Fred Voorhees
03-19-2006, 6:49 PM
At least this is how I accomplished it.
Fellow creeker Frank Shic asked about how to layout for an arched door top in another recent post of mine over the weekend. It’s a relatively easy process, one that I use fairly often when laying out for fishmouthed joints in metal work and other areas in my occupation as an industrial and commercial insulator. I was going to tackle this tomorrow after work, but I had some time tonight before the Soprano’s came on so, what the heck. Now, everyone follow along.
Of course, first you need to determine the exact width that you want your doors to be. In this demonstration, I am using the number of 22” as my total door width. That means that I want to set my wing dividers at 11” – or half the total door width.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Freddieboy/Message%20board%20photos/archlesson1.jpg
With the dividers set at 11”, I then draw two lines that intersect as shown to make a ninty degree angle. The place where they intersect, we will call point A.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Freddieboy/Message%20board%20photos/archlesson2.jpg
Place one of the legs of your dividers at point A and swing an arc from one line to the other, in effect, making a 90% arc
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Freddieboy/Message%20board%20photos/archlesson3.jpg
The places we contact the original lines with the 90% arc, we will call points B and C. At points B and C – take your dividers, at the original setting of 11” and place one of the legs on – first either point B or C and swing another arc where shown. Place the leg of your dividers on the remaining point B or C and swing again to get Point D
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Freddieboy/Message%20board%20photos/archlesson4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Freddieboy/Message%20board%20photos/archlesson5.jpg
As shown, above use a straightedge to draw a straight line from Point A through point D.
Now, using the width of your door framework, subtract that from your original divider setting, in my case 11” , in my case 2” – with the result being 9”.
Set one leg of your newly set dividers on point A and swing another arc.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Freddieboy/Message%20board%20photos/archlesson6.jpg
The result will be the following.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Freddieboy/Message%20board%20photos/archlesson7.jpg
Here I am showing the template that I used to form the segments for the arched doors that I built for my Brothers corner hutches in the other post. I also have one sample of a piece of the poplar that I milled using the template. I milled up a few extra in case of chipout or any problems along the way. Just good common sense to do so, in my case since it was the first time trying this and I didn’t know what to expect with the flush trimming and routing operations.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Freddieboy/Message%20board%20photos/archlesson8.jpg
Fellow creeker Frank Shic asked about how to layout for an arched door top in another recent post of mine over the weekend. It’s a relatively easy process, one that I use fairly often when laying out for fishmouthed joints in metal work and other areas in my occupation as an industrial and commercial insulator. I was going to tackle this tomorrow after work, but I had some time tonight before the Soprano’s came on so, what the heck. Now, everyone follow along.
Of course, first you need to determine the exact width that you want your doors to be. In this demonstration, I am using the number of 22” as my total door width. That means that I want to set my wing dividers at 11” – or half the total door width.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Freddieboy/Message%20board%20photos/archlesson1.jpg
With the dividers set at 11”, I then draw two lines that intersect as shown to make a ninty degree angle. The place where they intersect, we will call point A.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Freddieboy/Message%20board%20photos/archlesson2.jpg
Place one of the legs of your dividers at point A and swing an arc from one line to the other, in effect, making a 90% arc
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Freddieboy/Message%20board%20photos/archlesson3.jpg
The places we contact the original lines with the 90% arc, we will call points B and C. At points B and C – take your dividers, at the original setting of 11” and place one of the legs on – first either point B or C and swing another arc where shown. Place the leg of your dividers on the remaining point B or C and swing again to get Point D
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Freddieboy/Message%20board%20photos/archlesson4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Freddieboy/Message%20board%20photos/archlesson5.jpg
As shown, above use a straightedge to draw a straight line from Point A through point D.
Now, using the width of your door framework, subtract that from your original divider setting, in my case 11” , in my case 2” – with the result being 9”.
Set one leg of your newly set dividers on point A and swing another arc.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Freddieboy/Message%20board%20photos/archlesson6.jpg
The result will be the following.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Freddieboy/Message%20board%20photos/archlesson7.jpg
Here I am showing the template that I used to form the segments for the arched doors that I built for my Brothers corner hutches in the other post. I also have one sample of a piece of the poplar that I milled using the template. I milled up a few extra in case of chipout or any problems along the way. Just good common sense to do so, in my case since it was the first time trying this and I didn’t know what to expect with the flush trimming and routing operations.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v202/Freddieboy/Message%20board%20photos/archlesson8.jpg