Drawer slide gun

[Steve Clardy]

These drawer slide install guns are really nice. Even if you only have a few slides to install, they are worth every penny spent. I think this gun cost me around $8.00 a couple of years ago. My slide supplier carries them. Most all slide manufacturers provide them for their slides now.
Just lock in, clamp on face, and install the screws.
On this low budget cab job I use the fulterer 75lb. slides that have the little whammer jammer to adjust the slight slop out of the drawer. Seems like you always get them a little to snug or a little too loose. This adjustor takes care of the looseness. Steve

[Bobby Hatfield]

These drawer slide install guns are really nice. Even if you only have a few slides to install, they are worth every penny spent. I think this gun cost me around $8.00 a couple of years ago. My slide supplier carries them. Most all slide manufacturers provide them for their slides now.
Just lock in, clamp on face, and install the screws.
On this low budget cab job I use the fulterer 75lb. slides that have the little whammer jammer to adjust the slight slop out of the drawer. Seems like you always get them a little to snug or a little too loose. This adjustor takes care of the looseness. Steve

Have been thinkin about one of them new guns, next cab job may find me using one.
Steve do you make many slide out shelves behind doors on face frame cabs ? My hinge dealer saved my bacon on last job with Blum hinge and plate combo that really moves the door out of the way and the plate mounts on the face frame. Only needed a few for the pantry because I had talked the owner into using a door for drawer front on lower drawer that would cover both drawers, the top drawer could be pulled out after the door was pulled open along with lower drawer. I'm trying to convince LOML we don't need shelves in any of our new lower cabinets, just drawers.

[Todd Burch]

I'm cheatin' too. I premounted these TANDEM slides with the case lying on its side, using a scrap of 1/2" ply to register the height consistently. Cost? HAR HAR HAR!!! Do the tops ones first, then the next lower, etc...

[Christian Aufreiter]

Hi Todd,

do you use a jig or special template for drilling the holes in the drawers?
Do you drill them with a drill press?

Thanks!

Christian

[Mike Evertsen]

Have been thinkin about one of them new guns, next cab job may find me using one.
Steve do you make many slide out shelves behind doors on face frame cabs ? My hinge dealer saved my bacon on last job with Blum hinge and plate combo that really moves the door out of the way and the plate mounts on the face frame. Only needed a few for the pantry because I had talked the owner into using a door for drawer front on lower drawer that would cover both drawers, the top drawer could be pulled out after the door was pulled open along with lower drawer. I'm trying to convince LOML we don't need shelves in any of our new lower cabinets, just drawers.


I in the planning stages of new kitchen cabinets I agree with you the lowers don't need shelves I plan on putting in rollouts,,every thing I need is in the back of that shelf in the base cabinet,,,,,

[Todd Burch]

Christian, yes, I bought the BLUM template & jig tools (stop collar, bushing, drill bits, etc.) for installing these. This is my first time for these slides. So far, everyone that has seen them likes them a lot. Very smooth sliding, and in the last inch or so, they pull in tight by themselves.

[Steve Clardy]

Have been thinkin about one of them new guns, next cab job may find me using one.
Steve do you make many slide out shelves behind doors on face frame cabs ? My hinge dealer saved my bacon on last job with Blum hinge and plate combo that really moves the door out of the way and the plate mounts on the face frame. Only needed a few for the pantry because I had talked the owner into using a door for drawer front on lower drawer that would cover both drawers, the top drawer could be pulled out after the door was pulled open along with lower drawer. I'm trying to convince LOML we don't need shelves in any of our new lower cabinets, just drawers.

Yea Bobby. I've made several sets with pullout shelves, actually a drawer instead of a shelf. And mine are adjustable for heighth.
I make a wooden track system and use these same slides.
I use a piece of hardwood with dadoes in it, set one of these in each inside corner of lower cabinet. Then I make two wooden rails that fit into the dadoes, and the slides screw onto them. You can adjust these up or down in the cabinet. You can also ad more than one drawer, though there usually isn't enough room for more than three in a lower cab, just depends on how deep you make the drawers.
Really neat system. When I first had a customer wanting these adjustable, I checked the sources and found a system made for this, but it was $35.00 per opening, and only one drawer. Way too much money for low to medium end cabinets. So I devised this wooden track system. Do not have any pics on these though, but if you want will try to get some. Steve

[Todd Burch]

Yes, Steve, please show a set of pictures of the way you do your adjustable drawers/shelves. I for one would like to see them. Sounds like a great idea. Todd.

