Dev Emch
03-08-2006, 9:06 PM
I have finally gotten around to taking some photos. This kitchen project is a very basic design using simple motifs and light colored woods. The door profiles are straight forward and are based more on your arts and crafts movement then current motifs. This was done to move away from the complex profiles which have dominated the home depot world of late. Raised panels and tombstone doors are cool and look great but when everybody on the block has them and they are the standard fare at home depot and lowes, they tend to loose any uniqueness.
This first series of photographs shows the space into which the kitchen will go. As you can see, the floor is tile and the applicance(s) are modest but top end. That is a 30 inch Wolf range you see in the photo. Not bad for a single guy! I am still abusing a GE electic cook top made in China. Some day I will get me one of these wolf thingies!:D
These cabinets are made from maple and baltic birch. No interior veneer work this time around. This actually made things harder as the veneer functions as a backer board when doing some critical cuts. Without it, you need to change some operations and tape up all critical joints done by routers and shapers, etc.
The standard base box is numbered by the letter B followed by the final face frame width followed by the ID number of the cabinet. For example, the first two to be completed will be B-36-1 and B-36-2. These are different in that they have face frames on both sides. One holds doors and drawers while the other is a solid panel frame visable from the rear. I dont just slap a face panel onto the plywood to dress up an exposed end.
The final photos in this series show the end panels for these two cabinets getting the face frame tenon machined. I use a single cutter and run both sides at the same time in two different operations. I could use two cutters separated by a spacer but in this case, your tenon would most likely not be centered on the vertical sides, etc. of your cabinet boxes. Using a caliper, measure the thickness your box stock. Then substract the thickness of your tenon and divide the remainder by two. I then set my DRO on the shaper to zero after raising the cutter to kiss the bottom of the board going through. Then raise the cutter by the amount you calculated and lock it down. Do a test cut and adjust the process as needed.
In the final photos, you will notice that the edges of these cabinet sides are taped with blue painter's tape. Baltic birch is tricky and this is done to reduce or mitigate blow out thus leaving you with a crisp shoulder for your face frames. Once I have the shaper dialed in for this process, I try to run all the cabinet parts through to guarenttee me a consistent face frame tenon. Later on, you will see the groover operations done on the face frame stock.
These side panels have face frame tenons on both vertical sides. The top edge is mitred for the mitre joint on top. The two horizontal dados are to recieve the floor and the drawer shield. I use drawer shields to help add strength and reduce the ability of mice to work into the kitchen utensils drawers. A feature that marks this work as custom.
The two vertical dados are there to accept the shelf supports. In this case, the owner did not want the row of holes which support the shelf pins. Rather, he opted for the industrial look by going with a brass colored metal shelf support strip. I was not sure about this but after seeing how it looks all nicely tucked into that dado, I have to say it looks mighty nice.
More photos will be posted as they evolve on this project. So stay tuned. Should look pretty nice when done.
<panel and shaper photos will be edited later tonight>
This first series of photographs shows the space into which the kitchen will go. As you can see, the floor is tile and the applicance(s) are modest but top end. That is a 30 inch Wolf range you see in the photo. Not bad for a single guy! I am still abusing a GE electic cook top made in China. Some day I will get me one of these wolf thingies!:D
These cabinets are made from maple and baltic birch. No interior veneer work this time around. This actually made things harder as the veneer functions as a backer board when doing some critical cuts. Without it, you need to change some operations and tape up all critical joints done by routers and shapers, etc.
The standard base box is numbered by the letter B followed by the final face frame width followed by the ID number of the cabinet. For example, the first two to be completed will be B-36-1 and B-36-2. These are different in that they have face frames on both sides. One holds doors and drawers while the other is a solid panel frame visable from the rear. I dont just slap a face panel onto the plywood to dress up an exposed end.
The final photos in this series show the end panels for these two cabinets getting the face frame tenon machined. I use a single cutter and run both sides at the same time in two different operations. I could use two cutters separated by a spacer but in this case, your tenon would most likely not be centered on the vertical sides, etc. of your cabinet boxes. Using a caliper, measure the thickness your box stock. Then substract the thickness of your tenon and divide the remainder by two. I then set my DRO on the shaper to zero after raising the cutter to kiss the bottom of the board going through. Then raise the cutter by the amount you calculated and lock it down. Do a test cut and adjust the process as needed.
In the final photos, you will notice that the edges of these cabinet sides are taped with blue painter's tape. Baltic birch is tricky and this is done to reduce or mitigate blow out thus leaving you with a crisp shoulder for your face frames. Once I have the shaper dialed in for this process, I try to run all the cabinet parts through to guarenttee me a consistent face frame tenon. Later on, you will see the groover operations done on the face frame stock.
These side panels have face frame tenons on both vertical sides. The top edge is mitred for the mitre joint on top. The two horizontal dados are to recieve the floor and the drawer shield. I use drawer shields to help add strength and reduce the ability of mice to work into the kitchen utensils drawers. A feature that marks this work as custom.
The two vertical dados are there to accept the shelf supports. In this case, the owner did not want the row of holes which support the shelf pins. Rather, he opted for the industrial look by going with a brass colored metal shelf support strip. I was not sure about this but after seeing how it looks all nicely tucked into that dado, I have to say it looks mighty nice.
More photos will be posted as they evolve on this project. So stay tuned. Should look pretty nice when done.
<panel and shaper photos will be edited later tonight>