Bandsaw Problem

[John Sherrod]

I have succeeded in teaching myself (by imitating to the best of my ability Norm Abrams style) how to use all of the tools in my woodshop except for one. My bandsaw. It has given me no end of trouble. Sidebar- a few years back, I came into a small amount of money, and rather than blow it on useless things like ten hours of skeeball, and a handsome set of matching dogs, I decided to do something constructive with the money (no pun intended) and bought a slew of woodworking tools. Those kind of things that while watching the new yankee workshop I said that if I ever had the money I was going to get. Well, I did. The Omnijig, a router table, biscuit jointer, jointer, planer, etc.etc. and the dreaded bandsaw. I went through all of the tools, learning their "quirks" and just generally being ecstatic being covered in sawdust. But I have NEVER been able to get the band saw to do any form of a curved cut. I went to the local woodcrafters here and the guy was very helpful. He said that the blade should have a ceertain amount of play, and he showed me, and that it also should have the cutting edge directly on the middle of the wheels. Great, I went home reinvigorated. Tightened the bandsaw up, turned it on, and snapped the blade virtually immediately. I was devastated. I put the dang thing in my storage room and there it sits. Is there anyone who knows how to properly set one up, or can show me a link to a page that can clearly tell me? I need the assistance. Thank you.

[Don Baer]

first of all welcome to the creek. Next some additional info would be helpful. What size BS are you using, what type of of guides does it have, what blade are you using, what type/radius of a curve are you cutting, what material are you cutting. Lots of variable to consider.

I made all of the curves on this table in the attached thread on a 12" band saw with a 3/8" carbon blade. The material is 8/4 hard maple.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=30542&d=1138492924

[David Eisenhauer]

How about "an all about the BS" type book by either Lonnie Bird or Mark Duginske? They are both recognized BS guys and have published books readily available. Just a thought.......

[John Sherrod]

Whan I bought the saw< I had already made up my mind that I was not going to be using it to do resawing. I simply needed a bandsaw to cut 3/4 inch softwoods to shape. The blade that came with it it the one that I have been using. It is a 3/8"blade, not a skip tooth, but approx 7tpi, or something like that. I needed it origionally for making the long curved cut on runners for antique cradles that i built. But then after i about wore out the solid guides with little or no effective turning on the cut, I went to plan "b" which has served me well. I use initially a jig saw with an aggressive cut blade, and then I nail a template that i made to the piece and just flush trim it. Anymore it is just the wanting to know what it is that needs done.

[Jim Becker]

John, welcome to SMC.

Firstly, the blade that comes with most band saws is usually "pretty bad". (I'm being kind...) Give a call to Suffolk Machinery (http://www.suffolkmachinery.com) and order a couple or a few Timberwolf blades. Tell them what kind of bandsaw you have (Jet 12") and what kind of cutting you want to do...they will suggest the best blade configuration(s) based on that. You should also consider reading one of the band saw books available, such as something from Mark Duginski so you can be sure you have your tool tuned up and properly set up. It can make a world of difference in your enjoyment of the tool.

Honestly, the band saw is normally a pretty easy tool to use, so I really suspect yours has some setup issues that need to be handled to let it cut well for you.

[CPeter James]

Is is possible that the steel guide blocks were set too far forward and took the set and sharpness off the teeth? As others have said, the bandsaw is pretty easy to use and not too much to go wrong, so I would get a book, and then set it up according to the pictures in the book. They have a lot a room for error and still cut, so I think my original idea is your problem.

You might want to get a set of "cool blocks" or make a set of guide blocks from a piece or hardwood like maple or oak.

CPeter

CPeter

[Tom Spallone]

I was just about to start my own "anti-bandsaw" thread and I saw this one.

Sorry to veer off line for a second but, I might as well be like MY bandsaw.

MY problem with my 10" bandsaw is that I can't for the life of me cut a straight line. The thing ALWAYS wants to curve. It doesn't matter what kind of wood, what thickness. I've tightened the blade, I've loosened the blade, same thing. With a fence, without a fence. I had a whole book on Band Saws. No help whatsoever.

Anybody have ANY suggestions? And if not, I can part with this nice Craftsman 10" bandsaw for say, 50 bucks if you want to come pick it up!:D

[tod evans]

welcome john!
for cutting curves i like a 1/4" 4 tooth blade...02 tod

[lou sansone]

welcome to the creek ... One suggestion is to let us all know sort of where you live and you might find that one of the very knowlegable creekers live near you and could come over and see what might be the problem. I live in CT and could provide some help if we find out we are close by.

lou

[Dave Carey]

For the basic set up issues I'd endorse the suggestion of Lonnie Bird's book (available on Amazon) and would add the Fine Woodworking DVD (available from Netflix) that someone mentioned in a thread long ago.

[Mike Cutler]

John.

Is it possible for you to take a picture of the blade in the guides as you currently have it setup. Some one may see something that looks not quite right.

Bandsaws can be a little persnicity to setup the first time or two, but you shouldn't be having the problems that you are.

The Bandsaw Handbook, by Mark Duginski is a very good book to have around. I'm certain that any book by Lonnie Bird would be just as good. I have Duginski's book.

[Charlie Plesums]

After 40+ years without any bandsaw, we finally got the Delta benchtop. It did a few projects that could have been done as well with a jigsaw. No precision. Terrible drift. Needed realignment every time you adjusted depth of cut or anything. Couldn't follow a line to get a gradual curve in 3/4 inch thick walnut (a $25 jigsaw did better).

I had a very experienced woodworker align it, and it worked fine for at least 2 minutes. I took a class in using a bandsaw, and it didn't get any better. I couldn't see why anyone wanted a bandsaw. Someone convinced me to get the 14 inch Jet, so I finally sold the Delta for next to nothing. (The person who bought it said it was great, but I saw it for sale again a couple months later... for next to nothing)

The Jet was enough better to see the value of a bandsaw, but dust collection was terrible. Then I saw the Grizzly G0555 - recognized identical components and castings. But a good dust port, and a bunch of extra features that I wanted but didn't think I could justify. So a couple months later when someone walked into my shop and said "that is the kind of bandsaw I want to get. If you every want to sell yours...." And a week later I had the grizzly. Good saw. Every bit of the quality of the Jet that cost much more, plus the extra features and dust collection.

The Grizzly does fine on "light" cuts, making curves in furniture pieces, and roughing bowl blanks. With a sharp (almost new) blade and careful use, it does fine on resawing. It is really a great hobby-grade 14 inch bandsaw. But after a couple years with the 14 inch, I can see the advantage of the "professional" grade machines. Someday I hope to have a MiniMax or similar 20 inch or larger bandsaw with a carbide blade, etc.

I have other Delta and Porter Cable tools, so I am not down on the company. But I sure feel ripped off by that benchtop Delta bandsaw. In retrospect, better blades would probably have helped, but I don't think it would ever have been great. Personally I would consider a 14 inch bandsaw about minimum... the Jet was fine, but the Grizzly was better. The bandsaw I really want is several times as expensive as either of these, which is why I still smile when I use the 14 inch Grizzly (and may even keep it for smaller cuts when I eventually get my big bandsaw).

[Ron Blaise]

No matter what kind of saw you have, blades & guides make all the difference. I had an old Craftsman 12" for years and couldn't make a straight cut on it till I bought a good blade (Timber Wolf). What a difference! Even with the marginal guides that saw had I was able to saw much straighter and faster.