Revised Shop Plan Layout from your feedback

[Gary Lange]

Here is what I am planning for the Workshop. I finally am getting the time to do the layout and have the area ready for the floor and electrical. I already have outlets around the walls every other stud just need to put the 220 lines in for the Dust Collector, Tablesaw and Jointer. What do you guys think and don't beat me up to bad here. Jointer in place for closeness to Dust Collector and offers me good space on either end.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y200/Trackerman/Woodshop%20Layout%20and%20Projects/Workshop-3.jpg

[Gary Lange]

Well it must be alright cause I don't see any negative remarks.

[Chris Dodge]

I see no better place for the tablesaw, that is really my only concern. Will there be enough room for any large pieces of wood to be cut? It looks like you have about 9 feet in front of and behine the table saw. As long as you aren't cutting 8 foot ply sheets you should be ok.

Put as many machines on mobile bases as possible. You will probably find yourself moving things around if you have any big projects.

You must be a big Grizzly fan! I have their 8" jointer and love it.

[Ted Jay]

I see no better place for the tablesaw, that is really my only concern. Will there be enough room for any large pieces of wood to be cut? It looks like you have about 9 feet in front of and behine the table saw. As long as you aren't cutting 8 foot ply sheets you should be ok.

Put as many machines on mobile bases as possible. You will probably find yourself moving things around if you have any big projects.

You must be a big Grizzly fan! I have their 8" jointer and love it.

I would look at putting the RAS and the Jointer where your assembly bench is located, and putting the assembly bench in the same area as the TS. I imagine you would want the assembly table "center stage" along with the TS.

I'm assuming the long hallway is the entry? Chris has a good point with the mobile bases.

I'm crrently in the process of "imagining" a layout, with less room, aka: two car garage.

[Gary Lange]

Thanks for the replies and help. I live about 15 min. from Grizzly Showroom Warehouse here in Mo. so I figure if I need something for the tools it is as close as you can get. I think Mobile Bases is a great idea for the tools because it give movement to them until you figure out where you really want them. Now to get some 220 lines run and put the floor down.

[larry merlau]

gary another thought would be to put your jointer next to your tsaw, closer so you can walk around it rather than between them and also the duct work for dust collection could be simplified. or if you have access to a industrial engineer freind they are great for making the most of said space and workflow ideas.

[Gary Lange]

These are some great ideas for sure. I will have to really think about that Jointer next to the table saw Larry that would cut down on some piping. Right now I am thinking of building MDF Boxes say 5" square around the outside edges on part of the floor as dust collection shoots. I can then put the floor over the top of that since I have almost a 9' ceiling. That would put them out of the way and should provide plenty of suction for the tools with the 2hp collector.

[Stephen Dixon]

I think you are on the right track by posting your plans, and letting some of the old timers critique them. It lets you get some value from people with similar problems, and you still get to do it the way you want. That being said, I would look at a few infeed/outfeed issues, and the room to use your Radial Arm Saw which appears to be your primary cutoff saw.

I would exchange the bandsaw and the RAS, this lets you use the longer space of both rooms for cutoffs from the RAS, and lets you set the Band saw at the outside corner near the entryway, which will allow you to swing material around the corner when cutting curves.

I would also move the Scrollsaw and the Drill Press to the small room, not much room needed for these two items, and put the workbench in the main room behind the tablesaw. Then you can use it for outfeed support, for both the tablesaw and the RAS.

I might try turning the Tablesaw to some angle that maximizes your infeed/outfeed footprint from the entryway to the corner.

Putting the Dust collector in the corner of the small room where the deepsink is shortens the runs but may be too much hassle to deal with to move the sink.

Steve

[glenn bradley]

I keep my (rolling-torsion-box-top) assembly table near the TS. I built it heigth-wise to act as a catch table for long stock or sheet goods when not doing other duty. BTW, I went through eleven revisions on paper before I started actually bolting things down.

