Back to my panel glue up problem...

[Tom Fortier]

Before I took some people's advice from here, I tried using my belt sander to "take down" the high spots on my glue up panel that did not align properly with my biscuits. I think I recall reading somewhere that you start that process by sanding diagonally to the grain, so I did. Soon enough, I realized that I should listen to those here who suggested cutting apart my glue joints and starting over, so I did.

My glue up was much more succesful this time, but yields a new problem. The sanding marks from my belt sander don't want to go away. I have used my ROS w/ 40 grit to little avail. It is much better, but I can still see some traces. Should I keep going?

Also, I have a Skil ROS. I think it is ok, but are some ROS's better at material removal? By better, I mean more aggresive.

Thanks...again!!

[Keith Hall]

Tom, I would think that the 40 grit paper is too aggressive to do any kind of finish sanding. I would go to 80, then 100, and then 120 or 150 grit on your orbital sander to remove all scratches. A progression of grits is preferable for a smooth finish.

[Matt Meiser]

Tom, If you have deep diagonal scratches from the belt sander, you might want to start with the belt sander first and sand with the grain to change the direction of the scratch pattern.

As far as lining up panels. I could never get them straight with biscuts. I started doing them without, putting the boards in clamps with alternating directions. Then I saw how David Marks does his and tried that, which is how I do them now. He puts down kraft paper on his bench and lines up all the boards directly on the craft paper. He then clamps from above and uses plastic wrapped bricks to keep the panel flat while the glue dries. Some of the craft paper sticks to the back of the panel, but it comes off easily with a scraper. Now that I have a 15" planer and a drum sander, I'll usually glue up panels thicker then needed, then take them to final thickness with the planer or sander. But if I get them right, there's no need to even do that--I just scrape them and sand with the ROS. That's what I did with the tops of the night stands I just posted.

[Peter M. Spirito]

When i am doing glue ups i cover my bench top with freezer paper available from the grocery store. It is plastic coated on one side and i use it plastic side up. I then keep everything flat using several one gallon plastic jugs of bottled water.;)

[Mark Singer]

If you are gluing long grain to long grain...I would suggest no bisquits....just glue and clamping. Start with to clamps on the bench...apply glue to both surfaces...tighten the clamps until snug and using a dead blow mallet, tap at each clamp until the surfaces are perfectly flush...then really tighten the clamp...move to the next clamp and do the same. Add clamps for the ends and the middle as required...flushing the boards as you go and tightening the clamps. If they won't even out ....put a block below on the board that is lower...then tap the higher....Check for flatness with a framing square...

[Howard Acheson]

I'm with Matt, use your belt sander to remove the marks. Start with whatever grit you used the first time and work up to 100 grit. At that point, if the marks are gone, you can switch to a ROS. However, use 100 grit in the ROS to start and then move up to 120, 150 and then 180.