Logging in Michigan (Walnut)

[Ted Christiansen]

Milled this walnut today using Husqvarna 385XP & Logosol Timberjig. Took about 3 hours - all 8' long boards & cut to 5/4. This was the first time I had to buck the tree into sawlog lenghts myself. That part I did Wednesday after work. I managed to get the saw pinched twice, and learned valuable lessons to prevent that from happening.

The butt log yielded 10 boards about 14" wide. I used a 25" bar with Stihl PMX (narrow) chain for this log. The tree forked into a Y after the butt log. One of these yielded 3 boards about 10" wide. The first cut was with the 25" bar, all cuts thereafter with the 16."

As is typical with walnut, the first board or two after squaring to a cant has some sapwood (blonde in color).

The pictures show the 2"x6" guide rail that the saw & Timberjig rides on. Also shown is the toolbox I made to store all of the gear: saw, helmut, files, bars, chains, screws, etc. I made a stack of 5 dovetailed boxes in the center of the box to hold all of the small stuff. It weighs a ton, but makes it very easy to pack up quick to go mill a log before it gets chipped or cut for firewood!

Ted

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

What no "Action" pics.....?

Where is the video......... ;) :D

That sure looks like some VERY nice wood, worth the work eh?

How did you think it all went?

Anything you would do differently?

Cheers!

[Mike Cutler]

How do you like the Logosol Ted? I've been considering getting one. What's the pitch on the blade you are using?, and How hard is to maintain a consistent thickness with a chainsaw? How long does it take to get to that stage?
The reason I ask,is that there is always wood available here. Red Oak, Hickory, Ash, Tulip wood, and Birch. Most is free for the taking, believe it or not. Having a portable system like the logosol, and a chainsaw setup to rip, would help get it into manageable sizes.
Post some pics of the logosol in action. I've seen the website,but "real life" photos are always better.
Thanks for the post Ted. Looks like Stu started a movement. Folks are "loggin" all over the place.;)

[John Pollman]

Mike,
I live near Ted and he stopped by a few weeks ago to look at the Cherries I have out back. We talked for a few and he really seems to like his Logosol Timberjig. I haven't gotten the trees down yet but he offered to bring his jig over here when I do get them down and give me a hand milling them. I had never really thought much about a chainsaw mill until I talked to Ted. After he left I came in and logged on to the Logosol web site. Just for kicks I ordered the free information kit and DVD. About a week later it showed up. I watched the DVD and it looks impressive. My saw is a step down in size from Teds but I still think it might work. I'm still thinking about picking up a Timber Jig but just haven't pulled the trigger yet. Why don't you order the info and DVD and see what you think. It looks pretty good to me.

Take care,

John

[Ted Christiansen]

Mike,

I have been very happy with the Logosol Timberjig and Husqvarna 385XP combination. I had a lot of problems with the fence on it, so I now use the guide rail on each and every cut. The results are much better (more consistent thickness).

There is a lot of "free" wood here in Southeast Michigan to. I find logs during my normal travels - work, shuttling my daughter to activities, etc. Most of it sadly is chipped. For select species of wood I am happy to rescue these logs.

I use two different bar and chain combinations: 16 inch and 25". On both of these I use the Stihl 63PMX chain, available from Logosol. I dont think you can order it from a Stihl dealer - it is only sold in Europe. The advantage of this chain is that it is narrower, so the cutting goes faster. With the 25" bar, I can cut full width (20") 8 feet per minute. With the 16" bar I can cut full width (12") 16 feet per minute. Both bars are .050, the 25" is 84 drive links, the 16" is 60 drive links.

As Stu's excellent documentary shows, there are many lessons to be learned to be able to work efficiently. Here are a few:

1. Keep the chain sharp.
I sharpen at each tank full. I started out sharpening with a Pferd filing gauge, but recently started using a battery powered Dremel tool. The Dremel does a nicer job - the chain is really sharp and cutting speed is noticably faster than when sharpened with a file. I can sharpen the 25" chain with it in less than two minutes. A dull chain will pull to one side, the bar usually dips on tip end. This is an indication that the chain needs to be sharpened

2. Keep the bar true.
Over time the chain wears a groove in the bar. You can true the bar using a bar file (available from Logosol), or a belt sander. I like the bar file because you can do it in the field. A bar with this groove in it will have the same symptoms as a dull chain - the cut wont be straight. Trueing doesnt need to be done very often, but you should inspect the bar before each use.

