My New Workshop Plans...First Cut.

[Gary Stallings]

Well.........after reading lost of threads, looking at others designs, talking to friends and fellow woodworkers, and getting great input from others that are "swimming the creek" (now that I know what that means).......I've come up with some preliminary plans for my shop. I want those following this thread to know that I'm only in the first stages of figuring out what to build. I know I have plenty to learn and decide before digging the foundation but I'm working on it. Hopefully I'll be able to start later this summer. I haven't put these plans in a shop design program as of yet......these drawing are done in PP........the inside design should be close to scale...........the elevations are not......I drew them out quickly just to give you an idea of what I'm thinking at this point. Just looking for some others thoughts on this design. I am new to the creek but have found this to be a great forum for info. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

One question up front........three phase power??....I think I know what it is and what it does but do I need in in a shop like this??....It's not like I will have five or six people working all at the same time.....please educate the uneducated.

[Steve Ash]

Gary, it looks nice. One thing I noticed that I would change is the infeed of your table saw. I'd move it a bit further up (or centered in door opening)so you can bring large stuff through the big doors for ripping. Looks like it could be a bit tight where you have it now. I put mine right smack dab in front of my overhead door just for that reason. Other than that small adjustment, looks real good. One thing you are doing that I wished I would have done is put in a washroom.

As far as 3 phase, you can buy some inexpensive great used tools that are 3 phase for little money.....just my 2 cents. And good luck with your upcoming shop.

[Charlie Mastro]

I agree with Steve about the table saw location :) and the only thing I have to add is I think the assembly table might be a tad large:confused: . We had a 6 x 6 that worked very well in my old "WoodJoint" days and I have yet to build one for my new shop but it may be as small as 4 x 4 as I don't think I will be doing as large a projects as i used to.

[Ed Labadie]

Gary,that looks pretty good. I might move the drill press closer to the assembly area. The DP is used more toward the end of a project than the beginning. Also move the desk right next to the fridge, that will save lots of walking.
If you can get 3 phase power for a reasonable cost, DO IT!!!! Our power company won't even consider running 3ph power to an individual.

Ed

[Gary Stallings]

I think I agree on the table saw........I'll scoot it up a bit. My shop is currently in my basement and I have little space and no assembly table. When I do larger projects I work at a friends shop whose assembly table is even larger than my design. I actually love it. It's large enough to have something clamped and drying on opposite sides or corners while working on the other side with plenty of space. Also large enough for different jigs or stations set up at the same time.

[Frank Pellow]

Gary, that looks pretty close to being the "perfect" shop. The thing that I like best is the gigantic assembly table. Don't let anyone talk you into making it smaller.

I would not bother with three phase power (in fact, when I built my shop recently I didn't).

[Keith Burns]

Just a thought and you may have already thought of it. I think putting your dust collector in the same room with your central heat/ac unit is not good. No matter how efficient the d/c is it will still be dusty there which can get into the ac unit. I would also allow more room to get your dust bag/drum out of the building. Just my nickels worth.

One other thought....why don't you make the whole thing a little smaller:D Man I'd like to have a shop that big:)

[CPeter James]

Three phase power may or may not be available in your location. It is not used for residential distribution, but may be there because of other power company needs. Go look at the poles in front of you house. If there is a cross arm on the very top with three lines on it, or a group of 4 wires hanging in a bracket, then you might have 3 phase available. If you bring it to your shop as a separate entrance, then you will probably have to pay for a load factor charge. This is a reading of the maximum load on the line for a measured period of time. Big tools and compressors can really push this factor very high. It can add a lot to your bill, as much as doubling it. The cost to bring 3 phase to your shop, if it is not right in front of your location is usually charged to the customer and can run into many thousands of dollars. The cost to bring it to the shop is also very high due to the multiple wires and other more commercial type devices necessary. When all is said and done, unless you have a big wide belt sander or other tool with with motors over 5 hp, it is probably not worth it. The load factor alone, can overcome any savings that can be achieved via more efficient motors and less costly motors.

This information is based on many years working with power company engineers bringing 3 phase power to customer's locations ( I was a telco engineer and we had joint pole lines).

CPeter

[Gary Stallings]

Just a thought and you may have already thought of it. I think putting your dust collector in the same room with your central heat/ac unit is not good.

Keith.....the air lised is for the air compressor.......good thought about the access though. I'm still debating on what I want to do about heat/air.

