New MM16 - Setup Question

[John Hulett]

Okay, so today we got the 240v circuit installed, replaced the 2 foot pigtail with an 8 foot cable w/ twistlock plug. Everything is working. The blades came in the mail this week, and now's the time to get one installed.

As I was alligning the blade on the wheels, I quickly realized that the blade seems to be rubbing up against the right side of the throat plate. I figure it'll go away once I put some tension on it. No dice. I haven't seen any information relative to lateral adjustment of either wheel. See the attached pictures, and let me know if you have any suggestions. Not so much of a question as it is a request.

[Chris Rosenberger]

John,
I am not at the shop right now so I can not check my saw. I believe you can adjust the table. It can be adjusted were the trunnons attach to the table or were the support base mounts to the cabinet.

Chris

[Dan Owen]

John

That is done by adjusting the table. This could take a little time, but once it is set, youre done and should'nt have to be adjusted anymore. You will also want to get the table square to the blade during this process.

[Jim Becker]

You can move the whole table assembly by loosening four bolts...the same ones you use to align the slot with the blade. Loosen them and move the table/trunnion assembly just a hair to fix the issue. I had to do this with my MM16 "two generations ago" and it was an easy and quick adjustment.

[John Hulett]

While I'm at it, what is that thing on the chain for? It's not mentioned in the manual at all - either one.

[Brian Hale]

While I'm at it, what is that thing on the chain for? It's not mentioned in the manual at all - either one.

Keeps the 2 halves of the table flush

[John Hulett]

Keeps the 2 halves of the table flush

How is it used? I see a place or two it might go, but the end doesn't seem to fit anywhere.

[Brian Hale]

On mine there is a bent piece of steel rod on a chain which presses into a hole in the front of the table. The slot where the blade is splits this hole in the table. Should be a very snug fit, perhaps even tapered a bit.

Brian :)

[John Hulett]

I've got the table situation straitened out and squared away (both literally and figuratively), and now I'm trying to get the guides set. Actually, I'm feeling pretty good about the bottom guide, but the top doesn't seem right.

The manual describes setting the blade such that the teeth of the blade protrude slightly from the front of the wheel. It also describes setting the thrust bearing only one time. I've started with the 1/2" blade (only because I didn't want to remove the mobility kit yet); I've got the blade set as prescribed so the teeth protrude from the wheel. However, it doesn't seem that I can get the thrust bearing close enough to the back of the blade.

Please take a look at this new set of pictures and tell me what I'm doing wrong. The thrust bearing is at least 5/16ths away from the back of the blade; any closer and it's touching the blade guard.

Does the teeth protruding only apply to blades > 1"? That's the only way I see it working.

[David Eisenhauer]

It seems there was a thread on something like this not long ago over on the MM owners forum. I hazily remember something about a guide lineup or a one time setup in certain cases. I'm lucky, I live in Austin and picked my saw up after the MM crew set it up for me. Best of luck.

[Paul B. Cresti]

John,
You are correct in that if you set a smaller blade with the teeth off the edge of the wheel you will not be able to get the thrust bearing out far enough to support the back. There are two choices: 1) as long as it is a steel type blade with no carbide teeth and no real "set" you can run the blade in the middle of the wheels...this will move the blade back and allow the thrust bearing to reach. 2) as you see in one of your pics the metal telescoping blade guard stands in the way of the thrust bearing (one one side) moving forward...you could cut a notch out of the metal to allow the bearing to move further forward. I guess a dremel or a bit in a drill would work.

Bigger blades like the 1" trimaster w/ the carbide teeth need to overhang the tire on the MM's because the tire is flat....the teeth are wider than the blade body and will cut a groove in your tire. Saws like the Agazzani, which I sold to get a MM24, have crown tires and generally speaking you run all blades in the center with exception to the carbide tipped ones.

By the way, I am going to be making up a fence system for my stock cast iron fence. I am designing it to be both real tall for resawing and then short for ripping. I initally thought the Agazzani fence was better and it is if you do not touch either one but when you get into heavy resawing a very tall fence is really handy and the aluminum faced fences make it hard to attach tall faces to it.....that is where a cast iron fence gives one the opportunity to attach to ....anyway I will post some pics of what I come up with to give you guys some ideas

[Sam Blasco]

Does the teeth protruding only apply to blades > 1"? That's the only way I see it working.

You do have an adjustment on the blade guard, itself - little nut and bolt that attaches it to the piece at the bottom of the post. You should be able to pull it forward a bit. It is also okay to run the blades further back on the wheel, for a 1/2", you can pretty much have the point of the teeth just behind the edge of the tire. With 1/4" and smaller blades you can easily run them closer to the center of the tires.

If you want to keep all your blades at the front edge (can get scary with smaller blades, but it can be done) you can cut back your blade guard about 1/2" on the thrust bearing side, and that will allow the thrust bearing to come further forward. Since I use my phenolic blocks for guides on the smaller blades this is not an issue for me. See this thread: http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=26314

And, as you see in that post, I have the older style guard that required a plastic cover in the place where your metal guard comes down. Don't know what happened to that plastic piece ;)...

I usually recommend commissioning a bandsaw with the type of blade you will have on there most of the time. For me, it is a 1" blade, my main dimensioner. That sets my base settings and all other blades can deviat from that base as needed (ie, tracking, guide location, co-plane, front to back square, etc.)

hope this helps
s

[Doug Shepard]

... I've started with the 1/2" blade (only because I didn't want to remove the mobility kit yet);....

John - just FYI.You dont have to remove the whole mobility kit, just the wheel on the infeed side. Just pull out the clevis pin and pop the wheel off and the door will be able to clear for wide blade changes.