Finish for park bench

[Bob Noles]

LOML wants me to re-finish an older park bench we have out in the yard under some big oak trees. It is one of those iron side/wood slat jobs that you see everywhere. Most of the old finish on the wood slats has worn off and she has scrubbed the slats down with bleach and got the wood looking fairly decent. I was going to apply some stain to bring back a little color, but I'm not sure of what to use to finish it after that. Would something like BLO or tung oil finish be an option or would I be better off staying with a spar varnish? Bench is not used and is out there just for looks and I have no problem re-coating it every year or two. Just need some options on the best route to go with this.

Thanks and hope everyone is looking forward to a good weekend.

[Doug Shepard]

I did some research when I made a picnic table trying to figure out what the state parks in MI use on their picnic tables, as the finish on those seemed to hold up for a long time. They're using a couple coats of epoxy then following up with a spar varnish over that as the epoxy doesn't have any UV protection. I didn't end up going that route as the cost of the whole project was starting to grow past my budget. But I ran into a lot of recommendations for the epoxy/spar combination on outdoor furniture when I was looking into it. I wouldn't think the BLO or Tung Oil finish would hold up too well outdoors, but I really dont know for sure.

[Steve Schoene]

Oil isn't a once a year option, its a once a month affair, perhaps every other month in the shade.

What kind of wood is in the slats? Some are a lot more durable than others, and for that matter the best option is often to do nothing and let the wood turn grey. (White oak (not red), mahogany, teak, and heart cedar, redwood or cypress might all be used this way.)

Paint is the next option to consider. Much more durable and protective than any clear finish.

If you must have a clear finish, then spar varnish is the best option. But not just any spar, a GOOD marine spar made by Epifanes, Interlux or Pettit. These are not found in the big box stores or in ordinary paint stores-- regardless of the nautical sounding names of the lesser brands--only in marine supply stores. And, they will cost roughly $25 per quart; if they are marked for much less they are either old stock on clearance, or lower quality variants. The spar varnishes require approximately 6 coats, with an annual refresher coat. Repair any ding immediately. Eventually, you will have to strip the varnish and start over.

Giving the wood a sealing coat or two with low viscosity epoxy, before applying varnish may be a good idea, and may stretch out the recoat time a bit. See the FWW article on the same, sometime in the past year I believe.

[Jim Becker]

Oil-based exterior paint deep tint base...it dries clear, has UV protection and will hold up better than any varnish product. That said, even it will require maintenance over time. "Nature" of the beast...

[Bob Noles]

Thanks guys..... y'all always come thru with the answers. Looks like oil is out, and I especially like the sounds of Jim's suggestion. Looks like I have my work cut out this week :eek:

[Keith Mealy]

Here is some more background on technique, experience, etc. of Jim Becker's recommendation.

Oops, caught up by TOS paragraph I.E.3.c (sorry)

[Moderator Edit: Direct link to another forum removed per TOS (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/terms.php). You can find the referenced thread in the Wood Magazine Finishing and Refinishing Forum and its title is "Outdoor Doors" by poster Farrowcr]