Bookcase question

[Dennis Petrillo]

Hi All,

I'm building an 8' long book case and my intention is to build it in modules, each being 2' and joining them together, then installing one face frame for the entire unit as opposed to a face frame for each unit. Using that approach, I won't be able to join the cabinets to each other using the face frame of each. So I'm looking for any suggestions on how to effectively join the cabinets prior to installing the face frame. Should I screw them together through the cabinet sides or is there a better way.

Thanks in advance.
Dennis

[Lamar Horton]

Dennis, screwing them together would be the easiest way and would be the way I would do it. They make "cabinet connectors" for this very purpose.
http://www.wwhardware.com/media/products/b/b612.jpg (javascript:window.self.close())

[Jim Becker]

I agree with Lamar...that's the way to go. As an alternative, trim-head screws carefully placed for limited visibility could also do the job to join each carcass. This is likely the method I'll use for the new bookcases that will go in our loft "library" when I get to that part of my "list"...someday.

[Jamie Buxton]

How are you fastening the one big face frame to the boxes? I'd start from that issue and work backwards. If you're going to use glue behind and brads through the face, maybe you don't need to bother fastening the boxes together beforehand -- the face frame will be what holds them together.

BTW, for big assemblies like that, it works great to make the bookcase modules as simple boxes which sit on one long toe-kick module. The toe-kick module goes in first. You level it with shims and fasten it to the floor. Because the toe-kick is level and flat, the boxes sit on it without alignment issues.

[Ellen Benkin]

I did something similar for a "built in" looking bookcase. I built modules because 1) I couldn't get the whole thing into the room in one piece and 2) I certainly couldn't move the whole thing as one unit. My sizes were about the same as yours, also. I made the modules with drilled holes for the shelf pins and then used some of those holes to hide the screws I used to connect them. Nothing fancy about it, just set them on the base unit (leveled and screwed to the floor), clamped them together, and screwed them together. I then applied a "face frame" with glue and small brads. My units are also securely attached to the wall -- earthquakes, you know. The room may crumble around it, but it won't go anywhere! By the way, to make it look truly "built in" I used trim baseboard that matched the existing baseboard in the room.

[Jim DeLaney]

Dennis, screwing them together would be the easiest way and would be the way I would do it. They make "cabinet connectors" for this very purpose...

Lamar,
Can you divulge your source for those? A quick run through a couple of hardware catalogs gave me 'no joy' in finding them.

[Craig Feuerzeig]

My favorite method is this way. Glue the horizontal frame members to the carcass and make up the verticals this way:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f339/cfeuerzeig/DSCN0247.jpg

I use the dado for alignment purposes. Slide between the carcasses and screw from either side. This covers the 3/4" sides plus overhang.
Hint: Slightly oversize (lengthwise) the horizontals to ensure nice tight joints after assembly.:cool:

The above is not symmetrical, by the way, as I have a half inch scribe added on the wall side.

And if you're interested in a pointer on gluing up that 8 foot length, you can meet me down in the manufacturers forum.:D

[Jamie Buxton]

Lamar,
Can you divulge your source for those? A quick run through a couple of hardware catalogs gave me 'no joy' in finding them.

Here's one source -- http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/GroupID/Fasteners%20%26%20Screws/CatID/Screws%2C%20Connecting/showprod/1

[Joseph N. Myers]

Another source is Customer Service Hardware, CSH, www.cshardware.com (http://www.cshardware.com), 1-800-882-0009, great prices, not so great web site. (If you log in, go under Fasteners, it is Adobe so it takes a while to load).

Part numbers H.1004739 (screw) and H.1004745 (cover), 32 - 41 mm (for 3/4"), .12 & .04 = $.16. Minimum quanity is 100 but typically, CSH is much cheaper than other vendors.

To get wholesale prices, its a $50 minimun. Check out their other items and you will see many "must have" items at really great prices.

Regards, Joe

[Dennis Petrillo]

Thanks for all the replies and great suggestions. The connectors do look like they will do the job.

I do intend to glue the face frame to the cases and pin nail it until the glue sets.

This will be going in the basement so I won't be able to nail a base to the floor. In fact I hadn't planned on a base at all and just planned on a free standing case. Any downsides to this?

Thanks again.
Dennis

[Tom Hamilton]

Hi Dennis:

These three "lockers" for the granddaughters are held together with the cabinet fastener pictured in the previous post.
33919

I got mine from the local Rockler store.

The lockers sit on an uneven tile floor and are held plumb and flush by the fasteners. Two at the top and two at bottom.

Tom, in Houston, looking forward to pics of your bookcases.

[Jamie Buxton]

This will be going in the basement so I won't be able to nail a base to the floor. In fact I hadn't planned on a base at all and just planned on a free standing case. Any downsides to this?

Thanks again.
Dennis

I've never met a basement floor which was anything close to flat. They probably exist someplace, but they're rare. My earlier suggestion of a separate toekick goes double here.

It isn't essential to fasten the toekick to the floor. Use wood shims to level it, and dribble glue on top of the shims before you slide them under the toekick. Then put a little glue between the toekick and the bookcase modules, and it'll all hold together.

[Dennis Petrillo]

Thanks Jamie!

The book case is only going to be 3' high. What would you suggest to use as a base and if you have any thoughts on height I'd appreciate it. Since the case is not very high my goal was to keep the bottom shelf relatively close to the floor (2" - 3").

BTW, nice web site.

Thanks
Dennis

[Jamie Buxton]

Thanks Jamie!

The book case is only going to be 3' high. What would you suggest to use as a base and if you have any thoughts on height I'd appreciate it. Since the case is not very high my goal was to keep the bottom shelf relatively close to the floor (2" - 3").

BTW, nice web site.

Thanks
Dennis

I'm accustomed to building them for kitchens, where the toekick base is generally 4" tall or so. There's no real reason for that -- it is just custom. For your low bookcase, it could be maybe 2-3" tall. The primary reason for the height is that you want to be able to build it straight and flat in the shop, and have it stay straight while you shim it in place in the basement. I build the base from 3/4" ply standing on edge in a kinda ladder-like structure. That is, 8'-long strips at the front and rear, with strips running front-to-back every couple feet. You can use glue and brads to assemble it, or glue and pocket screws.

[Jim Becker]

I've never met a basement floor which was anything close to flat. They probably exist someplace, but they're rare. My earlier suggestion of a separate toekick goes double here.

It isn't essential to fasten the toekick to the floor. Use wood shims to level it, and dribble glue on top of the shims before you slide them under the toekick. Then put a little glue between the toekick and the bookcase modules, and it'll all hold together.

Concur. In fact, I did my kitchen this way and would likely use a separate toe kick platform just about universally for cabinetry like this.

[Joseph N. Myers]

I would also screw the bookcases into the wall (assuming that they will be against the wall). Besides making them more stable, it would be safer, i.e., kids climbing up on them. And Ellen mentioned doing the same thing for earthquakes. I usually use 4 of them, 2 top, 2 bottom and pocket hose would great.

Regards, Joe

[tod evans]

Dennis, screwing them together would be the easiest way and would be the way I would do it. They make "cabinet connectors" for this very purpose.
http://www.wwhardware.com/media/products/b/b612.jpg (http://javascript<b></b>:window.self.close())

for those looking for this fastener we call them "sex bolts" in this part of the country..02 tod

[Dennis Petrillo]

Thanks to all for the feedback.
Dennis