CMT Rail / Stile bit question - I goofed

[Larry Fox]

I am hoping that someone here can lend some assistance as I have really done it this time. I have the CMT Sommerfeld Ogee rail and stile set that I am using to make a bunch of raised panel doors (part number 800.521.11). Well, a bit ago I had ocassion to take the rail cutter bit apart. I was careful to lay the shims out in exactly the order in which the came off so that I could put them back. Well, as luck would have it, my little arrangement got "bumped" pretty good and the shims got mixed up. I put them back as I "thought" they should be but it would appear that I was wrong as the cope cut on the rail is not meeting properly with the stick cut on the stiles (a gap of about 1/32).

Does anyone know the proper shim arrangement?

When I bought the set, it came with no instructions or diagrams whatsoever. I have emailed CMT as recomended by their phone maze but have very little expectation of their calling back.

Thanks in advance for your time . . .

Larry

[Steve Clardy]

Not really. But I would suggest doing some test pieces on scrap to get them back in alignment

[Charles McCracken]

Larry,

Here's instructions for the Freud S&R that should also be relevant for the set you have:


Using Shims to Adjust the Fit of Freud 2-Piece Rail and Stile Bit Sets
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Tools required:

½” (13mm) Wrench

*Calipers and a bench vise with padded jaws are recommended.

Freud 2-Piece Rail and Stile Bit Sets are comprised of a profile cutting bit and a cope bit. The profile bit is made with a fixed cutter and groover separated by shims and topped with a ball bearing. The cope bit also has a fixed cutter and a groover but these are separated by the shims and the ball bearing. Extra shims are included with each bit and are stored under the nut. With this configuration two adjustments are possible: the thickness of the tenon produced on the rail ends and the height of the profile. The included shims are 0.1mm (0.004”), 0.2mm (0.008”), 0.5mm (0.020”) and 1.0mm (0.040”) in thickness.
At the Freud factory, optical comparators are used to determine the shims required for a properly fitted stile and rail joint. To accomplish this outside a factory setting requires several trial and error setups and test cuts in appropriately sized stock. Calipers will make it possible to accurately measure the shims and a vise with padded jaws allows for securely fixing the router bit without risk of damage to the collet or bit shank.

A) Mounting each bit in the router table and make test cuts in ¾” thick stock:
1. Unplug the router and follow the router manufacturer’s instructions for installing the profile bit and setting the height.
2. Follow the router table fence manufacturer’s instructions to align the fence with the ball bearing of the bit.
3. Make the test cut along the edge of a wood sample that is ¾” thick and long enough to provide proper control.
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 using the cope bit.

B) The first adjustment is to the cope bit. Test the fit of the test pieces. If the tenon fit is correct skip to section C.
1. If the tenon is loose in the groove shim(s) will be added between the groover and the bearing. If the tenon is tight in the groove shims will be removed.
2. With the router unplugged and the cope bit securely fixed in the collet (or with the bit secured in the padded vise) remove the nut from the top of the bit.
3. Remove the stored shims from under the nut and remove the groover. If the fit was loose locate one of the stored 0.1mm shims and place it on the threaded shaft of the bit. If the fit was tight remove one of the 0.1mm shims from the threaded shaft and add it to the stored shims.
4. Carefully replace the groover and the extra shims and securely tighten the nut.
5. Repeat Section A to make another test cut and repeat this section as necessary until the fit of the tenon is correct.

C) Next adjust the profile bit. With the tenon thickness correct note how the profile fits into the cope. If the joint is properly fitted no further adjustments are required.
1. If the profile is too tall to fit into the cope, shim(s) will be removed from between the cutters. If there is a gap between the top of the profile and the top of the cope, shim(s) will be added.
2. With the router unplugged and the profile bit securely fixed in the collet (or with the bit secured in the padded vise) remove the nut from the top of the bit.
3. Remove the stored shims from under the nut and remove the ball bearing and the groover. If the fit was loose locate one of the stored 0.1mm shims and place it on the threaded shaft of the bit. If the fit was tight remove one of the 0.1mm shims from the threaded shaft and add it to the stored shims.
4. Carefully replace the groover, the ball bearing and the extra shims and securely tighten the nut.
5. Repeat Section A to make another test cut and repeat this section as necessary until the fit of the profile is correct.

[Lars Thomas]

You can't beat that kind of service.

[Mark Rios]

I'm sorry you're having trouble Larry and thanks to Charles for the repair instructions but after reading this thread I learned one great lesson ...............


I will NEVER take mine apart.:D

[Larry Fox]

Thanks Charles (and other posters). Charles, your post makes a lot of sense and I agree that it should work out fine for my set. Based on the symptom I am experiencing and your description, I *think* the issue might be that I didn't cut the cope deep enough. I was using a sled and the end might not have been touching the bearing. I will check it tonight.

Mark, if I knew it would cause this kind of trouble I would never have taken mine apart either. Oh well, live and learn I suppose.

L