Andy Hoyt
03-12-2006, 11:21 PM
I left off a couple of days ago (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=32725) after getting the T&G and sheetrock installed on the walls and the T&G begun on the roof. That's all done, and I've moved onto the next elements on the project.
33816
So after the interior wall and roof finishes are installed to the exterior of the structure it's time to get the SIPs attached. These are Structural Insulated Panels and in the real world a typical configuration for them is to have 5 1/2 inches of expanded polystyrene foam sandwiched between two layers of OSB. In my world I use a product called Gatorfoam which is essentially the foamcore that you see in most craft stores with the additional element of a layer of some form of proprietary paper bonded to both sides. Kinda looks like an SIP and is easy to work with. In areas that will be totally covered I just slap on a big piece. In other areas (such as the far end of the roof where everything will stay exposed in a cutaway) I install the board in four foot wide strips to more closely simulate the real thing. Note too that the door has been "blocked" and that wall is now quite sturdy.
33817
I chose to wrap the roof all the way around the gable and onto the opposing roof pitch for about four feet. I did this solely because if I didn't then the appearance of the gable end of the structure would be asymetrical and look stupid.
33818
And that means that I also have to build out a wee bit of wall below that roof. This shot is also a shamless plug for my love of makings curls.
33819
Here's the gable wall exterior which will be fully built out. And the only reason for doing so is so that the door jamb thickness will match those of the windows. In the real church the exterior siding is a horizontally run 1x6 square edged cedar plank installed on 1x4 strapping run vertically at 16" on center. I cheat here by just installing some 1x12 stapping at 24" on center. Just as good - if not better - and goes much quicker. No one knows but you and me.
33820
And here's a nice close up of the eave. I milled a piece of CVG WRC into a 1/2 x 12 plank (in scale) and bent it and glued it to the building as a transition piece. It's a actually quite tricky figuring out where to stop building these things. This little area on the wall that's shaped like a lamb chop and probably has only 24 square feet (or inches in the the real world) pretty much consumed my entire afternoon. There's a lot of tension of that piece so I'm letting the glue enjoy a full night of curing before I start trimming it in place.
That's it for now. More later.
33816
So after the interior wall and roof finishes are installed to the exterior of the structure it's time to get the SIPs attached. These are Structural Insulated Panels and in the real world a typical configuration for them is to have 5 1/2 inches of expanded polystyrene foam sandwiched between two layers of OSB. In my world I use a product called Gatorfoam which is essentially the foamcore that you see in most craft stores with the additional element of a layer of some form of proprietary paper bonded to both sides. Kinda looks like an SIP and is easy to work with. In areas that will be totally covered I just slap on a big piece. In other areas (such as the far end of the roof where everything will stay exposed in a cutaway) I install the board in four foot wide strips to more closely simulate the real thing. Note too that the door has been "blocked" and that wall is now quite sturdy.
33817
I chose to wrap the roof all the way around the gable and onto the opposing roof pitch for about four feet. I did this solely because if I didn't then the appearance of the gable end of the structure would be asymetrical and look stupid.
33818
And that means that I also have to build out a wee bit of wall below that roof. This shot is also a shamless plug for my love of makings curls.
33819
Here's the gable wall exterior which will be fully built out. And the only reason for doing so is so that the door jamb thickness will match those of the windows. In the real church the exterior siding is a horizontally run 1x6 square edged cedar plank installed on 1x4 strapping run vertically at 16" on center. I cheat here by just installing some 1x12 stapping at 24" on center. Just as good - if not better - and goes much quicker. No one knows but you and me.
33820
And here's a nice close up of the eave. I milled a piece of CVG WRC into a 1/2 x 12 plank (in scale) and bent it and glued it to the building as a transition piece. It's a actually quite tricky figuring out where to stop building these things. This little area on the wall that's shaped like a lamb chop and probably has only 24 square feet (or inches in the the real world) pretty much consumed my entire afternoon. There's a lot of tension of that piece so I'm letting the glue enjoy a full night of curing before I start trimming it in place.
That's it for now. More later.