Turning A Weed Pot.....

[Corey Hallagan]

Couple questions on turning a weed pot. I don't have any chucks for the lathe. Can I just turn it between the centers on my lathe? The part and cut it off then drill a whole on the drill press? I got a couple books coming on this but haven't yet received them.

Thanks,
Corey

[Gary Max]

Cory what I have found is that the hole needs to be drilled first---if you do it the other way the drill will bust the weed pot. I made a little jig last year that will make it possible for you to cheat---I will run out to the shop and get you a pic.

[Corey Hallagan]

Thanks Gary! Also, since this would be green wood then I need to use the DNA bath after rough turning or can a weed pot be turned completely in one shot and finished?
Thanks,
Corey

[Gary Max]

Here is what I made
Your hole is just a tad bit bigger than the post.
I think I used a 1/2 drill bit and just made the jigs post a little smaller.
I made my jig out of Black Locust so it would not break.
You are wanting the post to carry the end of the weed pot.
You can not over tighten your tail stock or it will crush your blank--so you are looking for snug. You must turn with a light touch if you try and rush it you will just push the jig and blank off the lathe.
I was turning a 100 weed pots and needed a fast way to get them done.
Oh I made mine out of Dry Cedar so DNA did not play a part in this project.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Corey you could use your faceplate and leave enough wood you could part it off. I did this on the first couple I did. I screwed the faceplate to the bottom end. I left enough wood that I could form the bottom and then just parted it off. The only thing to watch for is to make sure you leave enough wood that you don't hit the screws holding the wood. Just a thought.

[Corey Hallagan]

Thanks Gary, I understand perfectly. That will work. Bernie, thought about that too on the faceplate end as well.
So, will I have to rough turn it and then DNA it and finish it? Wasn't there something about using a microwave as well to dry it

corey

[Gary Max]

I use the mic for real small stuff like pen blanks.
You have to go slow
Run it for 30 to 60 seconds then let it cool----keep repeating until it quits steaming
Plus it ain't real good for you mic either

[Jim Becker]

Yes, you can do it between centers (predrilling in this case) or use a glue block on a small faceplate to mount the workpiece. I tend to the latter for these kind of things as it's easy to part off even after finishing, leaving only a little hand work on the very bottom.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Corey I just rough mine out and then remove the face plate. Go straight to the DNA for 24 hrs, wrap in newspaper and cut a opening in the newspaper on the end you drilled. Leave about 1/2" of newspaper around the end. I use masking tape to hold the newspaper. Let it dry about 2 to 3 weeks and then put back on the face plate and turn her to final size.

[John Hart]

Corey, I emphatically second Gary's method of predrilling and using his jig idea. My problem was that drilling the hole after turning usually caused a slight off-center hole that really shows up.....along with the cracking problem, which I also had.