[Brian Triplett]

One thing that jumped out to me is the location of the wood storage, it seems like it is a long way from any door. I would not like to have to carry the wood over everthing to put it on the storage rack. Just my opinion:D

[Gary Stallings]

Thanks for the info.....sounds like it will be too rich for my blood......I'm in the country and it's probably not avialable anyway but I'll look. You are echoing what my brother said except he wasn't sure about it. I think I'll take Franks advise and stick to what I have.

[Larry Browning]

Gary,
This looks VERY similar to my layout. One thing I noticed is that a jointer usually feeds from right to left, so you will need to swap positions of the planer and jointer. Or turn the jointer 180deg so that the both feed the same way. (thats what I did)
I think the feed direction of the shaper has the same problem.

[Gary Stallings]

Larry.....you are exactly right on the jointer and shaper. THe shaper is no problem but the jointer will just have to feed from the same direction as the planer. The controls for my planer are on the top and the right side so putting something up against the left side is the only option.

I've looked at a bunch of plans and took pieces of many but did get some great ideas from your layout. I don't remember the size of your shop but I did like a lot of the tings you incorporated. Anything you would have done differently? Other helpful hints?

[Larry Browning]

Gary,
Having the jointer and planer feed the same direction is not a problem at all. I know that someone mentioned the lumber rack location as a potential problem. My opinion is that for a hobbiest like me, stocking the lumber rack is only done at the beginning of a project, while pilfering through what is already there looking for that extra board and putting back the larger cutoffs is done all the time. So having it positioned so that it is accessable to an outside door is not as important as have it close to the planer, TS and CMS etc. I really like where you is.
I have some more comments, but I have to get back to work now.:cool:

Larry

[Gary Stallings]

Thanks Larry.......will appreciate your comments when you can get to them. This work stuff always gets in the way of my personal time.

[Matt Meiser]

I agree with the above comments on the lumber rack. That and I don't think it is big enough. I built a "huge" lumber rack in my shop. I now have that, a bunch of stuff stored vertically, a shelving unit for shorts about 2' long, and a rolling cart for longer shorts (~3-5') All are full because of deals I've gotten on lumber. One thing you could consider is extending the roof behind the DC room to create a sheltered lumber storage area for long term storage.

Like someone else said, I'd put the drill press closer to the assembly area. Maybe think about switching the grinder and bandsaw with the drill press and mortiser because. That will let you do your rough work on the bottom of the shop and the joinery/assembly at the top. You also might want to think about a rolling cart for your WIP. I found moving from a small garage shop to a larger dedicated shop that one was helpful to have a place to set stuff down.

[Jeff Singleton]

Gary, Your DC is a long way from the two main sources of sawdust, planer and jointer. I would move it to the other side of the shop. Long runs with a DC loose cfm as they grow in length. If you plan on running the DC to the sanders you could swap the lathe, drill press and mortiser with the sanders. I think a phase convertor is in your future. Also, please don't let anyone talk you into plastic DC pipe, static isn't worth it. Run a ground wire, 2 ga. from your DC to a 8' copper ground stake outside the shop. Metal duct work for DC's isn't expensive if you know where to buy. Great size shop and I like what someone else said, don't go smaller with that assembly table. Good luck.

Jeff Singleton
Singleton's Woodworking & Pattern Works;)

[Fred Ray]

Gary, swap th drill press and mortiser for the grinder in your layout. If you do any turning to speak of, you'll appreciate the fewer steps to sharpen the tools. The DP and mortiser fit just as well in the flow of things where you now have the grinder.

Also, forget about three phase power unless you're going to hire a lot of help and/or buy a lot of old big iron machines. 240 volts, single phase will esily run anything in the 10 HP and below range, and electrical equipment, wiring , etc. will be less complex and less costly.

[Gary Stallings]

Thanks for the thoughts guys........I'll work on the plans a bit this evening and post an update. Great thoughts.

[Steve Clardy]

Heres my shop layout. See if it will link over.
The key to a shop layout is material flow. Mine starts at the back of shop, and finish product ends up and the front.

[Larry Browning]

Gary,
A few more comments. Consider moving the workbench out away from the wall. I have my TS turned 90deg from yours and really like it that way. I have a large outfeed table and the workbench behind that for extra support for long boards. If you are concerned about infeed/outfeed space for the TS. Think about what the longest piece you have ripped in the past. I only need about 10 feet max. I have had no problems at all with the TS positioned 90deg to the jointer. Also you should consider the DC ducting as you layout your shop.

