs would be. guess they work fine. Wish I had the tools to grind something like that myself.

Corey

[Don Henthorn Smithville, TX]

I bought a length of 3/8" X 1 1/4" carbon steel and made my own scrapers. Not difficult to harden and temper them and they are really great to use. No sign of chatter. Here is a pic.
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<img src="http://users2.ev1.net/~henthorn/turntoo.jpg">

[Corey Hallagan]

Wow, nice work Don!

corey

[Jim Bell]

Sorby makes a nice scraper.
Jim

[Stephen Hibbs]

I might try an auto mechanic, but my new Benjamin's Best bowl gouge has a nice long hefty feel to it, it might be sufficient (haven't been able to use it yet). Right now my other tools are HCS harbor freight tools I picked up with my lathe, definitely looking to upgrade, not least because my grinder is currently living in the corner on the floor, not the most convenient way to sharpen tools, so sharpening every 10 minutes gets old fast. Thanks for the input guys.

[Jim Davenport]

Right now I've only got one roundnose scraper. I have a large "Skew" I'm thinking to regrind it to a "Bowl scraper".
Do you guys leave a "burr" on the edge. I used to hone the backs. But I read about leaving a burr. It seams to cut smoother with the burr. But I have to dress up the edge frequently.

[John Hart]

Right now I've only got one roundnose scraper. I have a large "Skew" I'm thinking to regrind it to a "Bowl scraper".
Do you guys leave a "burr" on the edge. I used to hone the backs. But I read about leaving a burr. It seams to cut smoother with the burr. But I have to dress up the edge frequently.

It's funny...some folks say, "leave the burr" and others swear by removing it. Maybe it has something to do with how each individual addresses the wood with the edge....or maybe it has something to do with toolrest height...or both.:confused:
Personally...I leave the burr.

[Jeff Singleton]

Cory, My scrapers are the easiest in the world. I have Wisconsin Knife Works blanks. What they are are just 1/4" thick and from 1/2" - 1 1/2" wide by 36" long. They are rather heavy, well really heavy. They are high speed steel, M-2 or A-11 I think. They are really just planer knives and they are sold by the inch and you grind whatever shape on the end you want. They have no handles and they really don't need one. They will last a light time. A little pricey though, up to $3.50 an INCH. I have one that is sharpened at both ends with a butt cap covering the end not used.

Jeff Singleton;)

[Don Henthorn Smithville, TX]

It's funny...some folks say, "leave the burr" and others swear by removing it. Maybe it has something to do with how each individual addresses the wood with the edge....or maybe it has something to do with toolrest height...or both.:confused:
Personally...I leave the burr.

In my limited experience a new burr will cut great but it doesn't last long. If i knock the burr off after grinding and hone the tool it will cut great and last longer. I suspect that in the long run it comes out even. You will have to grind more and oftener if you use a burr and your tools won't last as long. On the other hand honing will let you turn longer at a time but then you will spend longer getting the tool ready to turn. I also suspect that on harder woods that the burr is gone much more quickly and that honing will produce an edge that will last significantly longer and perhaps one would be ahead as far as time goes by honing. Guess I ought to do a study on that someday. Naw! I'm too old to do that study and I would rather turn anyway.

[John Hart]

In my limited experience a new burr will cut great but it doesn't last long. If i knock the burr off after grinding and hone the tool it will cut great and last longer....

This makes a lot of sense. A while back, I was reading about Bandsaw Blade Care and they said that you should cut very slowly at first with a new blade because there are tiny burrs on the teeth that will be broken off if you go too fast. This ultimately dulls the blade faster. Interesting. Thanks Don.