Preparing a new tool for the worksohp

[Ron Wright]

I ordered a Delta 37-275X X5 6" Jointer from Amazon yesterday, and can't wait untill it arrives (delivery scheduled for 29-31 March). I need some advice on cleaning the shipping solution off, and preparing the tool for wood work. Any suggestions?
BTW...I will try again tonight to post some pictures. Last night the computer gremlins were lurking and I finally gave up trying to post my first project pictures. I will try again tonight.

[Brett Baldwin]

I believe you'll want to remove the oil with mineral spirits then use paste wax on the exposed cast iron to prevent rust and make it nice and smooth.

[Brian Parker]

Ron, I ordered my X5 a few hours (if that) before you did. I just checked on Amazon and they say that it is in the process of getting ready to ship :D

For removing the was I use a putty knife and take off the majority of the gunk and then i take a rag and put some paint thinner on it and after a few rubs its nice and clean. Then I take a different part of the rag or a clean one and put a little bit and go over it all again to make sure.

Brett talked about using paste wax, some people use that and some use Boeshield (about $12 for a spray paint sized can). I like the boeshild because if you leave it set on there for a few days it penetrates into the metal. then I take and spray a thin coat of boeshild on again after waiting a week or so and wipe it off and then put the paste wax on. The boeshiled is good stuff and lasts for al long time however I don't like how it seems to gum up if you just spray it on and leave it sit. Some like to spray it on and then wipe it off, as I like to let it penetrate for maximum protection. I think the paste wax is slicker than the boeshield after it sits, cant compare it to a wipe off of the boeshiled though.

Edit:
I do belive that Norman is right with Mineral Spirits...thats what I used on my items. Must have had programming on my mind and thought of paint thinner ¿who knows?

[Norman Hitt]

I would be VERY Careful using paint thinner because of the chance of getting it on the painted surfaces which on a new machine may not have fully cured and could be damaged by the paint thinner.

The majority of the cosmoline/grease should be scraped off with "PLASTIC or NYLON" type scraper, (again to prevent scratching possibly still soft paint), and then several items can be used to wipe down the remaining grease. The long time favorite recommended by most mfrs for this goes as follows;
1. Kerosene
2. Mineral Spirits
after the first two choices are WD-40, Diesel, etc in no particular order. My preference has always been Kerosene.

If you are satisfied the paint has cured, wax all painted surfaces, but you should immediately treat all unpainted surfaces with your choice of metal protectors, ie; Boeshield, TopCote, etc, and then a good coat of paste wax "Buffed in Well" to provide a hard slick finish. "Some Mfrs" recommend patting and rubbing in a good coat of Talcum Powder" using an old chalkboard eraser on the unpainted cast iron surfaces for both a slick finish and rust protection, (this was the case for my PM-66 in the owners manual), instead of the other treatments mentioned above, but you have to read the label to be sure of what is in the powder, as many powders today use other alternate ingredients.

Congrats on the new Toy....errrr....Tool.;)

[Jim Becker]

Norm...mineral spirits is generally considered "paint thinner" and often labeled as such.

Ron, I use both kerosene and mineral spirits on a new tool...the former for the first passes and the latter to clean things up and help remove the oily residue from the kero.

[Norman Hitt]

Norm...mineral spirits is generally considered "paint thinner" and often labeled as such.

Ron, I use both kerosene and mineral spirits on a new tool...the former for the first passes and the latter to clean things up and help remove the oily residue from the kero.

You're RIGHT.:o I had a total mindset of Lacquer Thinner I guess, and the Other more powerful solvents, instead of what I was reading. Thanks for waking me up.:D

[Ron Wright]

Thanks guys for the suggestioins. I am looking forward to using the new tool...Brian, let me know when yours arrives. According to Amazon, they are preparing to ship. I also purchased the roll around stand that goes with the 37-275X.
Thanks again:)

[Matt Guyrd]

I received my mobile base and the jointer bed yesterday...still waiting on the cabinet.

Thanks for the "plastic or nylon type scraper" tip...that's good advise. Looks like the manual recommends kerosene to remove the grease. So if I am not mistaken, you all recommend scraping as much off as possible, use kerosene to remove remaining protectant, then mineral spirits (or other degreasers??) to take the oily film off? Does that sound about right?

Once the "cleanup" is complete, I should use a metal protector before waxing the unpainted surfaces?

Wax the painted surface too? Another good tip...thanks.

To take this thread a bit further, any other setup tips we should be aware of in addition to the manual's setup instructions? I know I have read about checking the table and fence for flatness. Any other recommendations?

Thanks so much!

Matt

[Brian Parker]

Matt,

I think you have it nailed down there pretty good. The only other thing that I have read about is some people replacing the belt with one that causes less vibration. I figure that I'll try mine out and see if vibration is enough to warrant a new belt.