3. Mill the log to a barkless cant first.
Chains dull quicker when cutting through bark because of the embedded dirt. I always cut the log to a three sided cant first, then put the round part on the ground. All cuts thereafter have no bark, so the chain stays sharp longer.

4. Use torx head screws for attaching the guide rail brackets and guide rail
Phillips heads just dont cut it for repeated use. My guide rail brackets and rail are made from 2x6 (instead of 1x material as in Logosol video). I use 2-1/2 inch torx head deck screws to attach these to the log. They last much longer. When the head starts to strip, replace it with a new one.

I dont have any action pictures, I am usually alone and dont even know if my digital camera has a timer feature. I will try it.

I like this setup because it allows me to mill large logs where they lay (assuming noise is not an issue). I even use it in my garage in the winter months (door open of course) to split 14" diameter logs into two halves for further milling on my bandsaw (in the basement). When I find logs like these, I cut to 4 ft and roll them up 2x6 ramps into my pickup. Another advantage is it doesnt take up hardly any storage space in my garage.

Since April 2005 I have cut well over $2500 of cherry, ash, red oak, walnut, elm, white oak (quartersawn). The investment paid for itself rather quickly. I air dry all of my wood. Some is at my folks (4x4x8 stack), and some is in my basement. With forced air heat and air conditioning, I have found that wood will dry to 12% in 4-6 months. Be careful about bugs however. I dont stack any boards inside that have bark on them. When I mill logs on my bandsaw I try to get the bark back outside as quick as possible.

I would recommend this setup to anyone interested in harvesting their own lumber on a small scale.

The only drawback to this setup is that you will get very tired pushing the saw through the wood. On the otherhand, it is a great workout - you wont need to go to the gym. I am designing my own mill similar to the Logosol Timberjig that has a guide rail and crank mechanism. This will allow me to work longer per day for an even better yield.

See my website (in my profile) for more information. I would be happy to answer any questions you might have.

Ted
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[Ted Christiansen]

Here are some pictures:

1. Some ash and walnut logs waiting to be cut
2. My milling toolbox

[Ted Christiansen]

Here are more pictures:

1. Milling toolbox
2. Timberjig installed onto saw

[Ted Christiansen]

Here are more pictures:

1. Saw and Timberjig on guide rail
2. Woodrack - ash
3. Woodstack - ash
4. Woodstack - walnut, ash, cherry
5. Woodstack (at my folks) - walnut, cherry, red oak). The stack is actually a bit bigger now. (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=186304&postcount=26)

[Mike Cutler]

Ted, and John.

Thanks for the info. I was looking to use the Logosol to "rough" the logs and then put them on the bandsaw. It definitely looks doable.
I have an older Echo 660 with a 20" bar. I might try it with that first and if that doesn't cut it, I'll go bigger.
Thanks for the xtra pics Ted. Pictures are worth a 1000 words, or so they say.

John. I'll be getting that video for sure. Thank You for the info.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

OK Ted, no video, but man, great pics ;) :D:D

Looks like you will be set for a while!

Cheers!

[Ted Christiansen]

Stu,

Thanks. You are right - I am set for a while. My wife came into the shop yesterday as I was stacking the walnut and begged me to slow down on my lumber aquisition. I am only allowed to mill expensive stuff like walnut and cherry (sigh).

I plan to use the most/all of the ash to build cabinets for a new table saw island. The current design has too much exposed horizontal surface, which acts as a dust magnet.

Mike - splitting the logs first with the chainsaw works great. I first cut a small slice off the top to get a flat surface. Then I rotate the log and cut it in half. You now have two halves with square corners which can be slid against the bandsaw fence. Works great. Now I just need to make a dolly to get these 4' logs into the basement without having to carry them, or dropping dust and bark chips in the house!