As far as heating and cooling go, I have radiant floor heating and a 24,000 btu window AC unit installed in the wall. I absolutely LOVE the radiant floor heating, There is no open flame or blower and is is absolutely hassle free, but it may be a little overkill for our climate. I see that you live in Georgia, do you get a lot of cold weather? If you are interested in more details on what I did, let me know.
I am also pleased with the wooden pier and beam floor instead of concrete. It is SO much eaiser on the feet and back. It also give me the option of having the elec outlets to the various machines in the floor, and they can be moved if I so choose. I also have put some of the DC ducting under there as well. Just be sure you go with 2x10 or 2x12 for the floor joists. (don't listen to the builder like I did) All of my heavy machines are placed over the center beam for support. I added extra support under the jointer and planer (what a hassle)

[Larry Browning]

More thoughts,
I have the bathroom adjacent to the finish room which is nice when working with WB finishes for cleanup.
I know that my lumber storage area seems to expand outward from the wall. That might become an issue if it blocks the bathroom door.
I like the doors on both ends. You could get a nice breeze going thru there on a nice spring day!

[Mark Singer]

This is basically a great layout and similar to mine. Couple of small ideas...move the TS down to align with the doors as mentioned. Move the bandsaw and angle it so the doors and provde infeed for resawing lor ripping long boards. Increase the length of the tablsaw out feed table, so a full 8 foot sheet is supported after the cut

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Very nice plans Gary!! I can't wait to watch the progress.

[Andy Hoyt]

I agree with almost everything already said, so I'll touch on something no one else has.

The lathe and your grinder need to be in close proximity to one another.

And I'd slide the lathe away from both walls a bit, getting it out of the corner. In a perfect world you'd want to be able to walk all the way around it.

[Mark Singer]

One other thing.....I really like the workbench away from the wall and more central in the shop. It is great to be able to work around a piece on all sides. Or support a large element that hangs over the bench...Just using the front vise to hold a panel and apply trim amd walk around and check it is really great!

[Bob Swenson]

Gary, I don't know how high you are going to go but I see a lot of storage space over the finishing room and the storage room. I would put a window in the storage room, move in the desk and fridge. make a dust free office out it. put in a door to the John, keep that dust free too. Put a slop sink in the finishing room and a computer in the office to run the CarveWright,turn up the music and enjoy.

[Gary Stallings]

Once again.......thanks for all the great input. I did like and incorporate many of the ideas. So anyway.........here's the latest of what I have come up with.

1. I'm scrubbing the 3-phase power idea....not available for me in my area anyway.
2. Check out the TS location now. I rotated it 90 degrees and lengthed the outfeed table. I believe I still have enough room for long boards/plywood etc. and space around the saw to maneuver. Anyone see an issue with it?
3. Not sure why I need to move the workbench as in some comments. Most of my work and assembly will be done on at the assembly table that will also have wood vices on some of the sides.
4. I'm not an expert on the lathe but have done a few projects that turned out well. I've always worked from one side with the lathe up against the wall. Why might I need access to walk around it?
5. I have thought of placing more storage for lumber over the finishing and storage room, kind of in a loft type configuration but I had trouble finding a way to access it well. Any thought here would be appreciated. Also I have considered storing lumber outside under the coverd portion of the shed roofs but I am concerned about moisture. Any thoughts there?

Here is the latest cut.......one day I'll put the elevations to scale...:o






Wish I had more time to swim the creek but my weekends are so jammed I have less time then than on my lunch break.

[Larry Browning]

Gary,
I know that someone suggested you to enlarge the TS outfeed table so that it would support a sheet of plywood after the cut. My outfeed table is 42" wide which makes it is a little over 54" past the back side of the blade. This is more than enough to support a full sheet of plywood. You have yours a full 8ft past the end of the saw table. I am thinking that by making the outfeed table so large you may not be able to reach some of the cutoffs from the saw and it will be taking up too much floor space.
I like the workbench away from the wall because it allows me to work on all sides of the bench, it also allows stuff to hang over all side of the workbench .
Now I know that you really like the size of your assembly table. It looks to me like you have it 11X11. Wow! that's the size of a small bedroom. Have you considered what you will do when a screwdriver or a table leg gets into the middle of the table? You won't be able to reach it. You will have to get a broom handle or something to drag it over to you. Maybe, you could make 2 tables and have one on wheels so that you could put them together to make one big table, but also have it so that you could at least reach half way across it if necessary. Or to pull them apart to look for that set screw you dropped on the floor.