[Matt Guyrd]

Thanks, Brian...keep me posted on your setup. I'll do the same. Did you receive all three boxes yet, or are you still waiting on the cabinet too?

I scored a very lightly used Jet contractor's saw and Jet 14" BS (both with nice mobil bases) about two months ago for $200 each (I'll post some pics when I get the jointer setup). I am using my garage for the shop. Suffice to say that I should treat these surfaces with a metal protector prior to waxing too? I picked up a can of Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax and was going to hit the unpainted surfaces on both of these machines too, but think it might be wise to hit them with the protector first. I'm not sure if the tables have wax on them from the previous owner, or not. Hmmm.

Good luck with the setup!

Matt

[Tyler Howell]

WD 40 worked real slick and didn't stink up the shop. Cut real fast and didn't require a lot of elbo grease.:cool:

[Brian Parker]

Haha did I get my boxes yet, lets just say that I got a $20 promo certificate from Amazon because the delivery company didn't get it to the Pittsburgh hub in time to send it out on the truck to my area. I mean it only shipped from Cincinnati its amazing that it took 5...I mean now 6 days for me to get it.

I'm getting mine delivered by Eagle (EGL) and I looked at the rider and it says that I have 1 package weighing 251#'s. I looked at the Amazon site and it says that the shipping weight is 290# so I don't know what to expect. The people at EGL were a bit confused yesterday and I didn’t want to confuse them more by asking them to see how many boxes I have.

For my mobile base I got some 2” angle Iron and made a Mobile base outa it. I’ll post a few pictures when I get time this weekend. I’ll warn you now that it was my first time welding and using the sticks was a bit tricky at first hehe good thing for the angle grinder.

[Tyler Howell]

[quote=Brian Parker]Haha did I get my boxes yet, lets just say that I got a $20 promo certificate from Amazon because the delivery company didn't get it to the Pittsburgh hub in time to send it out on the truck to my area. I mean it only shipped from Cincinnati its amazing that it took 5...I mean now 6 days for me to get it.
Amazon:mad:
EGL brought my DJ20. One piece at a time:( .
They finally came and got the base and delivered another base and jointer.

[Laurie Brown]

I recently got a brand new Delta JT160 jointer and have the same questiona s to what to do with it. The tables on this are aluminum rather than cast iron, and they have a slightly grooved pattern rather than beyond completely smooth. I have not done anything to the original coating yet, because I wasn't sure what to do with it.. I have WD40, can I use that to clean it? Do I need to use anything else?

[Rob Bodenschatz]

So, am I correct in saying that I should wax the tool immediately after cleaning the shipping goop? Reason being that removing the goop will leave it vulnerable until I get it coated? The reason I'm asking is that I'm intrigued by this Renaissance wax but I can't find anyone that sells it locally. Should I clean it up, apply some Johnson's wax for now, and then apply the Renaissance later when I can get it?

[Greg Jurrens]

I got this same Delta jointer from Amazon about a month ago. The clean up is really easy by using Simple Green cleaner at full strength. About ten paper towels and maybe fifteen minutes and I had a gleeming clean jointer. I just use paste wax to maintain the surface.
Greg

[Matt Guyrd]

Hmmm...so the most readily available (with the ability to easily store and have additional uses for) products mentioned are WD-40, mineral spirits, and Simple Green...all things I have. Anybody know of reasons NOT to use these products? Or let me rephrase by asking why the manual specifically references kerosene?? For me, I have no use for kerosene and it will just tie up one of my gas cans.

I've also heard Xylene would work...readily available at the BORGS.

Rob - what is this Renaissance wax you refer to in your post?

Laurie - good questions regarding the aluminum. I suspect WD-40 would suffice. What did the manual say? Anything different than kerosene?

Brian...you made a mobil stand...did you get the free Delta mobile stand, as well?

Matt

[Brian Parker]

Matt,

I had already recieved the casters when I found out about the free MB. I got alot of 2" angle iron from a place that tossed it away and I cut it up and made one solid base which is easy to move, has a greater mobility and raises up the working surface so its easier for me. Look on eBay next week and you'll see my MB on there for sale....unless someone here who don't have one wants to make an offer ;) Pics will come later on so Tyler is content.

[Matt Guyrd]

Sure...I understand the use of a custom MB. I was just making sure you didn't pass up the freebie!:D Should go quick on Ebay, Craig's List, or SMC.

In reading about Topcote and Boeshield T9 rust inhibitors (recommending in an earlier post and applied post-cleanup and pre-waxing), it seems as though these products can be used in lieu of wax (Johnson's, Butcher's, etc.).

So why both? Just added protection?

Matt

[Rob Bodenschatz]

I've seen Renaissance referred to in other posts. It's a wax. People really seem to like it. Just do a search on it here and on woodnet.