[Christian Aufreiter]

Christian, yes, I bought the BLUM template & jig tools (stop collar, bushing, drill bits, etc.) for installing these. This is my first time for these slides. So far, everyone that has seen them likes them a lot. Very smooth sliding, and in the last inch or so, they pull in tight by themselves.

Thanks, Todd!
I have some cabinets with Blum Tandem slides and like them a lot, too. But I've never installed them myself so far.

Regards,

Christian

[Richard McComas]

Yea Bobby. I've made several sets with pullout shelves, actually a drawer instead of a shelf. And mine are adjustable for heighth.
I make a wooden track system and use these same slides.
I use a piece of hardwood with dadoes in it, set one of these in each inside corner of lower cabinet. Then I make two wooden rails that fit into the dadoes, and the slides screw onto them. You can adjust these up or down in the cabinet. You can also ad more than one drawer, though there usually isn't enough room for more than three in a lower cab, just depends on how deep you make the drawers.
Really neat system. When I first had a customer wanting these adjustable, I checked the sources and found a system made for this, but it was $35.00 per opening, and only one drawer. Way too much money for low to medium end cabinets. So I devised this wooden track system. Do not have any pics on these though, but if you want will try to get some. Steve

Here's how I made my adjustable pull-out drawers in my shop cabinets. To move the drawers you just pull the slide out and move it into another notch. I'd be interested to see how you did yours Steve, please post some pictures.

<img src="http://www.fototime.com/61D13739D174774/standard.jpg" border=0>

<img src="http://www.fototime.com/4FE105EDA8EB059/standard.jpg" border=0>

<img src="http://www.fototime.com/AEF2A866AA410B7/standard.jpg" border=0>

[Bobby Hatfield]

Yea Bobby. I've made several sets with pullout shelves, actually a drawer instead of a shelf. And mine are adjustable for heighth.
I make a wooden track system and use these same slides.
I use a piece of hardwood with dadoes in it, set one of these in each inside corner of lower cabinet. Then I make two wooden rails that fit into the dadoes, and the slides screw onto them. You can adjust these up or down in the cabinet. You can also ad more than one drawer, though there usually isn't enough room for more than three in a lower cab, just depends on how deep you make the drawers.
Really neat system. When I first had a customer wanting these adjustable, I checked the sources and found a system made for this, but it was $35.00 per opening, and only one drawer. Way too much money for low to medium end cabinets. So I devised this wooden track system. Do not have any pics on these though, but if you want will try to get some. Steve

Yes, if you get the chance to make some pics of your adjustable wooden tracks I would appreciate it, I'm holding off LOML at arms length on her cabinets, but got to start them soon, maybe I can put her off till cool weather. I looked at a 32 ft Fifth-wheel today to winter in, where its warm in January and February so I gotta hurry.

[Steve Clardy]

Will try to post tonight, just got back from a countertop repair job. Know I got some regular photos [remember those? ha] somewhere. Will have to scan, touch up then thumbnail them. Will try that this evening sometime. Steve

[Steve Clardy]

Could not find a really good pic showing just the adjustable portion on a lower cab, but here is a pantry with the same system.
I set up some leftover scraps on the bench to give you an idea. This is basically what Richard has posted above, though His is frameless, mine is for face frame cabs.
BTW Richard, very good looking job on your shop cabinet. I have seen kitchen cabinets not up to the scale of your shop cabinet. Good work!!
What I do is mill hard maple to 1/2" inch thickness, then cut into strips 1" or so wide. Before I cut into strips, I dado the grooves on the table saw using a finger joint setup I made on a miter gauge. Then I rip to width.
Also surface some extra maple for the runners that the slide attaches to.
Make sure you cut all the strips so they are the same on one end, so the first dado is the same on all strips.
I mount one of these in each corner of cabinet, glueing and brad nailing.
Then I measure from the bottom of dado to the inside edge of the face frame, take that measurment then add 1/2". rip a piece of 1/2" maple, then cut to length. Mine are cut to a length of 23".
The reason you add 1/2" is for the hinge clearance, if you use cup hinges. I use salice cup hinges, so the 1/2" is so the drawer box will clear the hinge.
Also keep in mind that with face frame cabinets, these measurments inside the frame vary from cabinet to cabinet, due to the width of the face frame stiles, or at least mine do. ha
Looking at mine, it is kind of reversed from Richards cabinet. And also there is no cutting out the tenon on the strips, they just sit into the dados.
Also keep in mind that if you make big drawers, for maybe pots and pans, you need to add to the thickness of the wood pieces, and also make bigger dadoes.
Hope I'm making myself clear here guys. I'll stop now and post the pics. lol

[Mike Evertsen]

these adjustable drawer slides are great ideas,,,,,,,