Enjoy the journey!

[Steve Clardy]

If you install an outfeed table for your saw, you might be cramped with the radial arm there where it is at.

[Gary Lange]

Looks like I got to make some changes and try again. What do think of a 5" square MDF box around the outside of the floor. I plan on setting it on the floor and the building inside that for the tools with the top screwed on so accvess can be made if needed.

[Steve Clardy]

Dust collection tube. I'd go with 6" I think.

[Ted Jay]

Thanks for the replies and help. I live about 15 min. from Grizzly Showroom Warehouse here in Mo. so I figure if I need something for the tools it is as close as you can get. I think Mobile Bases is a great idea for the tools because it give movement to them until you figure out where you really want them. Now to get some 220 lines run and put the floor down.

Is this in a basement? are you building a floor over concrete?
I'm kinda glad you started this post, it's making me think how I may do my layout, before I just start dropping power outlets all over the place.

I kinda re-thought my previous post and came up with this:
1. Switch the jointer and the planer (the planer turned parallel to the wall will allow you to feed it through without having to turn it all the time or move other equipment.)
2. Put the scroll saw in the room with the sink (usually your doing smaller pieces with a scroll saw and the footprint for material space for it is smaller.)
3. Move the drill press around the corner where you have the assembly table so you will be able to handle longer pieces, again without having to move equipment.
4. Put the assembly table behind the table saw. I usually find myself using the table as a desk sometimes when I’m building a prototype of something, doing sketches and such. It doubles as a “thinking station”.
5. Put the RAS where the scroll saw is at, next to the band saw.

That's about all my little brain can handle right now:
Later,
Ted

[Gary Lange]

Ted as a mater of fact I have a basement walkout home in Missouri. The room is at the rear and the area where the sink is leads to the outside via the John Deere Room which I am claiming about 8' of for my shop. I am looking at going around the outside edge of the floor with an MDF box that is about 6-1/2" tall over all with about 5" space deep and maybe 6-1/2" wide so as to get the about the same sqaure inch space as a 6" Dust collection Tube. I figure this will make for a need shop and I shouldn't be bothered with static electricity. Once this is built I plan on building the floor up to the top of this box so that I don't loose any of this space. The top of the box will be screwed down so I can get in to clean or check for an obstruction. The tools can be place about anywhere. I do want to get the best locations ahead of time so as to place the 220 lines in the correct places. This has been a dream of mine for a very long time so I have thought about it a lot. I really appreciate the ideas coming here and plan on moving things around again and taking another photo. I don't know what I would do without the internet and these web sites to help me out. I get help here with the workshop and help at fastbass.com for the Bassboat setup. Thanks guys.

[Ted Jay]

Ted as a mater of fact I have a basement walkout home in Missouri. The room is at the rear and the area where the sink is leads to the outside via the John Deere Room which I am claiming about 8' of for my shop. I am looking at going around the outside edge of the floor with an MDF box that is about 6-1/2" tall over all with about 5" space deep and maybe 6-1/2" wide so as to get the about the same sqaure inch space as a 6" Dust collection Tube. I figure this will make for a need shop and I shouldn't be bothered with static electricity. Once this is built I plan on building the floor up to the top of this box so that I don't loose any of this space. The top of the box will be screwed down so I can get in to clean or check for an obstruction. The tools can be place about anywhere. I do want to get the best locations ahead of time so as to place the 220 lines in the correct places. This has been a dream of mine for a very long time so I have thought about it a lot. I really appreciate the ideas coming here and plan on moving things around again and taking another photo. I don't know what I would do without the internet and these web sites to help me out. I get help here with the workshop and help at fastbass.com for the Bassboat setup. Thanks guys.
So your going to "float" a floor over the concrete floor using plywood I guess?
Also, that means your loading of wood into the shop is through the sink room? Well, that does add a small kink to the layout. You don't want things in your way with a load of wood or 4X8 sheets. (Theres nothing like spending $40 - $50 for a sheet of quality plywood, and end up with a deep scratch on one side that you scraped against the bandsaw, by trying to sqeeze it through the room.
You can always forget the floor and let the equipment sit on the concrete, and cut a kerf in the floor to run a conduit line to the TS.
If you add slots on the sides of the "dust collection box" with a "slide" at each slot you could just sweep the sawdust up to the slot, slide the door open... straight to the DC. Hey.... that means you don't have to bend over to pick up sawdust!!! (the lazy side of my brain likes):p