I like the idea of adding the sink to the finishing room. That solves the problem of it not connecting to the bathroom.

[Frank Pellow]

Gary, I still like your BIG assembly table. I like it even better with the vices you mention. Maybe there should even be some dog holes. For the problem mentioned by Larry, you might consider a small open area in the middle that one could crawl too. Perhaps it should have a trap door. I envision this as being something like some people do with their large model train tables.

I like the idea of a loft. How much headroom do you envision. You could build a ladder into one wall for access -and maybe install a fold down "attic" type stair for easier access.

I always thought that the open covered area outside was to be used for lumber storage. I would keep lumber their them bring it into the shop a couple of weeks before I wanted to work with it.

[Gary Stallings]

I'm not sure I disagree with you and I'm still working that over in my mind. I actually have another version that I have worked on with one or two movable workbenchs as an extension to the saw to act as the outfeed table. Im thinking that may be more of a viable option. I still like a large assemble table and have worked on some even larger. I'm going to a friends shop this week to measure some of the benches in his shop and get a better visual. I'm sure I'll update some more after that.

[Rob Russell]

Gary,

You're going to need a dedicated place for your electrical panel - minimum 30" wide and 3' deep, with no piping or ducting running overhead. You should decide where you want to put that. This "working space" cannot be used as storage and must be kept clear.

In terms of 3-phase, you could easily install a rotary phase convertor out in the compressor DC shed. That's just not a big deal. If you wanted to do that, I'd allow about 5' of wall space for your electrical panelboards.

Before you build an 11' square work table, I'd suggest marking something out with string. Try reaching into the middle of that table and then decide whether that's a good size for you.

Rob

[Larry Browning]

Gary,
Can either you or Frank enlighten me as to the advantages of a very large assy table? I do not understand why it is desirable to have a table so big that you cannot reach something that is sitting on it. Even if you had a very large piece of furniture you would still have to move it around to work on it. I could see maybe a U shape or something like that. I just can't envision any situation where something that large would be anything other than awkward and problematic. :confused:

[Gary Stallings]

Larry......here is the other design with the moveable workbench.....I also split the assembly table as you suggested and mad it 10 x 10. Not sure how to make them moveable other than brute force.;)

[Gary Stallings]

Gary,
Can either you or Frank enlighten me as to the advantages of a very large assy table? I do not understand why it is desirable to have a table so big that you cannot reach something that is sitting on it. Even if you had a very large piece of furniture you would still have to move it around to work on it. I could see maybe a U shape or something like that. I just can't envision any situation where something that large would be anything other than awkward and problematic. :confused:

Larry........it's probably a matter of what you are going to make on them and the process you use. On the tables I have worked on before I have had pieces of a project or projects in different stages on every side of the table. It's not so much the middle as it is the length of the sides which gives you lots of room to have many project pieces clamped and gluing while you are working on the other side. At least thats what I've been used to and I like it. Also on a particular side you would have a wood vice near each end of the table where you can clamp a long board in both vices if needed. It's just what I am used to I suppose.

[Frank Pellow]

Larry......here is the other design with the moveable workbench.....I also split the assembly table as you suggested and mad it 10 x 10. Not sure how to make them moveable other than brute force.;)
That would probably be detter than the hole in the middle that I suggested. A suggestion about moveability -how about placeing wheels on one part but noit the aother then fastening the two parts together with sliding bolts.

[Mark Pruitt]

Gary,

VERY nice!!! In addition to the other comments, FWIW I'd suggest thinking about using sliding doors for the finishing and storage areas; it appears that the doors on the left (as viewed in your drawing) could possibly pose an inconvenience when moving items in and out--especially large items.

Mark

[Frank Pellow]

Gary,
Can either you or Frank enlighten me as to the advantages of a very large assy table? I do not understand why it is desirable to have a table so big that you cannot reach something that is sitting on it. Even if you had a very large piece of furniture you would still have to move it around to work on it. I could see maybe a U shape or something like that. I just can't envision any situation where something that large would be anything other than awkward and problematic. :confused:
Another reason that I would want such a large table, is that I often have several things that I am assembling at once and end up assembling them one at a time than trying to find somewhere to put the first unit while I move on to the next one, etc, etc. Just last week, I assembeled 8 approximately 3' by 3' by 1' cabinets in a little under two hours. I assembled each on my Festool multi-function table then had to move it somewhere - on my table saw (with the blade retracted) , on my jointer infeed, on a couple of saw horses, etc.

