Face frame question.

[Tom Fortier]

I am starting on a dresser project for my daughter. The only "plans" I have are in my head, some henscratch on a notepad, and a couple of pictures. This will be my second project, and first face frame project. Any suggested reading before I begin. I have been inspecting my wife's dresser, so I think I have a pretty good idea which direction to head in, but am interested in drawing off the experience here.

Thanks.

[Carl Eyman]

Pocket screws. Just today I installed a face frame on the bookcase top of a seretary desk that called for a mortised and tenoned face frame. While that may have been the p-roper way "traditionally to have done the jog, I got it done in much less time with much ;ess chance for goofs by using po cket screws to hold the face frame together, but using pocket screws to hold the frame to the carcase.

OK, you tradiontalists hold my feet to the fire. It works for me.

[Joe Mioux]

Carl:

I won't hold your feet to the fire. Those little screws work really well for face frames!

For quick...you can't beat pocket screws.

For aesthetics......well maybe a more traditional joinery is merited.

Joe

[David Eisenhauer]

You may wish to make your FF slightly wider than necessary, attach it to the carcase, then use a flush trim router bit to get it just right. Occasionaly, when the FF is made to the exact width, a part of the carcase has a slight bow in it that doesn't get pulled in by the FF and it doesn't look right. Same thing applies to the FF rail covering the bottom or the "floor" of the dresser unit. If the floor is 3/4" thick, and you want a flush bottom rail on the FF, you may end up doweling the bottom rail to the stiles. Try hard to keep the intermediate rails square to the stiles to make the drawer fitup easier. Best of luck.

[John Hebert]

of rough sketch, even before I start. Then I make my face frames

http://www.cjohnhebert.com/layout1b.jpg
Then I make my face frames. I find it much easier to do the frames first. For openers.... everything is squared on assembly. The second is, I have a real vision now on how it will look and will it fit as far as size and the space its going into. Once satisfied, I can cut all my panels and start a glue up. Its much easier to correct a face frame, than a box once all the pieces are assembled.

http://www.cjohnhebert.com/clamping1b.jpg
Its especially easier when you have separate units to tie together, and you have a clear real time vison of how everything will sit and if any adjustment’s need to be made before it’s all together.

http://www.cjohnhebert.com/detailsb.jpg
I Small or large project.... get into this habit and you will always come out well in the end

http://www.cjohnhebert.com/shippingready2b.jpg

[Jay Albrandt]

Tom,

Check out Marc Sommerfeld's "Cabenetmaking Made Easy" at www.sommerfeldtools.com.

It is a quick way of using a combination of a tongue and groove system for alignment of the FF and cabinet, with pocket screws for speed and strength. If you have a decent router table...this is the way to go. Fast, accurate, and strong.

No affiliation, just happy with the product.

Good Luck,

Jay