[Norman Hitt]

Gary, first, let me say that I have never tried using square ducting for dust collection, Buuuut, in all my reading on the subject, I have come across some dissertations in a couple of places on the subject, (complete with pics/diagrams) and they said that square or rectangular ducts were not very effecient, at least not nearly as effecient as round ducts, and you would also still need to have long radius curved or "Y" connectors to that duct to make it work, "No T connections" whatsoever. I just mention this so you can check it out before doing all that work and maybe not being satisfied with the results, 'course, I guess you could lay round duct inside that box.

Good Luck with your project.

[Gary Lange]

Hey, Norman where did you find the info on the square dust collection. I would like to get some ready on it before I commit. I am thinking that the shape shouldn't matter that much as long as it is enclosed. It should draw a suction whatever the shape. But that is just what I am thinking and I have been wrong before.

[Gary Lange]

I have revised the plan and changed the photo as per your feedback. Lets look at this plan and see what can or can't be done.

[Ted Jay]

I have revised the plan and changed the photo as per your feedback. Lets look at this plan and see what can or can't be done.

How about deleting the assembly table, and building an extension outfeed table onto the TS and you could move the TS that much further back.

[Don Baer]

How about deleting the assembly table, and building an extension outfeed table onto the TS and you could move the TS that much further back.

Or put the assemble table and TS next to each other then the assemply table can act as an outfeed table plus assembly table..:D
you would have to move the planner a little to the left to allow access but it would be doable and gain you some floor space.

[Randy Denby]

Hey, Norman where did you find the info on the square dust collection. I would like to get some ready on it before I commit. I am thinking that the shape shouldn't matter that much as long as it is enclosed. It should draw a suction whatever the shape. But that is just what I am thinking and I have been wrong before.
Gary, I have been in the HVAC business now for 28 years....designed alot of duct. Altho its basically the inverse of dust collecting, the same principles apply. Yes, you will be able to draw a suction along the square duct, but the static is higher along the corners due to the air being "scrubbed" more at that point.This will result in more fall-out of dust and cause it to settle along the corners, which could be more prone to clogging. Also, plastic or metal is a much smoother channel than a wood duct and would be less static drop per foot as well. So, bottom line, its much more efficient to go round metal or plastic pipe.

[Gary Lange]

Randy thanks for the info. I have already changed my mind and am going to use the 6" ducts. I can move things around easier now since I put the base map under plastic. The Planer is a small portable unit but is still 12-1/2" wide so it can be set anywhere. I can move the TS back and use the assembly table as an outfeed table also which gives me more room around the saw. I again thank you for the input. Like they say measure twice cut once.

[Norman Hitt]

Gary, sorry to be so long getting back, but I've been trying to locate the source of that info. Fortunately, Randy was able to confirm what I had read, (I just cannot remember where). Randy's explanation though, mentioned ALL the items that the article and pictures described that I referred to. Note: I STILL haven't found it. It could have been on Bill Pentz's site, the Dust collection Forum over on WOOD, or in one of the two books I have on DC, by Sandor Nagyszalanczy, or Rick Peters, OR, maybe just an article in one of the WW mags. As short as my memory is getting, I guess it's a wonder that I even remembered the Subject.:rolleyes:

Anyhow, maybe we saved you some time and $$, that none of us seem to have too much of.:D

Good Luck on your project, and keep us posted with it's progress.