[Frank Pellow]

Gary, I remember glancing at the January 2006 issue of American Woodworker and it had plans for a moveable and expandable assembly table about 7' by 5'. I could be wrong about the exact dimensions. I remember thinking at the time I was looking at the article that the design could be used for a larger table.

[Larry Browning]

Ok, that makes since. But I am still hung up on the vast wasteland out in the middle of the table. How about a U shaped table with a hinged countertop piece at the open end that could be closed to make an O shape. Kinda like at a bar (not that I would know anything about what a bar looks like on the inside) That would allow access from all sides AND in the middle.

[Frank Pellow]

Ok, that makes sence. But I am still hung up on the vast wasteland out in the middle of the table. How about a U shaped table with a hinged countertop piece at the open end that could be closed to make an O shape. Kinda like at a bar (not that I would know anything about what a bar looks like on the inside) That would allow access from all sides AND in the middle.
Larry, I like that idea.

[Jonathan Szczepanski]

5. I have thought of placing more storage for lumber over the finishing and storage room, kind of in a loft type configuration but I had trouble finding a way to access it well.
Gary -

Your shop looks like it is going to be great. 36 x 46 is huge! At least by my standards. I would look into adding space above what you have. It doesn't cost much more to increase the height of the roof. The main additional expense is adding stairs. With a second floor, you can move your office and your storage up there freeing up your floor space for whatever you want. You can even store your lumber under the stairs.

I hemmed and hawed over going up myself, but the small additional cost for so much more space was definitely worth it... at least it will be once I'm finished.

Again, the plans are looking great.

[Jim Becker]

Garry, I forgot to post earlier relative to your assembly table, but consider something that can be set up at multiple heights to best suit a particular project. This can easily be done by combining a torsion box surface (stays very, very flat) with rectangular boxes that can be flipped to different orientations. Unless you only make one kind of project, there really isn't a "one height fits all" ideal for an assembly surface. (One of the reasons I put the Adjust-a-bench system under my workbench surface, which is larger than many workbenches since I have to use it for assembly, too)

The loft idea for extra material storage racks is excellent. Consider doing a "porch" in front of it reached by a removable ladder that gives you a place to stand while you slide lumber out of the rack. This is very similar to the storage at Hearne Hardwoods in Oxford PA...there is a place to stand at the upper level so material can safely be pulled.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I thought about lumber storage outside but have vetoed it, I am now getting ready to move mine upstairs to the top half of the shop. This is due to the moisture/humidity issues we have here from time to time. The lathe idea is good on your part...I see no need to walk behind it, but I would put a large dust collection hood behind it, I hope to do that to mine when I get one.

I like the new plan better...loks like all these ideas you incorporated work very well on paper....course the real test is the real configuration once you get it all ready to run.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

PS...Gary...I think the front of the TS should remain parallel to the front of the doorway. Bringing in stock to cut immediately like I do is much easier with the front of the TS facing the doorway. You might tire of trying to turn a 90* corner before ripping [as in plywood right off the truck].

[Gary Stallings]

This can easily be done by combining a torsion box surface (stays very, very flat) with rectangular boxes that can be flipped to different orientations.

Jim, any pics of this type table you are talking about? Sounds interesting.

[Jim Becker]

Jim, any pics of this type table you are talking about? Sounds interesting.

There is a thread or three here at SMC about building torsion boxes...and there is an excellent one on David Mark's site about the same. Although you could use a thinner surface, the reason that a torsion box is so well suited to this application is that it is absolutely flat (if constructed correctly) and stays that way, even if the support under it isn't perfect. Absolutely flat is very important for assembly work as it will greatly improve the consistency of joinery...not to mention make it more enjoyable since you're only fighting your own milling, rather than the variances of your work surface on top of them.

As to the multiple hight idea, I don't recall where I first saw it in print, but I believe it was a shot of Jim Toplin's shop. (I could be wrong on that) The idea is that a rectangular box can be flipped around to vary the height of the surface it is supporting. Let's say you have a box (actually, several of them) that are 12" x 24" x 30". This means, you can place the boxes in three different orientations that will give you a table height of 12" plus the thickness of the top, 24" plus the thickness of the top and 30" plus the thickness of the top. (Those dimensions are arbitrary...one would think about what would work best for them and their work)

[Julio Navarro]

Heres a plan I have been working on. The idea is to have machines back to back to save space, as long as there is enough room around them.