Ted

[Jim Clark]

Ted
Like yourself I also hail from here in Mi.
I live just about exactly in the center of the lower peninsula how about your self ???
P.S
Nice material, Also I'm happy to see that you took extra care in doing a very neat sticker job so air can get around the wood.
Sincerely,
Jim C

[John Pollman]

Stu,

Thanks. You are right - I am set for a while. My wife came into the shop yesterday as I was stacking the walnut and begged me to slow down on my lumber aquisition. I am only allowed to mill expensive stuff like walnut and cherry (sigh).


Ted,
when and if I do get these Cherries down and we can mill them up. I've got plenty of space here to store your share. :D

John

[Don Henthorn Smithville, TX]

I remember quite a few years back there was an article in FWW about a rig a guy built for a chainsaw mill where he stood at the end of the log and I think used a crank or something similar to pull the chainsaw right through the log. Was much easier than straining to push the rig through the cut. Sold all my FWW mags so I can't look up the article. Maybe some one else can help.

[Julio Navarro]

do you remeber the article title or year, I have a membership to FWW I may be able to do a search of the archives?

[Julio Navarro]

I used to live up in Maryland, lots of poplar up there. How I wish I had milled some of the lumber I cut down when I built my houses.

I cut down more than 20 150'+ tall poplars and several oak and who knows what else. They were sold to a small local lumber yard, but still, thinking back now makes me shake my head and dream.

[Ted Christiansen]

Did some more milling yesterday afternoon and have some action pictures as requested (see the website in my profile if this link gets "moderated out" - looking for March 17, 2006):

http://www.caept.com/urbanlumberharvesting/2006_march17/

All of these logs we split into halves for further milling on the Jet 18" 3HP bandsaw. The last few pictures show the milling plaform my dad made. It has ball rollers on which a sled with the log attached rides. This makes it very easy to move the logs along. He is going to add a rope and crank so he wont have to push the logs through.

Ted

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

I dunno Ted, I think you could use a little more wood around your house....... :eek:

Man what a haul!!

Looking good, and action shots are great, they give others who have not done this before a better idea of what is involved.

The milling machine on the bandsaw looks like it will work well.

Thanks for taking the time to share!

Cheers!

PS............. what.......... no video.........?

:D:D:D:D:D

[John Hebert]

I almost hate digging into a pile when it's time to use some. Nice lookin stuff:)

[Ted Christiansen]

Stu,

Yeah I do need more wood (not really). What I have should last me a while. I want to build a kitchen table out of cherry, a new tablesaw island with cabinets all around out of ash with a beech top. The walnut - dont have a use for that yet. I though I might also try building a few shaker pieces out of cherry, perhaps donating one to my daughter's school for a charity auction.

No video...unfortunately not - it would be neat, and I sure enjoyed yours particularly the one that Vaughn touched up a bit. I have spent all of my money on woodworking equipment, including this chainsaw setup (LOL).

Havent broken down and bought a video camera yet, but I should. It would be handy to make some movies of my daughter for posterity. She isnt getting any younger you know.

Ted

[Rob Blaustein]

Fascinating--I love posts like this one and Stu's. And great website Ted.
-Rob

[Garry Smith]

Looks like it did a nice job and a nice haul but thats a lota work. How about haulin it up north tho cut up some big cherry burl for me.
Looks like some new tools may be in my future.

[Tom Sontag]

That is the single best home milling setup I have seen. I really like the way you made the BS able to handle larger heavy cants. Given how difficult lots of chainsaw milling can be, ripping the log into halves and taking it to that sweet setup looks great. Thanks for sharing all the pics.

Anyone wanting to try this would be well advised to copy this BS setup. But remember, these log chunks are still very heavy and it is still probably a two man operation hoisting the log up and moving it through. Plus, there is LOTS of waste slabs, bark etc.

Next time tell her you are only cutting 3 and 4" thick slabs that take forever to dry. You WILL get otherwise unobtainable leg stock and you can always resaw later, assuming you have an out-of-the-way place to dry it. Vary the routine and go for unique pieces; can't argue with that (I think).