33879

I designed a "carousel" dust collector that can be adjusted to service one machine at a time. You simply turn the down duct so the intlet is facing the machine being used. It all depends on getting a nice tight fit around all the duct connections.

33880

[Larry Browning]

Well, there seems to be no shortage of new ideas around here!

[Gary Stallings]

In what may seem to fellow creekers to be my never ending quest of a shop design..........I've made a few more changes and would like some pros and cons.........mainly the location of the bathroom. In this latest version I have moved it from behind the storage room (see a previous posted version) to beside the finishing room. This puts the bath more readily available to others, provides for more lumber rack storage, and puts the bath and finish room sink back to back. Also based on some comments I am considering making the assembly table with access to the center with removable panels. Thoughts?


Also...........her is a novice creeker question.........when do I start a new thread or do I just keep adding to this one??

[Frank Pellow]

I like the new washroom location with the back to back sinks, I like the loft, and I like the removeable panels in the assembly table.

Will you have both inside and outside access to the loft?

[Jim Becker]

I think the move of the WC was a good idea, especially from the plumbing perspective. You may want to think a little more about your bandsaw placement, especially if you are going to work with one of the larger units...it's a very versatile tool and you may find yourself using it more often if you make its placement convenient...and have the space to accommodate infeed and outfeed support for it, too. You might also consider swapping the shaper position and the jointer positions...I know I bounce between the jointer and the table saw A LOT...

I like the large loft and think you'll find it very handy for a whole lot of things over and above lumber storage, including organization of templates, prototypes, etc.

[Larry Browning]

Gary,
This is looking better!
How about adding a 2nd door to the bathroom into the finishing room? You might be able to eliminate the sink in the finish room that way and also not have to go out of the finish room to "use the facilities" while in the finish room. Also, I have found that a counter top next to the sink is very handy.

I really like the loft storage, but how would you access it? Ladder? stairs?

[Gary Stallings]

Right now my best thoughts are access by way of stairs to the loft on the outside gable end of the building and ladder access probably near the lumber rack from inside.

[Gary Stallings]

You may want to think a little more about your bandsaw placement, especially if you are going to work with one of the larger units...it's a very versatile tool and you may find yourself using it more often if you make its placement convenient.

Jim....a bandsaw has always been on my list of tools to get but has never made it too the top.......I've always found a work-around (not very effectively sometimes I might add) I used them years ago but not much at all lately so I'm not even sure of their complete versatillity. Before I mainly used them for cutting shapes, curves etc. on not-so-large peices of wood......I'm guessing you use it much more often and on larger pieces?

[Andy Hoyt]

I'd check with your building department. Code may well mandate two egress opportunities for the loft area - even though it's labeled storage.

[Steve Ash]

Well, there seems to be no shortage of new ideas around here!

Kind of reminds me of this thread....ask a creeker for advice and you'll get lots of input.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=27588

also I agree with Kelly, I'd still have the table saw positioned in front of the big door....my .02

[Don Baer]

I'm with Jim on moving the Band saw. I've only had mine a few months and find myself using it for quite a few things. I cut a 28" table top on mine as well as some 25" pedestal table legs and found that I needed some free space on all three of the open side of the Band saw.

[Frank Pellow]

Right now my best thoughts are access by way of stairs to the loft on the outside gable end of the building and ladder access probably near the lumber rack from inside.
Gary, how much interior height will their be in the loft (both at the sides and at the peak)?

[Frank Pellow]

I expect that, when you get a bandsaw, you will want it to be on a mobile base (mine came with a mobile base). If the saw is mobile, I think that it's position is perfect.

[Jim Becker]

(RE: Band Saw) Before I mainly used them for cutting shapes, curves etc. on not-so-large peices of wood......I'm guessing you use it much more often and on larger pieces?

I'm using it more and more all the time. Many folks are even using it for ripping solid stock. It's easy to think about the band saw relative to curved cuts, but it's a wonderful machine for straight ones, too. Oh...and resawing material is a wonderful thing and a great way to preserve value in figured stock, rather than putting it on the garden path as "excretment from the planer".

[Larry Browning]

Also...........her is a novice creeker question.........when do I start a new thread or do I just keep adding to this one??

My opinion on this is that you should just keep adding to this one. I don't think there is a limit to the number of posts in a thread. Anyone that contributes to a post can automatically subscribe to it, so it makes it easy to see when new stuff is added to the thread. Also, when others search and read these posts, having everything in one thread is easier to follow. I found that to be true with the one I started on shop layout. It is really amazing to find out how much these threads are read by others.